Ditchrat
RCC Addict
Yeah I misunderstood what you where complaining about, and I was confused on why you didn't know how the shoulder works.
All makes sense now, My bad."thumbsup"
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Jato Got a CMX Unimog
- Thread starter JatoTheRipper
- Start date
Yeah I misunderstood what you where complaining about, and I was confused on why you didn't know how the shoulder works.
All makes sense now, My bad."thumbsup"
I had to remove the ESC and motor to replace the bearings so it's as good a time as any to replace them. The stock ESC isn't bad, but it doesn't have a drag brake. And the 26T motor is way too hot for my liking on a trail rig/scale crawler. I had an often rebranded 45T brushed motor from HobbyKing and a HobbyWing WP 1080 ESC and I thought they'd be perfect for this rig. Or at least a good start since they were "in stock" at my house.
Out with the old...
In with the new...
Usually the motor wires are too long on the 1080 ESC, but in this case they were nearly the perfect length. I ran them in the small gap between the trans and skid plate to keep them out of the way. Unfortunately, I didn't foresee the motor tabs and wires interfering with the clever receiver box. I was able to get the blue wire out of the way, but the yellow wire is still rubbing slightly. I think it'll be OK.
Battery lead was way too long, but I get lazy and keep them as-is because I use XT60 connectors. I might shorten it up at some point.
Next on the agenda is finishing the body. I want to try 1.55 wheels and tires on this truck. I already ordered some tires that are close in size. But now I can't find a good military-esque 1.55 wheel. And, sadly, Gear Head seems to have discontinued most of their 1.55 glue on wheels.
Out with the old...
In with the new...
Usually the motor wires are too long on the 1080 ESC, but in this case they were nearly the perfect length. I ran them in the small gap between the trans and skid plate to keep them out of the way. Unfortunately, I didn't foresee the motor tabs and wires interfering with the clever receiver box. I was able to get the blue wire out of the way, but the yellow wire is still rubbing slightly. I think it'll be OK.
Battery lead was way too long, but I get lazy and keep them as-is because I use XT60 connectors. I might shorten it up at some point.
Next on the agenda is finishing the body. I want to try 1.55 wheels and tires on this truck. I already ordered some tires that are close in size. But now I can't find a good military-esque 1.55 wheel. And, sadly, Gear Head seems to have discontinued most of their 1.55 glue on wheels.
2mtech
RCC Addict
How do you personally feel about the fancy power switch for the WP1080? I mean, it looks nice, but it also seems to offer another relatively large component to have to find mounting space for something usually integral to the ESC, if present at all.
I have no issues with it. It's waterproof and includes the calibration button. But I'm not somebody that despises switches.
2mtech
RCC Addict
I got my first one but haven't opened it up yet...must investigate this calibration button
At least the 1080 has a very nice clicky button and not a tiny sliding switch that breaks when you look at it wrong...
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svt923
I wanna be Dave
The switch on the 1080 (and on a couple other HW ESCs I own) isn't usually a problem but I still prefer not having any switch.
My HW 120A V3.1 has 1 button on the case that serves as the power switch and calibration button and that came out 2 years before the 1080. That is probably the best system that I have used, don't know why they went back to a separate switch for the 1080.
My HW 120A V3.1 has 1 button on the case that serves as the power switch and calibration button and that came out 2 years before the 1080. That is probably the best system that I have used, don't know why they went back to a separate switch for the 1080.
soze
I wanna be Dave
Probably figured that the ESC isn't always in the most reachable spot. Having a dongled power switch allows you to route it to an easily accessible location on a scale truck.
For touring cars and buggies where the HW 120A v3.1 is usually used... It's probably easy and quick enough to pop the body to get to the switch or the ESCs can be mounted where it can be accessed easily.
In my 30 years of RC I've never had a switch fail. Should I play the lottery or is switch failure more hype than reality? I'm guessing the latter.
2mtech
RCC Addict
Lottery, definitely. Next you'll say you've never snapped a rod end :lmao:
I have, but not many. I probably tore most of them up with my Revo 3.3. With crawlers they usually stretch or strip out the threads and pull off the rod before snapping.
svt923
I wanna be Dave
They're definitely on my radar. "thumbsup"
svt923
I wanna be Dave
They really look the part when fully done up with scale hardware.
The other option I can think of is the Boom Racing LC70 steel wheels.
They would look good on a mog after a couple coats of flat black paint.
Thanks for the suggestions! I thought about the Boom wheels as well. I like the new Boom hubs a lot not that they come with the wheels.
I have to decide if I want to go with military or street wheels. I tend to not like black wheels. They get lost into the tires and it ends up looking like one black mass. I like shiny wheels. Plus, the Utes are freaking $90 for plastic wheels. I love Gear Head, but even I balk at that for plastic wheels.
I have to decide if I want to go with military or street wheels. I tend to not like black wheels. They get lost into the tires and it ends up looking like one black mass. I like shiny wheels. Plus, the Utes are freaking $90 for plastic wheels. I love Gear Head, but even I balk at that for plastic wheels.
They're not bad. Inexpensive too. Thanks!
What does the OD of the tire measure mounted on those wheels?With 1.55 Goodyear MT/R
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