Looking for some advice on my Bomber setup.

[smc-93]

I'll try to keep the question simple. I can provide more information if need be. I want to be able to drive this like a U4, capable of crawling/climbing but with enough speed and stability to power over obstacles.

Out of curiosity, I dropped a 3s in and it lifts the inside rear tire on sharp turns. I'm pretty confident this is due to the rear sway bar or the springs now allowing the rear axle to articulate completely, allowing the rolling chassis to lift a tire. I'm afraid if I remove the sway bar it'll just fall over in the corners.

I also want to add, if there's no simple answer/solution that's fine. I don't plan to run on 3s but I'm worried it might be lifting the tire on 2s, albeit to a lesser extent.

Should I pull the rear sway bar and give it a try? Or maybe try to design/install an (in addition) front sway bar? I know HR makes a sway bar kit but I don't care for how it looks.

A quick run down of my setup;
- Stock electronics
- Traxxas 2s lipo
- Traxxas Titan 21t
- Locked UD rear, Traxxas 20M weight, stock ratio front
-Pro-line PowerStroke 100mm shocks(both slash rears if i iirc) blue over blue springs in front, yellow over green in the rear. Associated oil, 20 front, 30 rear
-PB 2.2 growlers with CI dual stage, front and rear (med and firm outer, respectively)
- RC4WD 2.2 Raceline Monster wheels
- Axial rear Bomber sway bar

Edit: corrected shock information
Sent from my LM-V600 using Tapatalk

 

[Goos3]

Your sway bar helps but I'm pretty sure it'll be your shock oil/ spring rate being too low/light for going that fast. Think like when you launch into a turn, where does all the weight of the vehicle go? To the suspension/ tires and if the springs and oil are too light it will cause body roll like that. Idk the weight difference between the bomber/slash but I'd say the bomber was a bit chunkier even if the only real difference was the full size 2.2's vs 2.2/3.0 wheel tire combos. I would say play with your spring weights/ shock oil first and sway bar second, only change one thing at a time so you can keep up with what helps/ hurts performance.

 

[Goos3]

Let me ask you this, are you crawling or bashing(ish) with the bomber? A sway bar is beneficial for bashing type driving but detrimental for crawling. Probably could have led with that one, regardless your body roll is the chassis telling you that you're blowing through your shock travel too quickly.

 

[smc-93]

Let me ask you this, are you crawling or bashing(ish) with the bomber? A sway bar is beneficial for bashing type driving but detrimental for crawling. Probably could have led with that one, regardless your body roll is the chassis telling you that you're blowing through your shock travel too quickly.

Yeah I forgot to add that.
A little bit of both, kind of an off-road racing, U4 type of build. Crawling/climbing will be the primary function but I want it to remain stable at 10 or so mph. My bomber is ~7-8 pounds BTW.

I was thinking about my shock oils as well (associated, 30 rear, 20 front) I tend to go lighter for speed builds with the thought that the damping will respond quicker to uneven terrain. And I like heavier on my crawlers because, to me, it feels like the axles are more controlled under the truck and feels more scale.

I have the PowerStroke spring assortment so I've go plenty of spring options but I think any stiffer would hold the chassis higher than I want and I don't have the funds for shorter shocks ATM. I'm not sure what I have for oil either

Sent from my LM-V600 using Tapatalk

 

[Goos3]

I have the PowerStroke spring assortment so I've go plenty of spring options but I think any stiffer would hold the chassis higher than I want and I don't have the funds for shorter shocks ATM. I'm not sure what I have for oil either

Sent from my LM-V600 using Tapatalk

Can't hurt to try harder springs, if height becomes and issue you can always make small brackets that bolt to the shock towers that give you more tunability and placement angles.

I tend to go lighter for speed builds with the thought that the damping will respond quicker to uneven terrain.

I'm not saying you're wrong but I think that applies to independent setups more than straight axles.

 

[smc-93]

Can't hurt to try harder springs, if height becomes and issue you can always make small brackets that bolt to the shock towers that give you more tunability and placement angles.



I'm not saying you're wrong but I think that applies to independent setups more than straight axles.

On the bench I noticed at full steering, pushing on the top of the cage, the outside front would bottom out while the rear hardly moved.

So for the time being, until I can spend some time really messing with it, I switched to harder springs in the front and softer in the rear. The rear tire lift reduced by about half.

Apparently I was just about at max extension on the front anyway even with the softest spring set (w/o battery) so I'm still happy with the stance on the harder front springs.

I may need to look into the link positions as well. I only understand the basics of link geometry so it's mostly trial and error for me at the moment. I might try increasing anti-squat in the front and reducing it or setting it neutral in the rear.


Sent from my LM-V600 using Tapatalk

 

[Goos3]

so it's mostly trial and error for me at the moment.

Sent from my LM-V600 using Tapatalk

You just described life in a nutshell :lmao: good luck bud.

 

[smc-93]

You just described life in a nutshell :lmao: good luck bud.

I hate how accurate that statement is [emoji52]

Thanks for the input though. I appreciate it.

Sent from my LM-V600 using Tapatalk