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I need a 2mm driver

mash914

Pebble Pounder
Joined
Oct 24, 2020
Messages
158
Location
Pittsburghish
I was at my LHS to buy some tools a few months back and they has some really nice drivers, but I bought some of these dynamite ones

o9hbppY.jpg


because I actually preferred the soft rubber grip with the rotating base. The fancy ones they had were all beautiful, but not very comfortable knurled aluminum with holes(why?) in the handles.
The problem is, my Dynamite 2mm (which is basically the only one I use) wore out in a disappointingly short amount of time. I'm ready to upgrade. While I'm not too worried about price, I really would prefer something comfortable.
Is MIP the way to go? Is everybody sticking with RC brands? What about WERA? Sequentix? They seem like decent quality and look pretty comfortable too.
 
Yeah, those Dynamite drivers suck. Do yourself a favor and invest in an MIP driver. It will be the last one do you ever buy. You know the old saying, you buy quality, you cry once. You don't, you cry twice.

Sent from my LM-G710VM using Tapatalk
 
Yeah, those Dynamite drivers suck. Do yourself a favor and invest in an MIP driver. It will be the last one do you ever buy. You know the old saying, you buy quality, you cry once. You don't, you cry twice.

Sent from my LM-G710VM using Tapatalk


Yeah, I’ll definitely be getting MIP next round lmao!


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Yeah, those Dynamite drivers suck. Do yourself a favor and invest in an MIP driver. It will be the last one do you ever buy. You know the old saying, you buy quality, you cry once. You don't, you cry twice.

Sent from my LM-G710VM using Tapatalk
I figured it wouldn't last, but I figured it would make it more than two kits:lmao:
Like i said, I considered the MIP, but I actually preferred the handle of the dynamite
 
Maybe not necessary but I'll echo MaX-D's feedback. Those drivers get rounded off pretty quick... really bad quality. There's a few companies that have their brand on these same exact drivers. The ones I have are actually Duratrax branded... identical tool though. For sure check out MIP, and Hudy... long lasting quality and worth the money.
 
I figured it wouldn't last, but I figured it would make it more than two kits:lmao:
Like i said, I considered the MIP, but I actually preferred the handle of the dynamite
I bring these with me whenever i leave the house, i.e. crawler course, race track, etc. These are excellent for the money. Zero play in a hex, and I have yet to strip a hex out. These are actually easier to turn with one hand than MIP's.
I've actually used these along with MIP speed bits for a drill to build my current Wroncho project. The tips can also be replaced in these for cheap, where MIP can't.

https://www.amainhobbies.com/dynami...5eNVVBNW6QR2Oo3CNWHOYhFBUPhOgQSxoCfGkQAvD_BwE

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MIP drivers rock. Best alternative are the ProTek TruTorque SL drivers.


~ More peace, love, laughter, & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place
 
I’ve used the “pink” dynamite drivers for years. The reason I have them is my LHS has used them for 8 years, replacing tips evertwo years or so. That is what I’ve also found. I do have a couple of MIP, and VP speed bits, they do fit a smidge tighter.
I can’t wear these out.
c1a21993cf0dfa7f09e3d4408dd0fd70.jpg



Hang up and Drive
 
I feel you. I smoked a cheap set of drivers in no time. Finally got talked into the vanquish set, and I couldn’t be happier. I held out because I was having a hard time justifying the cost, however now that I have them I feel it is actually a very reasonable price. Bearing supported cap, machined aluminum handles, machined tips, and if they wear out are easily replaceable. I’ve used many brands of tools from snap on, Mac, Matco, down to Pittsburg from harbor freight. By far these are the highest quality tool I’ve ever used.
 
MIP baby! :D My set is 10 years old, perhaps older and they work like if they are brand new. I started using them when I was flying RC helicopters back then. 500 size ones so you can't really be messing with cheap crap. Everything has to be precise with those bad boys!

Unknown fact, IF(!) you ever round out the MIPs you can send them back and they will re-grind them for you. Don't know the cost but it may be free with the cost of shipping - don't quote me. But to be honest I have never heard of rounding tips with anyone who has bought a set.
 
Couple other things worth considering that I don't see much discussion about...

Ball-hex drivers: I've had even more issues with low quality ball-hex drivers than low quality straight-hex drivers. My more expensive ball-hex drivers like my Hudy's and MIP's have been rock-solid for years but I've used other brands where the ball-hex took a beating pretty quickly and became unusable. I really think that in a ball-hex driver, that you MUST choose high quality if you're going to be satisfied. Cheapo ball-hex drivers wear out even more quickly than cheapo straight-hex drivers in my experience.

Straight-hex drivers with minimal hex surface: For anyone new to the world of RC tools, I'm not talking about the entire length of the blank shaft... just the actual hex-shaped portion. I've got some drivers where the length of the hex is only about 1.82 mm... That's really short! So there's very little contact area going into the head of the screw. Compare that to my Dynamite drivers at a whopping 4.75mm in length. Much better to have a driver with a longer hex portion so that no matter how deep or shallow the socket head is, the hex will fully fill that depth.
 
Couple other things worth considering that I don't see much discussion about...

Ball-hex drivers: I've had even more issues with low quality ball-hex drivers than low quality straight-hex drivers. My more expensive ball-hex drivers like my Hudy's and MIP's have been rock-solid for years but I've used other brands where the ball-hex took a beating pretty quickly and became unusable. I really think that in a ball-hex driver, that you MUST choose high quality if you're going to be satisfied. Cheapo ball-hex drivers wear out even more quickly than cheapo straight-hex drivers in my experience.

Straight-hex drivers with minimal hex surface: For anyone new to the world of RC tools, I'm not talking about the entire length of the blank shaft... just the actual hex-shaped portion. I've got some drivers where the length of the hex is only about 1.82 mm... That's really short! So there's very little contact area going into the head of the screw. Compare that to my Dynamite drivers at a whopping 4.75mm in length. Much better to have a driver with a longer hex portion so that no matter how deep or shallow the socket head is, the hex will fully fill that depth.


Made it to my LHS today. The only MIP stuff they had was ball end which I chose not to buy. They had a brand called Arromax and the guy let me open it and give it a feel - despite my earlier reservations, the aluminum handles full of holes was surprisingly comfortable. So I bought it to try. I rebuilt my axles tonight and it was really nice actually. I was surprised how much I like how lightweight the handles are.

Thanks for all of the help everybody. BTW, I'm ordering the Vanquish ones as well.
 
MIP drivers rock. Best alternative are the ProTek TruTorque SL drivers.


~ More peace, love, laughter, & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place

I don't have any Protek SL but I was thinking of a basic set. They have that cap allows u to spin the driver but I wonder if it makes noise.
 
I don't have any Protek SL but I was thinking of a basic set. They have that cap allows u to spin the driver but I wonder if it makes noise.
The "noise" is incredibly minor, and not enough to bother anyone. It's about as "loud" as when you scratch an itch, if that makes sense to you.


~ More peace, love, and kindness would make the world a much better place
 
You've obviously never heard me scratch myself!
TMI...lol

Don't think this will help...but...in regards to hex drivers, while I use MIP & ProTek on all vehicles/vessels, I find myself using MIP more on my cars/trucks, and ProTek more on my boats. There's no specific reason as to "why", except for, maybe, the longer shafts of the ProTek drivers. As for but drivers, I still use, almost entirely, the MIPs (notice I said "almost", as I do have/use a could ProTek nut drivers).

For working "faster", ProTek drivers are probably best...and, for better "tightening control", MIP drivers are best. That's why you need both. [emoji1687]


~ More peace, love, and kindness would make the world a much better place
 
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Hudy spring steel is hard to beat. Their design is also good with the taper. MIP is a little too stiff and not as nice to use day in and day out. Like the weight on most of the Hudy tools also.
 
Get the sizes of 1/4" drive. Quick Tips you need from MIP or Associated, or your other favorite brand and then go shopping for a handle that you like. I have AE, MIP, and Ofna tips at home, they can all go in to my cordless driver or any other screwdriver handle that I have. And I still have my regular set of AE tools. And somewhere, packed away after my mast move and yet to find again I have a set of MIP drivers.
 
Over the years I've accumulated an assortment of drivers from MIP, Hudy, O.S., EDS, and Associated. I can reccomend all except the EDS, it's made in China and the tip wore out quickly. The MIP speed tips are great for my 1/4 electric driver.

Last winter I picked up a Locked up 2mm driver to try. I'm in love. It fits ridiculously tightly into the bolt head, like you can hang button head bolts off it,, the machined part of the tip is long enough you could safely grind it down twice if you somehow managed to wear it out. The tip doesn't feel all springy when torquing down hardware and they're not any more money than the other brands. I'm sold and will be replacing other tips with Locked up as they wear out.
 
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