• Welcome to RCCrawler Forums.

    It looks like you're enjoying RCCrawler's Forums but haven't created an account yet. Why not take a minute to register for your own free account now? As a member you get free access to all of our forums and posts plus the ability to post your own messages, communicate directly with other members, and much more. Register now!

    Already a member? Login at the top of this page to stop seeing this message.

How to do the narrow XR10 mod to Axial axles

Thanks for the replies. I kind of figured it was the unis binding, because the xr mod has sooo much throw! I will just drive around it for now.. Im headed over to check out the dlux unis now. 8)

Its pretty easy to do this yourself. Just need to disassemble the universal and put in some small reliefs with a dremel or even a 3/16 chainsaw file works well too. If you have binding you should see a small indent where the ears are colliding to tell you right where it needs to be. That or look at Dlux's and make yours look just like that.

Has anyone done this mod with cms? I have cms and have ordered the parts to do this and was a little concerned.

The chassis mounted servo will have no impact on this steering mod other than you may need a different steering link. You may have to clearance and tinker with some things to get the full range of steering that this will allow. All of my cars with this are CMS. No worries"thumbsup"
 
Thanks guys. Mainly just worried about getting enough travel from my servo to turn it that far I guess.
 
I'm in the middle of doing this mod, but the full width XR version. I'm having trouble getting my CMS to work, mainly panhard clearance issues because I pushed my front end out (longer links and rear end), I'm at 13.8" wheelbase now. I ended up having to make my own panhard axle and frame mounts, still messing with it, but I'm getting close.
 
Allow me to share the results of xr10 mod project that I am working with my friend Bundy.
Thank you so much for my friend Bundy (http://big-fab.blogspot.com/?m=0) who make the axle tube in his workshop.
We have tried to make from steel and brass, and finally we chose brass as the material in terms of weight does not differ much from the steel and corrosion-free of course. We also design a bearing mounted on the axle tube.
What do you think, criticism and advice please
Thanks



Rear axle inside

 
Last edited:
Just machined some delrin beef tubes per the OP as well as traded my Vanquish SCX10 stage 1 kit for an Axial XR10 aluminum kit (Just waiting on shipping now)

All that's left is a set of universals and i'm in business.
 
my axial zero ack arms came in today

Also filed down the bosses on the axle. Was going to file the two halves as the OP states to allow the hubs to clock, but my hubs slip on and lock in place without filling the halves to points.

Also, i have both the delrin and SST beef tubes. I thought i read you can use standard beef tubes, but the holes in the scx10 beef tubes dont line up with the mounting points on the XR knuckles.

I'll use my delrin's and then measure where the hole is drilled through and then carry that hole over to the stainless tubes (I want the weight)


Then the last piece of the puzzle will be the universals which show arriving in 3 days.
 
So everything came in and i was able to use my steel beef tubes.

I did create a little too much slop on one of the filed down ends. It still works, just more slop than i should have. Don't drink and grind kids

Also, i am not getting full steering (under power) to the right. I get full steer to the left though. I thought it was a weak or dying solar D772, so i swapped in a buddies HT-7954 (both at 7v) and same issue. If i pick the truck up, i get full steering lock both ways.

Guessing my steering arms (Went with axial aluminum) are to blame?
 
So everything came in and i was able to use my steel beef tubes.

I did create a little too much slop on one of the filed down ends. It still works, just more slop than i should have. Don't drink and grind kids

Also, i am not getting full steering (under power) to the right. I get full steer to the left though. I thought it was a weak or dying solar D772, so i swapped in a buddies HT-7954 (both at 7v) and same issue. If i pick the truck up, i get full steering lock both ways.

Guessing my steering arms (Went with axial aluminum) are to blame?

Glad you got it done, I've been there on the grinding when late and tired or couple beers and oops. I try not to do that kind of rc work under those conditions....it can wait until tomorrow. :lmao:

As far as your steering, that is servo not strong enough. Set bec to max servo voltage, check for linkage binding and try again. Pic of said linkage?
 
Well when your wheels on the ground and you're not moving. Even with a super strong servo its not likely that you'll get full steering motion.

Its like trying to turn the wheel of a 1:1 with no power steering. When parked it takes some serious effort, but while in motion its smooth and considerably easier.

I have xr10 steering all with servos with more than 300oz of torque and I think only one rig (the lightest one) can get full turn when just sitting.
 
Back
Top