GoliathGladiator
Newbie
So my friend recently got me into scale crawling and I decided to purchase the scx10.3 RTR gladiator and the first thing I did was put a set of 2.2 SSD beadlocks on a set of RC4wd mudslinger 2 XL 2.2 (a 57” tire if it were 1:1 scale).
Needless to say, There was a lot of scrubbing[emoji23] I adjusted the shocks to the max preload and lowest mount point. Still too much scrubbing, after installing the treal shock mount brackets and putting the shocks on the lowest mount point, it was barely acceptable. Minimal scrubbing, only when completely flexed out.
At this point, the body was still sitting properly in relation to the chassis/frame and there wasn’t any significant alignment issues. But I wanted to go higher. I ordered a set of off brand/China brand 125mm shocks and here’s where the problems start.
After installing the 125mm shocks, the front axle set so far off from the rear axle that it wasn’t drivable (image you take the front axle, and shift the whole assembly to the left 1.5”). This was with the shocks at the lowest preload and at the highest possible mount point up top (so the lowest the vehicle could be with those shocks)
Playing around with it, I realized that it was the steering servo link and pan hard bar that were causing the front axle to “pull or push” the axle off sideways from the frame. So if I extend the pan hard bar and servo link, then it will fix the alignment problem?? Seems logical… I spent a whole day at the local hobby store rummaging through traxis parts bins for links that would work, and for the life of me, I could not find two that would clear and be the proper length.
My solution was to suck it up and buy a tad bit shorter and better quality shocks, I went with pro line pro scale crawler 105-110mm. And backed the eyelet mounts on the pan hard and servo link out about halfway on both ends. Doing this made them ALMOST long enough to not cause the issues stated above. But now when I turn the wheel it causes the plastic pan hard link ends to bend badly every time there is side force on the chassis, so it works properly on flat level ground… the second there is any suspension articulation, the tires don’t even turn, it just bends the end links and they eventually break.
Does anyone have a solution to this or give me any advice on how to go about finding the right length pan hard bars/servo links?
Has anyone lifted an scx10.3 to an absurd level like this before?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Needless to say, There was a lot of scrubbing[emoji23] I adjusted the shocks to the max preload and lowest mount point. Still too much scrubbing, after installing the treal shock mount brackets and putting the shocks on the lowest mount point, it was barely acceptable. Minimal scrubbing, only when completely flexed out.
At this point, the body was still sitting properly in relation to the chassis/frame and there wasn’t any significant alignment issues. But I wanted to go higher. I ordered a set of off brand/China brand 125mm shocks and here’s where the problems start.
After installing the 125mm shocks, the front axle set so far off from the rear axle that it wasn’t drivable (image you take the front axle, and shift the whole assembly to the left 1.5”). This was with the shocks at the lowest preload and at the highest possible mount point up top (so the lowest the vehicle could be with those shocks)
Playing around with it, I realized that it was the steering servo link and pan hard bar that were causing the front axle to “pull or push” the axle off sideways from the frame. So if I extend the pan hard bar and servo link, then it will fix the alignment problem?? Seems logical… I spent a whole day at the local hobby store rummaging through traxis parts bins for links that would work, and for the life of me, I could not find two that would clear and be the proper length.
My solution was to suck it up and buy a tad bit shorter and better quality shocks, I went with pro line pro scale crawler 105-110mm. And backed the eyelet mounts on the pan hard and servo link out about halfway on both ends. Doing this made them ALMOST long enough to not cause the issues stated above. But now when I turn the wheel it causes the plastic pan hard link ends to bend badly every time there is side force on the chassis, so it works properly on flat level ground… the second there is any suspension articulation, the tires don’t even turn, it just bends the end links and they eventually break.
Does anyone have a solution to this or give me any advice on how to go about finding the right length pan hard bars/servo links?
Has anyone lifted an scx10.3 to an absurd level like this before?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk