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HumboldtEF's LC70 SSD Trail King

I just ordered a Trail King kit and thankfully I found this thread! I have already snagged the files for the headers and fan, will you be making the other parts available? The master cylinder and ignition coil are perfect.


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I just ordered a Trail King kit and thankfully I found this thread! I have already snagged the files for the headers and fan, will you be making the other parts available? The master cylinder and ignition coil are perfect.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Yeah I'll likely share some of those other designs eventually.
 
I got the wiring sorted out enough I could finally put the body on with it all installed. I extended the wires for the ESC, Servo and BEC so I could stash those in the fuel cell. Though My ESC still is touching the bottom of the interior and pushing the slider on that side down, I could have sworn it cleared before. Anyway I'm going to either make a new slider/tray that I can recess the ESC into or try to heat and form the interior to make space.

tXiBOGcl.jpg


I plan to pick up some mesh wrap to clean it up once its back in stock, I've been curious where to find this for a while and found Amain has some in various sizes.
https://www.amainhobbies.com/hyperi...ack-1-meter-10mm-hp-mesh10bk/p773799?v=761931

I got it out side on my rock pile and I had also just finished up a Endure IFS roller so I ran both back to back. First off its way too fast with the 13T Crawlmaster and 16T pinion and because of that I didnt have much finesse down low and the drag brake was pretty weak. Its a heavy truck in the low 8lb range and the stiffer springs I tried worked well with the weight (gray up front Blue in the rear). The approach angle were pretty good allowing it to nose right up to the rocks. For a heavy hardbody I think it performs very well, it definitely out did the IFS roller with no body (I rolled the IFS rig way more).
I picked up a bit of rock rash already reminding me why I like a weathered truck so much.

Today I swapped in a 45T Torquemaster motor and a 12T pinion, hopefully its slow enough as swapping motors or pinions requires a complete tranny tear down since setting the mesh requires this.

Update: its much better lots more usable torque, but maybe a touch too slow. It doesn't have a ton of wheelspeed for a good bump. I may play with a 15 or 16T pinion but this speed suits the truck well.
I'm also digging the thicker 90 wt shock oil I used. It really slows down the shocks on sketchy weight transfers which gives you plenty of time to react. The suspension also has no problem flexing with the 90 wt.
 
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I had everything ready to go for a run this weekend and ran into an issue with the drag brake. The Mamba X micro (and regular) has a drag brake ramp feature that does just like it says and ramps in the drag brake. Anyway I ran into an issue where I was using this setting and after letting off the throttle I would occasionally have the drag brake cut out and I would coast for a 1-3 seconds. I tried testing just about everything, changing the ESC settings, resetting it to defaults, re-calibrating the ESC, re-binding the receiver, adjusting throttle trims, changing the deadband on the radio.

The only thing that got rid of the issue was turning off the drag brake ramp. Swapping in another Mamba micro X gave the same results.
Thought he real solution seemed to come from swapping out the motor which was a 45T HH Torquemaster 540 for a 12T HH Crawlmaster 550 and the issue went away.
I did adjust the timing on the 45T motor so I wonder if that messed up the Drag brake ramp? I was confused as to which way to got base off just the sound.

I got it in ship shape to go on its first outing at one of my favorite spots Megwil point.

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Man, the LC70 TK looks great out on that great rock terrain with the spectacular scenery!

Looks like a perfect place to do some tiny truckin'!
 
I too noticed that setting pinion mesh, or swapping motors, was kind of a pain. Other than that I've no complaints with the TK.

Yours looks badass with that tire /wheel combo.

Any other plans for it?
 
Man, the LC70 TK looks great out on that great rock terrain with the spectacular scenery!

Looks like a perfect place to do some tiny truckin'!


Thanks, this spot is definitely one of my favorites.



I too noticed that setting pinion mesh, or swapping motors, was kind of a pain. Other than that I've no complaints with the TK.

Yours looks badass with that tire /wheel combo.

Any other plans for it?


Thanks! I do plan to add lights, I have a bag of warm white LEDs to use.


I also plan to add a firewall, brake booster, clutch master and a (car) battery. I already have the firewall cut to roughly fit.

Oh and its no joke changing the motor or pinion, the night before I took it out to the rocks I swapped the motor twice and I was up till 1:30 in the morning finishing it up. You basically need to tear the entire tranny down to do this. But thats the price you pay for scale I guess, it is a very nice unit.
 
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I made up a light kit to fit my build using some warm white 5mm LED's, and some standard 5mm red and 3mm orange LEDs. I also ended up with 2 different voltages and running some LEDs in series and some in parallel in order to get different levels of brightness. There is no lighting controller which I really like, you just need to find LEDs rated to handle your battery voltage/receiver voltage.

It was a time consuming process so I broke it up into parts as I put it together.

The chassis side has fog lights up front along with 2 marker lights with the rear just having brake lights (the brake lights are built into the rear bumper). The fog lights are running straight off the battery voltage so 11-13V, the marker lights are running off 6V receiver voltage plus they have built in resisters. Brake lights also run off 6V and I ran them in series to make them a bit dimmer.

I ended up making up a dual JST plug retainer in order to achieve the 2 voltages. One side gets receiver voltage the other gets battery voltage.

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This connects to the body.

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The rear came out the tidiest wiring wise. I tried to make all of the wires just the right length so I didnt have to coil up or deal with the excess.

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The front just didn't have a good place to route or hide the wires behind the bumper. But thats only seen with he body off.

KkTHf7s.jpg


I decided against adding lights for every option, like the main blinkers on the headlight, I think those only come on when in use. Plus I dont plan on adding a scale lighting controller to control blinkers, brakes and the like.
Not adding the extra blinker lights made the body side install cleaner and easier too.

The Body side lighting ended up being just the headlights and the dash lighting. Headlights get battery voltage and the dash gets 6V. I had to design up a LED retainer as it looks like Killerbody doesnt include them, you have to buy their lighting kit to get them which is pretty lame.

LED retainer
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Routing the wiring in the body is hands down the cleanest I've ever had though its super simple which helps a ton. I ran some wires under the body mounts which meant routing them first and then soldering it all, its stuck in there now lol.

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The interior kit includes a light up dash and its surprisingly detailed and they nailed the brightness of the gauge cluster, though the info-tainment center is too bright maybe like the real ones :flipoff:

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4GrN2LE.jpg


I also finally got around to installing the firewall and brake booster I made a while back. I used .50 thick styrene for the firewall after some CAD (cardboard aided design) work. The brake booster is 3D printed. I also designed a clutch master cylinder but I'm kind of out of space to mount it so for now I'm leaving it out. Later I filled the brake master with some liquid bandage to add some yellowness and glue it in place.

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The firewall mounts using the same mounting holes the interior uses. Since its .50 thick I can just flex it out of the way to fasten the screws.

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one of the firewall mounting tabs (between the firewall and interior)
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I used some of the dead space behind the firewall to hide and route some of the wiring.

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I'm also working up a rear shock tower brace to distract from the cut up bed. I designed this to have it face forward but I'm thinking it may look better/make more sense facing the other way in which case i'll need to redesign it to allow the shock to be moved.

Let me know which looks better.

Facing forward

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Facing the rear

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Front facing seems more”scale”. Would allow for storage rearward.


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Thanks for the feedback



Wow you're TK is turning out real nice. Really enjoy the work you're putting into it!


Thanks, I'm happy to share.


I got a little footage last night in my backyard.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V7Jkfry4OkY&feature=youtu.be



<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/V7Jkfry4OkY" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>
 
I put together a better video yesterday. I have to say for having 2lbs of body this thing doesn't act like it, might be the 90wt shock oil.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=piy5ZEiy8Ok

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/piy5ZEiy8Ok" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>


I think all thats really left is making up some inner fenders and refining the rear shock tower brace.
 
Great video! Looks like it crawls very well!

I like the shock tower brace! It does a great job of hiding the cutouts and adds a little extra detail to the bed.

Overall, the build looks awesome. Love all the details you've added to it!
 
Great video! Looks like it crawls very well!

I like the shock tower brace! It does a great job of hiding the cutouts and adds a little extra detail to the bed.

Overall, the build looks awesome. Love all the details you've added to it!


Thanks Brian!



I was running into a few clearance issues with the steering linkage and came up with a few tweaks.


The rod end on the drag link (servo side) was contacting the top screws holding the diff cover on (under full compression). I thought about adjusting the axle position rearwards, clocking it slightly or rounding up some button head screws. I decided to just carve up the rod end a bit, I've got spares if it breaks or doesn't hold up.


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The other issue is the steering link was contacting the button head screw on the servo horn under full compression. This kept forcing the steering link to rotate down where it ends up hitting rocks easier.


So I took the ball out of the rod end and ran a countersink bit on one end removing the step and stopping at the start of the ball.


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This combined with a flathead screw gave me the clearance I needed to run the steering link parallel or a touch higher.


This shows the clearance from the flathead to the link

iKOV0XO.jpg



Even with the ball modified I still get full movement out of it as the suspension articulates.
Dn1Ze7C.jpg
 
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This thing is badass. Great job.

Btw over the bell housing exhaust cross over is done in the 1:1 world. My Tacoma 3.4l was like that. I’ve seen Others as well. I like what you ended up doing though.
 
Such an amazing build! Your print details are well thought out. Please let me know when you design your inner fender. I would love to have a set for my LCTK.


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This thing is badass. Great job.

Btw over the bell housing exhaust cross over is done in the 1:1 world. My Tacoma 3.4l was like that. I’ve seen Others as well. I like what you ended up doing though.


Thank you sir! Good to know.



Such an amazing build! Your print details are well thought out. Please let me know when you design your inner fender. I would love to have a set for my LCTK.


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For sure If I do come up with something I will share it. Though I've been leaning towards scratch built styrene inner fenders because its so light. I also think my body is maybe set a bit higher than yours possibly.

I've gotten sidetracked by other projects since this thing is mostly there and driveable.
I really do love how it drives though, for a heavyish but not too heavy rig it grips up nicely but isnt too top heavy to drive normally. Overdrive plus the already good steering in the TK makes for a great combo.

Some hardbodies are not that inviting to drive but this thing has struck the perfect balance and begs to be driven. The added axle weight and stiff suspension setup is definitely a big part of it.
 
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The truck looks awesome and that scenery is amazing!

More great work on the 3D prints. I love the rear shock tower brace. It really camouflages the holes in the bed. "thumbsup"
 
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