• Welcome to RCCrawler Forums.

    It looks like you're enjoying RCCrawler's Forums but haven't created an account yet. Why not take a minute to register for your own free account now? As a member you get free access to all of our forums and posts plus the ability to post your own messages, communicate directly with other members, and much more. Register now!

    Already a member? Login at the top of this page to stop seeing this message.

How much wheel weight? Scx10ii JK

S.J.

Newbie
Joined
Feb 1, 2020
Messages
14
Location
US
I have a set of proline 2.2 titus beadlocks and some proline tsl's to install on SJ the JK. Wondering how much weight everyone puts front/rear when wrapping with lead? Right now I've got 84 grams so far and am debating on adding another wrap which would be 175 grams total up front. And a total of 112 in the back.
Thoughts? Opinions?
871fb6161be694932c4acbfbead7dcc6.jpg


Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
 
I personally wouldn't add more rotating mass to your wheels. Maybe get some brass knuckles or add lead to the axles instead.

Sent from my GM1917 using Tapatalk
 
Rotating mass is hard on the drivetrain, you'll break and/or end up with sloppy parts much faster.

Rotating mass "weighs" 2.5 times it's sitting vs spinning weight.

You're pretty much always better off adding non rotating weight if you're going that route.

IE. knuckles, chubs, link mounts etc. in brass or steel.
 
Personally I wouldn't go over 3 oz (~85 grams) per wheel, it just seems like really diminishing returns past that. Aluminum wheels + brass knuckles is the better combo.
 
Metal beadlock wheels (1.9 or 2.2) about 75 grams total weight per wheel, that's just right imo.
 
Brass/steel tubes in the axels, I made a set once and they worked nicely. I just bought a new SCXII kit and they would be difficult to put tubes into, although I did see that someone does make a nice set...cant find the link.
 
I have plastic titus beadlocks. I set them at 85 grams lead plus whatever the plastic wheel weighs. The outer ring is metal but the rest is plastic.
21478c0be99153a61c11e84d6b2ba0ba.jpg
71355edec925f3978a7a2281533e4b48.jpg


Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
 
When I've used plastic beadlocks, yes add a little weight but I still like about 75g per wheel including the wheel and weight, not counting tire/foam weight.
 
I don't have scales anymore to weigh what my wheels were to start with... plus one full wrap came out to 84grams so I went with it...lol... see how it goes I guess...

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
 
Rotating mass is hard on the drivetrain, you'll break and/or end up with sloppy parts much faster.

Rotating mass "weighs" 2.5 times it's sitting vs spinning weight.

You're pretty much always better off adding non rotating weight if you're going that route.

IE. knuckles, chubs, link mounts etc. in brass or steel.

Never thought about it that way, that makes since!
 
Never thought about it that way, that makes sense!

I love heavy wheels, but picturing my poor motor and all those delicate parts in between it, and the wheel, trying to get it spinning and stopping repeatedly...

Just makes me cringe, perfect recipe for slop and broken parts.

Plus, you just lose that "snap", quick throttle response you get with lightweight wheel and tire combos.
 
All the better reason to get a bigger motor

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
 
... and beefier driveshafts, CVs, axles, gear sets, bearings, transmission internals, pinion and spur gears etc. etc. etc.

Or,

Brass knuckles and chubs, done [emoji23]
If history has taught me anything I never do it the easy way...lol

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
 
I do plan on getting all the brass stuff eventually but for now its lead taped to the wheels...

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
 
The amount of weight depends on your wheel speed. If your car can jump stuff then no more then 1 wrap. If you can walk as fast as your top speed 3 wraps is fine if you turn the punch down.

It's all very subjective and depends on your driving.

As long as you are aware the weight is there and know that it can damage the drive train with abrupt starts and stops, you can avoid the damage all together.

Especially since new esc's have the option to turn down punch and drag brake rate.

IMO and aparently it's just an opinion, but crawlers should be slow, too slow for for the rotating inertia to be a real issue.

It's better to cut off weight that's higher up, but sometimes wheel weights are just as effective.

I have light and heavy rigs, and I enjoy the heavy rigs more, but the cringe factor when they fall is real. Heavy rigs are much more likly to take damage.

Handy gearing spreadsheet
 
Back
Top