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My Bomber is smoking motors

I was able to get my stock 35T quite hot on 2S in summer crawling but it was fine flat out; it was very slow.

I installed an Axial 27T in the Bomber on 2S and it was really fast and great fun but run so very hot. It was useless on 2S, let alone 3S.

I installed a Titan 550 21T with stock Bomber gearing on 3S with a HW WP 80 and it's been great. Motor runs cool for bashing and thus far doesn't get too hot crawling though I will grab a 2sp for the summer.

It runs fast enough to be lots of fun on 3S (~equiv to a 540 28T) and is mostly out of control now lol. Faster would be pretty silly.

I couldn't be happier with this cheap setup and replaced the sensored brushless system in my sons SCX10 for this exact setup.
 
Yo - CoolRunning - what gear ratio are ya runnin' with that?

64t spur\ 12t pinion?
 
Yeah 12/64. I haven't got it over 54 degrees C as yet but the 2sp should keep temps nicely in check for the hot weather (I have about 5 months of cold ahead so I don't need to worry for a while).
 
I just wanted to update this thread re: the HW WP 80'(1080) ESC + Titan 21T 550 combo.

As planned I ended up installing 2 speeds (fantastic upgrades) with my Bomber and SCX10.1 in foresight for extended slow crawling (as I wanted to keep the good wheelspeed) and ran stock 12/64 and even 26/80 gearing respectively. The SCX10 was as quick as a 3150kv Yeti on 2S when running 3S and was honestly too fast. It was out of control but a lot of fun. It never got hot being thrashed or crawled in the appropriate gear. It roared past the Bomber so I've pulled it down to 23/80 and it's still visibly faster! Lol

Both motors have been submerged many times now. Driving around in creeks is a lot of fun. I've done nothing more than run contact cleaner through them with some oil on the end of shafts afterwards. They often spend entire batteries being caned around at max speed.

I'd hazard 80 hours of driving like this on 3S. Motors show no signs of power loss or reduced speed. My son kept driving my Bomber underwater in a murky hole where it's was spitting dirty water everywhere and eventually the motor started cutting out as he clogged it up. Contact cleaner and it was screaming around rock bouncing like new once again.

Just wanted to let anyone know that there is still plenty of life left in the humble brushed system still. Don't let the horror stories of heat problems and unreliability make you feel you need to reach top shelf if you're not planning to build a big dollar speed demon. These are not slow trucks but handle a mix of bashing and crawling and bouncing and trailing without sweat. They crawl great and stay cool too.

The 2 speeds added the cherry on top and made the drag brakes fantastic. Highly recommended IMO. I'm extremely happy with these affordable, easily sourceable/replaceable setups. My son and I have had an absolute ball with zero worries/issues.
 
Bored that 3S 2200 battery last 5-10minutes (full power bashing) - Is that normal with others?? The motor is "pretty" hot after couple minutes...

The setup now:
Stock gearing (12/64)
Castle Mamba Max Pro
Brushed Titan 12T (Axial 27T too slow for bashing, maybe good for crawling)
Beeftubes and ~80g on each tyre

I'm planning to use brushed motors as I live in a place where the sun is not familiar to the people - more like wet, damp and snow...

Please give me tips how to:
How can I increase the drive time?
What motor would be best to crawling?
 
Bored that 3S 2200 battery last 5-10minutes (full power bashing) - Is that normal with others?? The motor is "pretty" hot after couple minutes...

The setup now:
Stock gearing (12/64)
Castle Mamba Max Pro
Brushed Titan 12T (Axial 27T too slow for bashing, maybe good for crawling)
Beeftubes and ~80g on each tyre

I'm planning to use brushed motors as I live in a place where the sun is not familiar to the people - more like wet, damp and snow...

Please give me tips how to:
How can I increase the drive time?
What motor would be best to crawling?

Simple just increase your LiHV battery to 5000mAH, 40c and youre good to have at least 1 hour :ror:
 
Don't forget robinson racing also makes 9t pinion. Every tooth helps and also your truck should free roll without the motor installed.
 
Are you guys running the reverse rotation 21t? I ran one in my bomber and lasted all of 4 packs before a brush broke off.

I’m pretty mine is the standard rotation, but you could flip the diff gears if it’s wrong. I’ve had great luck with my 21T, numerous 3S packs of bashing and crawling. Works well with the stock ESC.
 
Not sure what is the hype about brushed motors. Two thoughts:
1) If you take motor pinion off and rotate the wheel, it should continue to spin freely and come to a stop in 2 to 3 seconds, otherwise you have a bind in the drive train
2) For those using brushed motors, higher turns will be better at producing less heat. For the same motor current, torque is proportional to the amperage. For a bomber that has its wheel stuck and requires a 27T motor to spin, let's assume the current hit 20A. Now with 55T motor, to make the wheel start to spin, you merely need 10A. A brushless motor with similar KV will always produce much much less heat at the same load.
 
I have a bomber and let a buddy drive mine so he bought one right after. His was brand new and on his first 2s 20c pack the motor caught fire of slow driving in a smooth parking lot. He got a warranty motor and it is working like new. Only posted to show another person had the issue and it was 100% stock on a low power battery.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
 
Just burnt out a stock 35T motor three weeks after I bought it. Motor started smoking and is toast now. Is this a warranty claim that will be covered by Axial?

Do I just fill out a warranty claim repair request form and send it to Axial/Horizon?
 
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