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My Bomber is smoking motors

Anyone running a 12T 550 Traxxas motor in there bomber? I'm using a bomber trans in a custom frame for on road use. Anyone got an idea on the pinion size i should run with the stock 64 tooth spur?
 
I'm not sure on pinion size. Are you still running 2.2 tires? got any pics of you build? curiosity. the Monster trucks I ran with a 12t on 2.8 tires used a 20t pinion.
 
Anyone running a 12T 550 Traxxas motor in there bomber? I'm using a bomber trans in a custom frame for on road use. Anyone got an idea on the pinion size i should run with the stock 64 tooth spur?
I'd start around 12-13. Check temps. Don't exceed 160-175.

Sent from a device in my hand that is smarter than me, and I don't know WTF I'm doing.
 
I had the same problem.. stock 35T motor with spur and pinion from scx10 deadbolt (56/13). It's fast and fun but it build up a lot of heat and eventually burnt out my stock motor.
And i changed to novac tera crawl 20T, but this time i changed the spur and pinion to 64/10, bavel gear 43/13. I took bashing and some crawling about 15 minutes, and it burnt out to..
Battery is 3s 5000mah.
Now i dont know which T motor i could use for longer bashing and crawling..


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if you are gonna bash with it, best invest in a brushless esc/motor...you will never be happy or satisfied with brushed...
 
Maybe this coud be a good motor for you?
It is a Holmes product, and 550 instead of the 540 you burned.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Holmes-Hobb...423606?hash=item5b24fa8c36:g:lasAAOSwrnNXP3K7
What's the difference 550 and 540?? Is it just the size or...??
if you are gonna bash with it, best invest in a brushless esc/motor...you will never be happy or satisfied with brushed...
Sensored or less??
I'm thinking about brushless to, but if i dont get the right gearing setting, i think i stay on brushed.. i dont wanna burnt out that expensive motor so quickly [emoji19]

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A 550 can is longer, you can go to Holmes Hobbies site and read about the size and weight comparison - it will fit in a Bomber.

550 is what size the extremely popular Traxxas Titan brushed motors are., and they use the same mounting bolt spacing as a 540 can does.

For the sensored vs sensorless question - sensored is the way to go for a Bomber, definitely.

Basically, the Axial Yeti and SCORE Yeti-based Trophy Truck are the only vehicles I MIGHT run a sensorless in, and even then my preference would be sensored.

For a Bomber, the 540 can size in a good quality sensored brushless is the best way to go, generally speaking.

Stay in the 2200-3500kv range - Holmes Puller Pro and Redline Roc412 are the best.

A 3500kv using 3S will be very fast and torquey.
 
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A 550 can is longer, you can go to Holmes Hobbies site and read about the size and weight comparison - it will fit in a Bomber.

550 is what size the extremely popular Traxxas Titan brushed motors are., and they use the same mounting bolt spacing as a 540 can does.

For the sensored vs sensorless question - sensored is the way to go for a Bomber, definitely.

Basically, the Axial Yeti and SCORE Yeti-based Trophy Truck are the only vehicles I MIGHT run a sensorless in, and even then my preference would be sensored.

For a Bomber, the 540 can size in a good quality sensored brushless is the best way to go, generally speaking.

Stay in the 2200-3500kv range - Holmes Puller Pro and Redline Roc412 are the best.

A 3500kv using 3S will be very fast and torquey.

Get a temp gun and check temps regularly so you don't burn them up.

Thanksfor replying guys...
Im gonna go with roc 412 and castle mmp... and buy temp gun...
I'm still searching about u4rc setup, i hope i can find something that related to my issued...

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Thanksfor replying guys...
Im gonna go with roc 412 and castle mmp... and buy temp gun...
I'm still searching about u4rc setup, i hope i can find something that related to my issued...
Spend a little more and get the Castle MMX ESC! The MMX has an auxiliary wire that lets you toggle the drag brake on and off (among other things). You can go fast and jump without having the drag brake interfere and then you can turn it on to crawl.
 
I had same problem...
I have now a HH 550 21t and it is fine for me...
Not so warm after 2 hours bashing and crawling
Here is a small video, Vmax is good for me, for what i do ;-)

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/WZkdKQFULZ4" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
 
OK so bought a Bomber on the 23rd of last month I believe and smoked the motor today. It is all stock minus ssd titanium steering links. Ifor I put in a 27t hh trail master with a 10t pinion will that be okay. The stock motor still works but it was smoking good.
 
My Traxxas 21T motor is still going strong, probably 20 packs of 3S through it with runtimes of over 2 hours each. I am running a 10T pinion, Axial 2 speed kit with the higher top gear, and 43/13 gears in both axles. Low speed control is excellent, top speed is fast enough to bash. If the 21T motor burned out tomorrow I wouldn't bother looking at anything else.
 
If you have dropped the gearing lower and are still having heat problems I would highly recommend pulling your transmission and axles apart and check for seized or gritty feeling bearings.
Also check for sufficient grease in the gears, many RTR's came with little to no grease at all!


Brushless tip: The Bomber does very well with a 550 can sensored motor. A bit more torque, More mass to help dissipate heat, and much more efficient operation vs brushed.

I currently run a Pro4HD 3500KV/RX8 combo on 3S in mine and it barely gets warm even when beating the ever loving piss out of it.
Gearing: 12/64 with UD axle gears. (Under drive gears in the axle open up your useful effective gearing range a bit as well, and mesh better than any of the other HD gear options. Highly recommended.)

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My brother has a bomber kit. When he first got it he was running a 45t motor with stock gearing on 2s and the motor would start smoking when crawling. He upgraded to a 2-speed trans and 27t motor. He only crawls in low gear and the motor still gets smoking hot at times. Comparatively, I have a wraith with 55t motor stock gearing and it stays ice cold on 2s, barely warm on 3s and I am probably more abusive than he is. running same exact trail. Why is the bomber having problems and the wraith is not?
 
Is his rig heavier than yours?
Try removing the motor from the truck, then rolling it back and forward with the trans still connected and make sure it rolls freely and with no binding.
If he's smoking motors and he's not got any binding anywhere, he needs to gear down.
 
I am about to smoke my motor. it's whatever comes in the rtr. when crawling, applying torque and getting through technical stuff, it will smoke pretty predictably. If I am trail driving or in a faster-pace more wide open area it's all good. but if the tires get spinning and i'm real technical crawling I need to watch it that I don't overheat the thing.

3s battery stock rtr motor. It's on the way out though. I'm thinking 3500kv brushless with some fancy esc. Or maybe 2700kv. Thoughts? Anything to watch out for that I'm not gonna see when I'm researching this? Mostly crawling. Has to be solid crawler, but go fast once in a while is fun. Dual purpose kinda deal.
 
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I am about to smoke my motor. it's whatever comes in the rtr. when crawling, applying torque and getting through technical stuff, it will smoke pretty predictably. If I am trail driving or in a faster-pace more wide open area it's all good. but if the tires get spinning and i'm real technical crawling I need to watch it that I don't overheat the thing.

3s battery stock rtr motor. It's on the way out though. I'm thinking 3500kv brushless with some fancy esc. Or maybe 2700kv. Thoughts? Anything to watch out for that I'm not gonna see when I'm researching this? Mostly crawling. Has to be solid crawler, but go fast once in a while is fun. Dual purpose kinda deal.

That's exactly whats happening with my brother's rig. He started with a 45t and now he has a 27t geared lower. And hes only running 2s. My Wraith on 3s runs almost cold. One thing we were discussing is that when he built the truck, from the beginning, his forward/reverse was opposite. Switched it on the controller an now the direction is OK, but it is faster in reverse. everything he tried with the electronics did not fix the issue. Is it possible this could be related?

He broke an axle the other day and is going to flip the ring gears in the diffs to try to fix this problem. Ill report back on whether or not it makes a difference.
 
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