jodart
Newbie
Is there any way to increase the suspension travel? Or is it pretty much at it's limit ?
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longer travel?
- Thread starter jodart
- Start date
girlcrazy_4
Newbie
Hey, I'm just "ttt"ing this comment to remind me to come back and look. I'm interested in this also. 
street.terror
Quarry Creeper
what the heck do you need more travel for? the thing has something like 6" of working travel already
jodart
Newbie
There's a step in my back yard that it won't quite climb. It's close enough to making it up that I've begun to take it personal.
street.terror
Quarry Creeper
ahhhhhhh getting hung up on the center skid? or just not making it all together? you can crank the preload to raise static height but the truck becomes a bit of a pain to drive up hills and such once that is done... I just know it helps in the snow hahaha
happymachinist
Quarry Creeper
To gain more ground clearance you can do a couple things but with everything comes compromise.
First if you haven't already get yourself a set of double orange shock springs for the rear. They are the same springs the front shocks use and are stiffer. This will level out your ride height by eliminating the rear end sag that is typical with an out of the box summit. Some say you can simply switch the front and rear shock springs around, save yourself the headache don't be a cheap a$$ and get the $6 springs.
You can also mount your suspension pushrods in the inner most mounting holes to raise the ride height. This makes the summit's handling suffer more than it already does at higher speeds. It also puts more stress on your CVDs and makes them more prone to breakage, but it may work well for what you want your summit to do.
First if you haven't already get yourself a set of double orange shock springs for the rear. They are the same springs the front shocks use and are stiffer. This will level out your ride height by eliminating the rear end sag that is typical with an out of the box summit. Some say you can simply switch the front and rear shock springs around, save yourself the headache don't be a cheap a$$ and get the $6 springs.
You can also mount your suspension pushrods in the inner most mounting holes to raise the ride height. This makes the summit's handling suffer more than it already does at higher speeds. It also puts more stress on your CVDs and makes them more prone to breakage, but it may work well for what you want your summit to do.
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jodart
Newbie
I've already gotten the double orange springs, changed the rod holes, etc. It's not getting high centered, so ride hight is not the issue. I go at it at an angle, get one front wheel up, get the other front and one rear started, and she'll tip over. Like I said, close enough to tease, but not quite. I was just thinking that with a little more wheel travel, she just might make it. But as you've stated, the CVD's might be at their limit with the already long travel. I was just wondering if anyone in the crawling world had modified for longer travel.
happymachinist
Quarry Creeper
The cvds should be "ok" I'd leave em till you start breakin them all the time.
You try weighting the front wheels? I've got about 9oz on my "crawling" rims.
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You try weighting the front wheels? I've got about 9oz on my "crawling" rims.
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street.terror
Quarry Creeper
yeah you've just hit the wall that is the summit's lousy COG thats all.
xCoolHandLukex
Quarry Creeper
I messed around with some long travel ideas the CVDs start to bind and click if you go much further than stock.
jodart
Newbie
Ok I'll have to try weighted wheels. 9oz per front wheel a good place to start?
street.terror
Quarry Creeper
That sounds like a lot. I know the summit is heavy but 9oz is serious weight. I dont think Your drivetrain will be to happy about that.
Start at 6 and see what happens. For easy testing you can just strap it to the a arms or something.
Start at 6 and see what happens. For easy testing you can just strap it to the a arms or something.
happymachinist
Quarry Creeper
Yeah try 6. I have a dedicated set of crawling wheels/tires with 9oz and an overly cautious throttle finger when they're on. I have yet to break anything due to the extra weight but it is a lot. I started with no weight, and slowly added weight after HOURS of testing and stopped at 9. Most people won't need that much, and I often wonder if I REALLY do.
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summitcrawler
My vendor status has been revoked
DONT TUNE YOUR TRUCK FOR STAIRS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! you will be disappointed crawling anything else.... stairs are a killer.. and its just about wheelbase.... your going to waste your time trying to beat that stair..... yea its possible but your going to have to tune your ENTIRE truck....
and you dont need more travel.... if you think you do than your truck isnt tuned to the max.........
and you dont need more travel.... if you think you do than your truck isnt tuned to the max.........
summitcrawler
My vendor status has been revoked
i believe everyone just jumps on the band wagon with the orange springs.... i used double yellow front and rear with a lot of time adjusting the suspensioin... with 30wt oil and double yellow springs i could set my summit up to have a hair under full ground clearance and full suspension travel.... perfect control on the rocks and everything... with hardly any squat
but i have been a fan of heavy vehicles with softer suspension forever.... it just makes sense..... you need weight to take advantage of the shocks to gain grip and control the weight....
run the pushrods in the stock locations... says right in the owners manual, "for best suspension results mount in center hole" it helps if you read the manual before opperation..
at least play around with a softer setup... it honestly seems that people just get the orange springs first thing and never experiment.... try things for yourselves people!! there are a lot of variables in shocks to make them perform how you want...
and i never saw a problem with the summits center of gravity..... but then again most people tune there summits in the strangest ways............
weight in the wheels always helps though.... but that applies to anything...
but i have been a fan of heavy vehicles with softer suspension forever.... it just makes sense..... you need weight to take advantage of the shocks to gain grip and control the weight....
run the pushrods in the stock locations... says right in the owners manual, "for best suspension results mount in center hole" it helps if you read the manual before opperation..
at least play around with a softer setup... it honestly seems that people just get the orange springs first thing and never experiment.... try things for yourselves people!! there are a lot of variables in shocks to make them perform how you want...
and i never saw a problem with the summits center of gravity..... but then again most people tune there summits in the strangest ways............
weight in the wheels always helps though.... but that applies to anything...
street.terror
Quarry Creeper
I agree with this guy. My buddies summit is wound right up so it go through deep snow but i run circles around it every where else with my scx10 that is as low as I could get it. Occasionally I get high centered on something he doesn't buy for the most part it's him trying to stick with me.
happymachinist
Quarry Creeper
I've tried all yellow on my truck too...mine is too heavy due to my rear stear. I've also tried variable valve kits and different shock oil weights.
This is my current setup/ride height with all orange. It's low and heavy.
Even before the rear steer I tried all yellows, I traded them out from my other summit. I got hung up more than the guy driving my other summit with all orange. But like you said you gotta test stuff yourself, you can't take suspension setup advice from joe blow halfway across the country/world. Everyone's driving style, preference and environment differs.
I personally run my pushrods in the center recomended hole, I have read my manual. I was just adding that as an option.
Lastly I agree, forget stairs. Stairs are for people to climb, not RCs, go find some rocks or any of natures other obstacles. I wanted to say it from the get go, but as a forum were here to help.
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This is my current setup/ride height with all orange. It's low and heavy.
Even before the rear steer I tried all yellows, I traded them out from my other summit. I got hung up more than the guy driving my other summit with all orange. But like you said you gotta test stuff yourself, you can't take suspension setup advice from joe blow halfway across the country/world. Everyone's driving style, preference and environment differs.
I personally run my pushrods in the center recomended hole, I have read my manual. I was just adding that as an option.
Lastly I agree, forget stairs. Stairs are for people to climb, not RCs, go find some rocks or any of natures other obstacles. I wanted to say it from the get go, but as a forum were here to help.
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jodart
Newbie
I know the stair is not a practical obstical, but like I said, it just got personal. Just curious, has antone tried the rear suspension arms in front? Fipped over to increase the wheel base? Will they fit? I might just have to go and see.
Well I just went and pulled a rear lower arm and held it up to the front, looks like it will work, I see no reason why it wouldn't. I'll pick up a set of rear arms from my LHS and give it a try. I'll re post to let you know.
Just curious, has antone tried the rear suspension arms in front? Fipped over to increase the wheel base? Will they fit? I might just have to go and see.Well I just went and pulled a rear lower arm and held it up to the front, looks like it will work, I see no reason why it wouldn't. I'll pick up a set of rear arms from my LHS and give it a try. I'll re post to let you know.
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CrawlinMike
RCC Addict
I'm interested to see how this works. And how much wheelbase will this gain exactly?
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