Just got this bnib LCC....love it!

[EeePee]

Search for part# LOS4116 or 4113

 

[Tib]

Ya get that pinion . I’ve been looking for a LCC since I got my LNC still haven’t found one and can barely find the parts to make a LCC so I been making most of the stuff

Keep an eye on Ebay. I have both a LCC and LNC2.0. I was able to get all the hard to find parts for the LCC as sparts just took time. The hardest to find was the Losi Dig Servo Arms (LOSA4038 and Battery / RX Trays (LOSA4032). Have another box worth not pictured with new in package HD worms and stuff. Never know what my future LCC/LNC plans will be so I stocked up on the spares just in case. Planning on taking my LCC to the next level this spring and maybe converting the LNC to an LCC - the dig.

 

[Grip Roll]

Keep an eye on Ebay. I have both a LCC and LNC2.0. I was able to get all the hard to find parts for the LCC as sparts just took time. The hardest to find was the Losi Dig Servo Arms (LOSA4038 and Battery / RX Trays (LOSA4032). Have another box worth not pictured with new in package HD worms and stuff. Never know what my future LCC/LNC plans will be so I stocked up on the spares just in case. Planning on taking my LCC to the next level this spring and maybe converting the LNC to an LCC - the dig.

Ya can never have too many spares....ive got my nc on sale,want a new b/l power combo and obligatory spares.

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[Tib]

Ya can never have too many spares....ive got my nc on sale,want a new b/l power combo and obligatory spares.

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Yeah even if I never use them, safer to have them stored then never be able to buy them in the future. G/L on sale of the NC.

 

[Grip Roll]

Ya get that pinion . I’ve been looking for a LCC since I got my LNC still haven’t found one and can barely find the parts to make a LCC so I been making most of the stuff

Got em....Horizon in germany had em...hope my calcu....guestimations are correct...bought 13 through to 16 for good measure

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[Grip Roll]

So one suitable pinion has arrived and I can finallly get some testing done.
Managed to find a brass 14t ftx pinion in the uk and ive run it up today.
Its still got quite good wheel speed with the 35t brushed set up,im not sure if the slow speed is going to be sufficient as yet.....im going to take some temperatures tonight from the motor can and see what shes like...could be a motor swap yet...

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[Grip Roll]

Got the first couple of runs done....im very happy with it.
Cooked a brand new digi coreless servo trying to set up dig......THE MANUAL CLEARLY STATES.....START WITH AUX CH TRAVEL AT ZERO...dont even ask......
Gearing/temps seem fair...running a 35t motor 14t pinion and 3s but deffo gonna drop a tooth or maybe try a slower motor...tbh I expected the brushed setup to be slightly overwhelmed by the diffs ...maybe a 55-60 turn motor is on the cards or a crawler specific esc....
Im running no extra weights and the super soft inserts really let the rovers work well,all springs are at minimum preload with box stock geometry.
Its a really capable model as is,I am so impressed.

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[H2Ohaze]

I bought a few Robinson Racing Pinions from AMainhobbies:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/robins...-gear-3.17mm-bore-12t-rrp1012/p454461?v=11677
and installed the 12T on my LNC. I haven't tried my RR 14 or 16T yet, but they will fit if the 12T does.

FYI, they make a harder pinion starting at 16T and up:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/robins...steel-pinion-gear-16t-rrp1416/p454466?v=33747

The 12T esp is cleverly made. It doesn't have a step after the gear teeth, followed by the set screw. It tapers after 6mm approx to a larger "toothed diameter". And the tapped hole for the setscrew is then recessed. I had to line it up precisely with the spur (also taking into account axial play of motor) so that the "larger dia taper" edge comes within about 1/3mm of hitting the spur. But it works! no binding, or any wear that I can see on the spur.

The pic doesn't do the tooth profile/recessed setscrew design justice, it's hard to see.

 

[Grip Roll]

I bought a few Robinson Racing Pinions from AMainhobbies:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/robins...-gear-3.17mm-bore-12t-rrp1012/p454461?v=11677
and installed the 12T on my LNC. I haven't tried my RR 14 or 16T yet, but they will fit if the 12T does.

FYI, they make a harder pinion starting at 16T and up:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/robins...steel-pinion-gear-16t-rrp1416/p454466?v=33747

The 12T esp is cleverly made. It doesn't have a step after the gear teeth, followed by the set screw. It tapers after 6mm approx to a larger "toothed diameter". And the tapped hole for the setscrew is then recessed. I had to line it up precisely with the spur (also taking into account axial play of motor) so that the "larger dia taper" edge comes within about 1/3mm of hitting the spur. But it works! no binding, or any wear that I can see on the spur.

The pic doesn't do the tooth profile/recessed setscrew design justice, it's hard to see.

Cheers H20haze.....your the second person to mention Robinson to me.....ive been told they offer a custom service also.
Id like a 12 in my spares,im loving the 35t brushed speed but want just that bit more bottom end.
I have most of the original Losi pinions in hand now but as ever waiting for the 13.

Finally got round to sorting the dig servo today,went with a Hitec hs225bb all seems good.....cant wait to try it outside on some real rocks when I get a shell painted.

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[Grip Roll]

Shot some colour,Fastrax sapphire flip,spa silver and pearl white with Tamiya silver,metallic red and black.
Left plenty clear around rear bed too.
Coffee and then decals.

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[Grip Roll]

That Fastrax sapphire never fails to impress.
Almost felt wrong folding the newly painted shell....
Cant wait to see it in sunlight.

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[losikid]

I would recommended switching over to a sensored brushless. Also, make sure to upgrade your CVD's to the V3/LNC style that has the clip around the CVD pin. Also, check out the 21:1 HD worms that come with the LNC. The LCC 25:1 worms had issues.

A 17.5t is good crawling speed. A 13.5t has enough low end speed but can still has enough speed to jump up ledges but also likes to break axles......These were old tekin redlines. If I was buying a motor today I would check out the offerings from Holmes Hobbies or the ROC412 from tekin.

According to tekin, the 13.5t was a 3500kv and the 17.5t was a 2500kv.
http://www.teamtekin.com/redline_gen1.html

 

[H2Ohaze]

I would recommended switching over to a sensored brushless. Also, make sure to upgrade your CVD's to the V3/LNC style that has the clip around the CVD pin. Also, check out the 21:1 HD worms that come with the LNC. The LCC 25:1 worms had issues.

A 17.5t is good crawling speed. A 13.5t has enough low end speed but can still has enough speed to jump up ledges but also likes to break axles......These were old tekin redlines. If I was buying a motor today I would check out the offerings from Holmes Hobbies or the ROC412 from tekin.

According to tekin, the 13.5t was a 3500kv and the 17.5t was a 2500kv.
Tekin - Product Archive REDLINE GEN1

I've heard of this clip before. On my LNC 2, I had tape covering rear CVD, but not in front...and it fell out in sand. I found it half buried in only about ten min tho. For this "clip" can you give a part # or pic or..?

There's a ver 3 of the LNC?

I've also installed the old 1:25 Losi stock worms in rear with same # of shims (I calipered the 21T HD and 25T and they had same lengths). I did this so the front would be overdriven. I bought a spare set and also have the version made by HR which is nitride hardened and 25T. Are you saying that these will self-destruct on me? Am using 12T pinion, stock 35T motor brushed, 3S lipo.

 

[Grip Roll]

I've heard of this clip before. On my LNC 2, I had tape covering rear CVD, but not in front...and it fell out in sand. I found it half buried in only about ten min tho. For this "clip" can you give a part # or pic or..?

There's a ver 3 of the LNC?

I've also installed the old 1:25 Losi stock worms in rear with same # of shims (I calipered the 21T HD and 25T and they had same lengths). I did this so the front would be overdriven. I bought a spare set and also have the version made by HR which is nitride hardened and 25T. Are you saying that these will self-destruct on me? Am using 12T pinion, stock 35T motor brushed, 3S lipo.

I know some of the cc's did have quality issues with the worms but only comp versions as far as im aware,my race roller diddnt have the issue according to Losi's own part numbers.

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[Grip Roll]

I would recommended switching over to a sensored brushless. Also, make sure to upgrade your CVD's to the V3/LNC style that has the clip around the CVD pin. Also, check out the 21:1 HD worms that come with the LNC. The LCC 25:1 worms had issues.

A 17.5t is good crawling speed. A 13.5t has enough low end speed but can still has enough speed to jump up ledges but also likes to break axles......These were old tekin redlines. If I was buying a motor today I would check out the offerings from Holmes Hobbies or the ROC412 from tekin.

According to tekin, the 13.5t was a 3500kv and the 17.5t was a 2500kv.
http://www.teamtekin.com/redline_gen1.html

B/l system is on wish list but Ive a couple more models to get hold of this month one may have a Novak b+l combo in it already,ill just have to wait n see.
The fella I bought mine from runs a couple of cc and hes pretty clued up,he offered me a full set of v3 cvd's with the roller so I took them,still in packets for now till one goes pop.
Its not been driven outdoors yet even so not keen to go for over/under drive set up just yet but see what I can turn up for the spares his month.

Id like to see if I can make a battery+servo plate for front axle first and also look at some aftermarket alloy wheels,ive not weighted mine yet but would like to try heavier rims first then add weight as I see fit.

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[losikid]

I've heard of this clip before. On my LNC 2, I had tape covering rear CVD, but not in front...and it fell out in sand. I found it half buried in only about ten min tho. For this "clip" can you give a part # or pic or..?

There's a ver 3 of the LNC?

I've also installed the old 1:25 Losi stock worms in rear with same # of shims (I calipered the 21T HD and 25T and they had same lengths). I did this so the front would be overdriven. I bought a spare set and also have the version made by HR which is nitride hardened and 25T. Are you saying that these will self-destruct on me? Am using 12T pinion, stock 35T motor brushed, 3S lipo.

This is for the axle shafts not the drivelines......Photojunk has broke all the old threads but this post shows the differences.

http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/team-losi-comp-crawler/236046-question-v1-v2-v3.html#post2341211

In summary,
V1 - Broke easy, The shaft was tapered at the ball and the pin slot grooved into the taper which made it weak.

V2 - It was still tapered at the ball but the pin slot was much better now. So strong enough. Horizon offered free upgrades from V1 to V2. However, I don't think they ever installed V3's from the factory for the LCC but the LNC got the upgrade

V3 - There was no taper at the ball and there was a spring retaining ring to keep the pin in. This shaft was beefy. However, the pin was still weak. Dlux used to sell chromoly replacement pins and there was also "Gunnar Pins" which I think was made out of piano wire? Anyways, V3's are good shafts and I would recommended upgrading the pins if you can.

I know some of the cc's did have quality issues with the worms but only comp versions as far as im aware,my race roller diddnt have the issue according to Losi's own part numbers.

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Yes, the first LCC's to hit the shelves had the gears cut in the wrong direction. However, even the corrected gears were weak. The spool is fine but the pinion would wear out and break. I went through about a dozen worm pinions until DLUX started selling Chromoly worm pinions. Those were the bees knees.

The HD gears, are pure beef and I also noticed my motors ran cooler as well.

B/l system is on wish list but Ive a couple more models to get hold of this month one may have a Novak b+l combo in it already,ill just have to wait n see.
The fella I bought mine from runs a couple of cc and hes pretty clued up,he offered me a full set of v3 cvd's with the roller so I took them,still in packets for now till one goes pop.
Its not been driven outdoors yet even so not keen to go for over/under drive set up just yet but see what I can turn up for the skip this month.

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Make sure to watch your brushed motors temp like a hawk.

 

[Grip Roll]

This is for the axle shafts not the drivelines......Photojunk has broke all the old threads but this post shows the differences.

http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/team-losi-comp-crawler/236046-question-v1-v2-v3.html#post2341211

In summary,
V1 - Broke easy, The shaft was tapered at the ball and the pin slot grooved into the taper which made it weak.

V2 - It was still tapered at the ball but the pin slot was much better now. So strong enough. Horizon offered free upgrades from V1 to V2. However, I don't think they ever installed V3's from the factory for the LCC but the LNC got the upgrade

V3 - There was no taper at the ball and there was a spring retaining ring to keep the pin in. This shaft was beefy. However, the pin was still weak. Dlux used to sell chromoly replacement pins and there was also "Gunnar Pins" which I think was made out of piano wire? Anyways, V3's are good shafts and I would recommended upgrading the pins if you can.



Yes, the first LCC's to hit the shelves had the gears cut in the wrong direction. However, even the corrected gears were weak. The spool is fine but the pinion would wear out and break. I went through about a dozen worm pinions until DLUX started selling Chromoly worm pinions. Those were the bees knees.

The HD gears, are pure beef and I also noticed my motors ran cooler as well.



Make sure to watch your brushed motors temp like a hawk.

Im surprised so far,my 35 runs cool as currently...ive still to drop one tooth on pinion but its running like a dream....might be a different story once the can has sucked in some crud n dust but for now its v good if lacking a little in bottom end grunt.
The b/l upgrade will cost me more than I paid for the race roller so quite an investment.....no rush for now...unless theres a problem.

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[H2Ohaze]

So Krazedbuilds made an axle plate that was CF and moved servo over and had battery mounted on left. It went off their website this week, but Erik says it's a supplier problem and he will sell them again end of next week. $15 USD plus shipping. I think the LCC and LNC share same axle housing, so many of the screw holes might match up. Here is link which doesn't go anywhere presently:
http://www.krazedbuilds.com/opencrt/losi-unstuck/losi-front-axle-plate

 

[losikid]

So Krazedbuilds made an axle plate that was CF and moved servo over and had battery mounted on left. It went off their website this week, but Erik says it's a supplier problem and he will sell them again end of next week. $15 USD plus shipping. I think the LCC and LNC share same axle housing, so many of the screw holes might match up. Here is link which doesn't go anywhere presently:
http://www.krazedbuilds.com/opencrt/losi-unstuck/losi-front-axle-plate

Yes, the LCC and LNC share the same axle housings.

Did he say if the Losi UnStuck chassis was also a supplier problem or just discontinued like all the other Losi parts?

 

[Tib]

So Krazedbuilds made an axle plate that was CF and moved servo over and had battery mounted on left. It went off their website this week, but Erik says it's a supplier problem and he will sell them again end of next week. $15 USD plus shipping. I think the LCC and LNC share same axle housing, so many of the screw holes might match up. Here is link which doesn't go anywhere presently:
http://www.krazedbuilds.com/opencrt/losi-unstuck/losi-front-axle-plate

I contacted them about the plate yesterday also. I had the link in my saved to buy items and went to buy it last night. I got an email stating the same thing, supplier issue and should be back on the website next weekend. I'll be purchasing for sure. "thumbsup"