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Joywrex's Creeper Build (First RC ever)

Re: Joywrex's Creeper Build

I Finally received the chassis parts but there were not enough screws... So I've been working on other projects instead.

I will put up some pictures in the next few days.
 
I was more annoyed that I didn't have any extra m3 screws around. I appreciate you sending me some though.

My new micro build is taking all of my freetime. It's a whole new concept in how you control the weight distribution. I hope to have the build thread up soon.
 
Back in business. Living in a new apt and stealing spotty wifi. I got a hold of more screws and installed the new chassis. It runs pretty nicely so far. I didn't optomise the link lengths yet. I just wanted to first get it together as soon as I could. Any suggestions are helpful

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Originally I used the rubber hose that came with the losi 4" shocks to mount the top of the shocks onto the chassis. I also wanted them to standoff the frame a bit but with these hoses it was to wiggly. I decided to use the plastic faux ball +socket parts it also came with.
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Now I have an outdoor patio, its on the second floor but maybe I can haul up some rocks for some lazier crawling...
 
I finally have some more time now that I am done obsessing over the quadrocker (see last post)

I found a used dig unit and am working on getting it into the rig. I see Thomas had to grind down the plastic of the dig to fit it into the xr v2 chassis. I guess I will have to do that too....It's too bad. I would like to not have the direct link and instead use the intended slipper and linkage design. Am I more likely to damage my gears with the direct link? I've never had dig on anything so is there anything I need to know?

I have a t-power micro servo is that strong enough? I doubt it. Any servo suggestions?

Oh, and when I bought the dig unit it came with a transmission, driveshafts, creeper axles, steering, and hr lockouts! So I could build a stock creeper roller with all of the parts I took off of this one. Then sell it to make up for all the money I've spent on this one! (Not that it would sell for enough to make building it worth it)
 
I found a used dig unit and am working on getting it into the rig. I see Thomas had to grind down the plastic of the dig to fit it into the xr v2 chassis. I guess I will have to do that too....It's too bad. I would like to not have the direct link and instead use the intended slipper and linkage design. Am I more likely to damage my gears with the direct link?

Yes I did grind off the lobe for the stock bell crank and I too was concerned about ripping something apart with direct linkage...but most dig units do have direct linkage...the light weight nylon servo horns that come stock with most servos have enough flex to forgive quite a bit of over throw in the set up...I installed the dig and mounted the servo without a horn on it then made the linkage to line up 90* from the servo spline...I then attached the servo horn loose with the linkage all hooked up and tested the throw and made adjustments accordingly...screwed the horn on and never had an issue with slippage or grinding...I did set my servo so that the linkage would flex the servo horn just a little when fully engaged (IN).
 
I added the dig unit and servo. The micro servo is not powerful enough.

I added the body pins to the chassis for when I want to have the bug body on it with the bodiless chassis underneath.

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The dig:
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I cut off the mounting boss for the servo saver bits
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How many oz of torque does a dig need?
 
I added the dig unit and servo. The micro servo is not powerful enough.

I added the body pins to the chassis for when I want to have the bug body on it with the bodiless chassis underneath.



I cut off the mounting boss for the servo saver bits



How many oz of torque does a dig need?

If you put a servo in thats strong enough to unlock the dig when its bound up youll probably tear something up...I use a standard size 200oz/in Spektrum S200 servo in mine and it wont engage/disengage the dig in full bind...if you use a standard size servo let me know and Ill tell you how to fit it in there...you have to use a chassis/cab mounting screw
 
If you put a servo in thats strong enough to unlock the dig when its bound up youll probably tear something up...I use a standard size 200oz/in Spektrum S200 servo in mine and it wont engage/disengage the dig in full bind...if you use a standard size servo let me know and Ill tell you how to fit it in there...you have to use a chassis/cab mounting screw

Yeah the servo im using is 35oz/in. I see that S200 as 100oz/in @ 6v (not 200). And I won't be using a BEC. You arn't using a BEC on the dig servo are you?
 
Hey Thomas, Creeperbob, or someone else who has done a lot of link tuning on their vr2. I have been adjusting the link geometry and was wondering what your preferred link lengths are. I haven't shortened the front bottom links at all. I'd like to get the front shocks more upright.

Here are the current link locations:

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Just for fun:

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watch my thread in the next few days Ill be posting some pics of a suspension mod that Ive done...it might be what you are looking for...

The Vulture series chassis' are/were all designed to lay the front shocks down to soften the front articulation...then stiffen it with spring rates and oils like it would be done in 1:1...
 
If you put a servo in thats strong enough to unlock the dig when its bound up youll probably tear something up...I use a standard size 200oz/in Spektrum S200 servo in mine and it wont engage/disengage the dig in full bind...if you use a standard size servo let me know and Ill tell you how to fit it in there...you have to use a chassis/cab mounting screw

Yeah someone at work had a turnigy standard sized servo that I'm going to try to fit in tonight. How did you do it?

watch my thread in the next few days Ill be posting some pics of a suspension mod that Ive done...it might be what you are looking for...

The Vulture series chassis' are/were all designed to lay the front shocks down to soften the front articulation...then stiffen it with spring rates and oils like it would be done in 1:1...

Cool, I definitely will keep checking the thread"thumbsup"
 
Here's how I installed the standard servo:

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I lengthened the power wires so that they could reach further forward.

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Instead of painting the lexan body panels I kept them clear and used sheets of reflective material. It is the reflectors that the temporary road signs are made out of. I have some orange and white that came from Timbuk2 when they were making reflective messenger bags.

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I plan on making the roof panel out of aluminum or hylite to protect the protruding servo.
 
So I used the hylite material i've been talking about to make the roof panel. Because the standard servo sticks up above the chassis I wanted to use a stronger material for impact resistance. This stuff is much lighter than aluminum sheet but still really strong. Plus I have lots of it and it looks cool.

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http://i1120.photobucket.com/albums/l486/joywrex/IMG_7857.jpg[/IM
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[IMG]http://i1120.photobucket.com/albums/l486/joywrex/IMG_7860.jpg
 
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