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Locked Up's SCX10 II Build
ill buy 2 also "thumbsup"
We have not tuned this rig at all but it's hot in Texas so we have the benefit of being able to run memory foams.
So for the fonts we will likely run memory and out back ... we will see.
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Bent trackbars ...
Would those of you interested in them want to use smaller M3 rod ends like we did?
Or would you want something that fits the larger, stock rod ends?
Would those of you interested in them want to use smaller M3 rod ends like we did?
Or would you want something that fits the larger, stock rod ends?
ScaleFreak93
RCC Addict
If the smaller M3 will hold up to as much abuse I'd prefer that personally.
I'm in for one. If these stock rod ends end up being like previous Axial rod ends, I would most definitely prefer to run something else. Revos or some good M3s would be fine with me.
Also from the scale point of view, the stock rod ends are a bit oversized.
Also from the scale point of view, the stock rod ends are a bit oversized.
The bigger stock ends might be more durable but without testing there is no way to know their merits at the moment.
I will mention, the shop H2 SCX10 trackbar has been on the same m3 rod ends for years, without issue. It weights 9lbs and we are not gentle with it.
We've trashed lots of link rod ends on it, but never the trackbar.
M3 rod ends are usually just fine, unless you start putting them on multiple angles. So as long as the trackbar threaded ends are co-linear, they hold up well.
What we will do is offer one that is a direct replacement and accepts the M4 rod ends ... and another that is for builders.
We have a planned company break starting today and ending Friday. So it will be next week before we can really tackle this.... but anyone in a rush can grab some of the threaded bars we have and bend their own.
Bending is not all that complicated, but like I said, keep the ends co-linear so that the rods ends are in a 90* push/pull without side loading.
"thumbsup"
I will mention, the shop H2 SCX10 trackbar has been on the same m3 rod ends for years, without issue. It weights 9lbs and we are not gentle with it.
We've trashed lots of link rod ends on it, but never the trackbar.
M3 rod ends are usually just fine, unless you start putting them on multiple angles. So as long as the trackbar threaded ends are co-linear, they hold up well.
What we will do is offer one that is a direct replacement and accepts the M4 rod ends ... and another that is for builders.
We have a planned company break starting today and ending Friday. So it will be next week before we can really tackle this.... but anyone in a rush can grab some of the threaded bars we have and bend their own.
Bending is not all that complicated, but like I said, keep the ends co-linear so that the rods ends are in a 90* push/pull without side loading.
"thumbsup"
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For the tie rod, we will have to make some new lengths for the masses but for the shop truck, we are using one of our 106mm Links, 4mm spacers and a 1mm spacer. This would all vary depending on the rod ends you use.
At rest:
Full compression:
Full clock turn:
At full clock turn, the tie rod will lightly touch the diff cover, but it is still reaching full clock as far as we can tell. To get more out of it we will look at the original SCX10 offset rod ends, if needed.
"thumbsup"
At rest:
Full compression:
Full clock turn:
At full clock turn, the tie rod will lightly touch the diff cover, but it is still reaching full clock as far as we can tell. To get more out of it we will look at the original SCX10 offset rod ends, if needed.
"thumbsup"
SAL45
Quarry Creeper
Nice job Patrick! Looks like I need to buy a new rig now after seeing this! LOL
twisted concept
Quarry Creeper
True! "thumbsup"
NismoMobber
Newbie
Put me down for a new track bar as well. This thing is awesome so far but it does bug me that it doesn't cycle properly. Correct geometry is one thing that sold me on this kit. So I don't really care what ends or size you make it in, as long as it has correct geometry.
Also did end up using the axial aluminum servo horn? I thought it didn't clear. I blew out the one from the kit today. Used the stock one from my 7950 instead and it seems solid so far but I want to upgrade it to a metal one..
Also did end up using the axial aluminum servo horn? I thought it didn't clear. I blew out the one from the kit today. Used the stock one from my 7950 instead and it seems solid so far but I want to upgrade it to a metal one..
AngelowDoom
Rock Crawler
The kings is pretty bad shock, so if you want to downgrade your rig, go ahead. dont think the higher ride hight would be any good.
Mine cycle just fine, but i put on bumpstops on the shocks, dont want any crazy flex.
Mine cycle just fine, but i put on bumpstops on the shocks, dont want any crazy flex.
gbean
RCC Addict
Just a reminder that under normal circumstances trailing & scaling you'll never fully compress both shocks unless you're hitting huge jumps... But that is for other rc rigs...
Sent from my SPH-L720 using Tapatalk
Sent from my SPH-L720 using Tapatalk
Correct.
Our thought is that people will end up lowering the ride height, and the extra compression may become necessary.
"thumbsup"
And we are back!
:mrgreen:
After painting the inside of the flares black, we started to scuff the outsides for paint, then we realized something: The scuffed outsides actually look a lot like the 1:1 unpainted flares.
So we deiced to just scuff them all and skip painting the outside.
"thumbsup"
:mrgreen:
After painting the inside of the flares black, we started to scuff the outsides for paint, then we realized something: The scuffed outsides actually look a lot like the 1:1 unpainted flares.
So we deiced to just scuff them all and skip painting the outside.
"thumbsup"
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