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IFS kit for Wraith

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I believe you're missing the spacers that goes between the top of the front diff case and the BMRC top plate. It's where the 4 bolts are, just in front of the uprights. I didn't assembly my kit but that's what those spacers are for.

You can bearly see it in this pic.

ifs_004.jpg
 
Thanks BMRC, the locker is no problem. I am attempting to figure out how these fellas are fitting everything (my bearing hangs out about 2mm) inside the vanquish exo knuckles.

Your IFS kit is on point! "thumbsup"


You can shim the inside bearing towards chassis, or remove the shoulder on axle tang so the stub shaft can slide all the way in and not push outer bearing out. The scx/exo drive cup does not have this bearing shoulder, so its not needed.

I chucked mine into a drill and just went slow with a file, took about 5 mins each. Just keep checking it with bearing so you don't go to far.
 
That makes sence! Why no instructions ? Most people are haveing steering issues with these kits!

i can't find anyone who both (1) has the ability and (2) is willing to make up instructions. its on my personal list but i'm still running several days behind on production and working until about 10pm every night just to keep my head above water. i still have orders from last weekend that haven't shipped yet.


the only steering issue i am aware of is some folks would like to have the bellcrank moved forward. i'm going to take another hard look at the design but its as far forward as possible with the current design. when designing a retrofit like this, you have to compromise a bit. some things are perfect. somethings are as perfect as possible without adding a huge amount of cost to the product and/or altering the stock frame and components.

edit: i took a look and have a few ideas for moving the steering forward. i just need to make a few parts this weekend and try some different configurations.
 
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It looks like the bellcrank just needs a couple of aluminum extensions for the tie rods to bolt to. They could just be little triangle plates that grab the two bolts on each bellcrank and provide a third hole further forward.
 
It looks like the bellcrank just needs a couple of aluminum extensions for the tie rods to bolt to. They could just be little triangle plates that grab the two bolts on each bellcrank and provide a third hole further forward.

That's what I was thinking"thumbsup"
 
Wow BlueMonkey that a really nice wraith.
Do you have a link for your build?

From what I can remember everyone say straight axles are better for crawling so what would be the benefit of using a IFS?
I at least know one it looks super!
Any pro or cons of going IFS?
Thanks.
 
Wow BlueMonkey that a really nice wraith.
Do you have a link for your build?

From what I can remember everyone say straight axles are better for crawling so what would be the benefit of using a IFS?
I at least know one it looks super!
Any pro or cons of going IFS?
Thanks.


heel no! i don't have time to do a build thread on my own stuff :ror:

we're working on a bolt on MIP upgrade for the IFS (lots of guys do this in their garage). after its done i'll do a short writeup on the entire thing.

but since you asked and it happens to be one of my favorite subjects:

its got a super shafty tranny which is completely indestructible (BMRC tested and approved), MIPs, VP aluminum rear. maddog RC light bar and rock lights, KMS K3 freespool winch. I would recommend every one of these products to anyone. supershafty has the best product and service combination in the business, VP makes ferrari parts and maddog RC lights are probably going to be banned in the liberal states for being too bright. i mean its freaking blinding -great product. the KMS freespool is possibly the coolest rc upgrade i have ever purchased... like going from a pistol to an AR-15.

Freqskinz custom made the wrap for me and did a badass job on the design. i have a bunch more if anyone wants to do the "blue monkey grunge metal" theme shoot me a PM i'll sell them for less than i paid.

the only weak point is the front shafts which we will be tinkering with next week.





yes solid axles are arguably the best for crawling. MOA axles are even better but that's in a different chapter. this product is not for crawling. its made for G6/KOH/Ultra 4 style racing. IFS is also very scale since most of the top KOH guys run IFS in the front and solid axle in the rear.

besides that, the IFS wraith is THE perfect RC vehicle. its what we've all been wanting Axial to build for a long time. i just got tired of waiting.
 
I believe you're missing the spacers that goes between the top of the front diff case and the BMRC top plate. It's where the 4 bolts are, just in front of the uprights. I didn't assembly my kit but that's what those spacers are for.

You can bearly see it in this pic.

ifs_004.jpg

shoot thats what all those spacers are for, GRRR was just winging it without instructions lol well i just ordered a different bellcrank :lmao: oh well will get this thing together someday
 
It looks like the bellcrank just needs a couple of aluminum extensions for the tie rods to bolt to. They could just be little triangle plates that grab the two bolts on each bellcrank and provide a third hole further forward.

thanks for the suggestion! i thought about this for a while but couldn't get my head around a few issues. in the end i decided to make a plate similar to what other folks made.

anybody who wants this bracket to adjust steering geometry just PM me your first and last name (the one you used to pay for your order in paypal) and i'll send you one.

all wraith IFS kits are now shipping with this bracket.



Wraith%20IFS%20Steering%20Adjustment%20Bracket.jpg
 
Matt and BMRC. Thank you thank you for this kit. I got mine uo and running and have been cramming in as much time as I can before winter sets in.

With the steering plate you added I have very limited bump steer. Yes the steering throw isn't as much as a wraith axle but for an exo terra it's pretty good. Besides its not like this was designed for a 2.2 sportsman rig.

This really made my wraith more fun than it was. I'm sure ill blow up some driveline components but I'm confident in the frame for sure.



Specs:
36/14 HD gears f/b
Rc4wd Ax2 with supershafty HD motor plate
Tekin 13.5 redline w/ mmp
Futaba 4pls
Original Mickey ttc 2.2s.
Toward pro servo (yes I've found you don't need much torque with the bell crank)
Gmade 103 piggy backs all around (bent the front shock mount flatter)

Dna
 
Anybody having a problem with not much steering? Even with the new plate? Also has anyone got the belly pan with not a enough bend in it? I was really looking forward to buying this kit until my buddy ordered it and is having so many problems.

-JARED
 
Got this from a friends post from another forum. This is what he did.

Couple more things before I can consider the front end done.

I didn't like the limited steering throw even with the steering mod kit from BM. I moved the steering linkage all the way forward and the bellcrank hits 2 of the upper mounts from the bulkhead. I noticed that these are starting to crack along the parting line (from the mold) anyway so I cut them off to provide more steering linkage clearance.



Now the bellcrank is further forward and you can see I only have 2 of the upper mount bolts in place. I think this will be fine strength wise as these 2 bolts have much more thread engagement. I didn't take a picture but the steering links are now about perfectly parallel to the suspension links. No bump steer and it almost turns the knuckle completely from one direction to the other. I've almost maximized the amount of steering you can get out of an exo knuckle.



To finish the mounting, the knuckles need some grinding to clear the big shrouds of the MIP drive shafts.



In addition I had to grind away some material on the upper link mount (of the hub) so the larger traxxas rod end would fit on the outer most hole. You can see from the completed shot below that the inner link mounts on the shock tower are in the upper/outer holes. This is needed to clear the MIP's near the diff. To keep the camber reasonably straight I had to move the hub mounting of the suspension link to the outer most hole, hence the grinding required. Don't have a specific picture, but if you do this mod, youll see. You can also see the Axial HD toe mount for the suspension arms. I'm hoping that any heavy front end collisions are handled easily by this.

Lastly, you can see I moved the shock mounts to the front of the A arm. They actually do fit in the stock shock location (surprisingly) but the Gmad piggybacks are pretty big in Dia. The spring clears by less than 1mm in normal stance. With the CVD's in there now, when you turn the hub right or left, the cvd axle shifts forward or rearward, respectively. When turning right it pushes the cvd shaft right into the spring. Out here they work just fine and don't rub the cvd. Only time will tell if the rocks beat up the rod ends too much. The DMG took his female MIP portion and turned them down which clear the shocks easily. I don't have a lathe so I'll go with this for now.



I am still waiting on my RPM A arms but I'll run these stock Exo ones for a while and see if they hold up.

Dna
 
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I think it is but as of right now he is not taking any orders for this month he got backed up on orders so he now is trying to play catch up!
 
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