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Low CG AX10 Winter Project (Need Advice PLS)

TheHeadHunter

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Joined
Jan 17, 2008
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Done nothing much but find the direction I want to go in by reading up a lot of great stuff here this summer (literally).

Finally I attempt an AX10 build out of my RTR purchased 1 month before the ARTR came out:-( ...but hey at least I got one of the last HPI Bugs to cruise in style 8).


What I want to attempt here is a build low in CG, and also a well balanced all around rig (and I need lots of trial and error and help to get there).

Being inspired by some great chassis builders; Bender,Franky Rizzo, TCS and many others here "thumbsup" I have decided to start from the chassis.

Warning: This is kind of like a mock up of what I had imagined would work and not the final chassis design or overall stage of the rig!

Chassis>>>>>testing TVP out of 2mm aluminum (braced)
Axles/Tranny> RTR AX10 (plastic links is perfect for the mockup IMO)
Shocks>>>>> HB
ESC>>>>>>>>Sidewinder
Motor>>>>>>>Brushless 1000KV Outrunner
Battery>>>>>>1500mAh 11.1V
Tires>>>>>>>>Tamiya CR-01

Here are a few photos before some questions"thumbsup"







the chassis is longer at the bottom than the stock one but I'm using the stock skid, so the two screws in the middle are holding the skid which marks also the original bottom of chasis length









Wheelbase is a tad long at 13.5 which brings me to my next questions:

1.Should and can I buy shorter links for the AX10 or are for example some aftermarket TLT links shorter by about 13mm? I would rather compromise link lengh over chassis length...

2.Is the belly too low? Would bent links and taller tires get it just up there?

3.Anything else that doesnt look right?

This rig most probably wont be entering any local Japanese comps (if there will be any out there ever).
But I want to make it work either way...


Finally ...This is not a "So what do you think?" thread but if you feel to ,go ahead!:)
 
the bent links are gonna push your wheel base out even more..... so you gotta find out what you can do for a skidplate, that or move your links to the out side and get a longer screw to go through the links and the plate.

i would get more ground clearance i lot of times when i set up a comp a lot of it is about ground clearance.

i would invest in some steering knuckles c hubs and a aluminum steering set up. that would run you about $80? and would greatly improve steering.
 
move your links to the out side and get a longer screw to go through the links and the plate.
Will try that tomorrow "thumbsup"


i would get more ground clearance i lot of times when i set up a comp a lot of it is about ground clearance.
I was going to try the bent links to add some ground clearance so I was hoping there are shorter bent links out there (I'm limited with tools so I cant see myself shortening stock size links enough to save $20 or so)
i would invest in some steering knuckles c hubs and a aluminum steering set up. that would run you about $80? and would greatly improve steering.

This will be my final step after I get all the balance tuned up nicely!

Thanks Wrangler"thumbsup"
 
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Looks good so far. I highly suggest moving your upper link mount on the chassis side much closer (i.e. lower) to the lower link mount on the chassis side, espcially in the rear. This will help the anti-squat properties of the chassis. I also think you should move your battery to over the front axle instead of the rear. You could purchase a servo/battery plate, but it seems you have the ability to make on from scratch.

These are the two things that IMO would make a huge impact on the performance of your rig.
 
all you would need to shorten the links would be a tubing cutter and a 3mm tap. Both of which should be easy and cheap to get. That way you can use the links you want to and just trim them a little at the chassis side to get the wb you are wanting."thumbsup" And to be honest I would shoten the front links more than the rear. Basiclly give yourself a 60- 40 split. That will put the chassis weight up front more and will help with the steep climbs. Oh and trim the lower part of the body up some so it won't drag on the rocks."thumbsup"
 
your shock angle looks kinda funky. I've never ran mine at such an angle, so I don't know how it works. I do know that the position of the shock mounts (up top) seems to be very important for my rig. That's my CDW chassis though.
 
it is a good start for sure. if you can make your shocks longer through adjustment, that will get your belly up and shorten your wheelbase some. I would get the belly up regardless. You can go up to about 3" on the skid and still have a really good CG.

I suggest all thread and aluminum tubing for making links. It's cheap and you can make them any length or bend you want. 4mm is perfect.

besides that... drive and adjust for effect"thumbsup"
 
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