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Hillbilly's garage

hillbillyrc

RCC Addict
Joined
Jan 14, 2012
Messages
1,945
Location
Vancouver
Been gone for awhile but never really left. Still have the barracho (barrage with scx10.2 axles) and still not finished. Below is the old thread for it
http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/1-9-...ys-low-range-inspired-cab-swapped-bronco.html

Since then I picked up an axial deadbolt scx10 with scx10.2 trans from a buddy last year that needed an esc replaced. Going to rebuild it. Already have some cheap metal axles and a lcg trans, New treal beadlocks , rock pirates bed and rear shock mounts and new vanquish s8e 90mm shock. Power will be a fusion SE 1200kv. With a red cat pinched ascent blue cab

Recently bought an element sendero se and already have a bunch of parts for it before it arrived. 12.8" wb conversion to fix the wheelbase to body. element front metal links. IERC sendero aluminum sliders. Strc Aluminum rear brace, gatekeeper hard front shock mounts x2. Fusion SE 1200kv, vanquish vs410 bumpers and new Yokohama m/t geolander tires. And cheap beadlocks. Have treal brass knuckles and c-hubs but also some aluminum ones I'll see what I like more and works.

 
I ended up stopping by my LHS and picked up some G8 TSLs mounted on proline beadlocks.
The amk wheels I got are super lightweight, the tsl plastic wheel combo are 109 grams
And tsl plastic proline inner ring and aluminum wheels are only 130 grams. And surprised how easy they were to mount up with this combo. Also tossed in a picture of the proline beadlocks with the amk inner ring.





I like the wheel and tire combo on this truck



Also installed the vs410 bumpers. Front fit great the rear needed so work to fit. The rear bumper posts are slightly bigger and I ended up sanding down the post .2mm it needed to able to fit. Trimmed the rear of the body to tuck the rear bumper in as well.




Removed the rear cross brace for the SE and installed an enduro strc Aluminum rear brace dropped 15 grams and gained tons of up travel. Enough to hit the panhard bar mount on the rear SE shock towers/ every other element front towers. I have some gatekeeper fronts towers I'll install front and rear to fix that and gain shock mounting options. I did install the 12.8 wb conversion but used different rod ends and didn't come out to 12.8" so I ordered some Enduro rod ends which should achieve the correct wheelbase.



 
Bought an interior for the ascent cab from spare time hobbies that just came out same time I got some fold it yourself seats from scale metal supplies. Both look good, I'll figure out which ones I'll use.

[/B]o/TwWJtDZ]




Also got the Enduro rod ends in so I can fix the wheelbase on the SE as well as a gatekeeper interior for it. Element rc's YouTube shows how to make it fit in the body and others of theirs.
https://youtu.be/iUcDbde-JRY?si=0CIOhNE778HQ4VNN
 
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My element rod ends showed up and finished the 12.8 conversion as well as replaced all of the plastic links with stainless steel ones. Also replace the plastic balls with metal besides the drag link but will when I swap out the servo. Installed gatekeeper/ecto front shock towers in the rear. Need to play with rear bumper mount and bumper placement. Got a new y60 Nissan patrol truck body. Debating if it will go on the SE or the carbon fiber chassis I have sitting.




 
I picked up an cross rc tube bed, this is the top part I'm thinking about fitting in. I do like the look and it different from every other one I've seen. Haven't got the nerve to make hole to mount it yet. I added 6mm spacers to check height and get the cab mounts above the back window. I think it will tie with the interior and cage I have for it.



 
Coming along nicely. The Nisaan body looks great. Not sure I have seen anyone on the board here paint one of those up

Sent from my SM-G990W using Tapatalk
 
Coming along nicely. The Nisaan body looks great. Not sure I have seen anyone on the board here paint one of those up

Sent from my SM-G990W using Tapatalk

I found it from a company in Italy, hopefully I can paint it well enough to look good.
 
Been busy lately and just getting parts together for the many projects piling up.
Got some desert lizard shocks and some portal axles for the lcg chassis going to use the Nissan patrol body for that project.
Picked up two capra 18s one for my son.
the other for a blackfoot body I have laying around also picked up a PC3D mini stage dive chassis for it. Already have a paint scheme for it as well as new wheels and tires that are close to the 1:1 I'm building to. More on it when it all gets here and I start on it.
 
Here is the utb18 with blackfoot body the wheelbase is super close and width is about spot on. The silver wheels and 4.19 vanquish falkens are going to be the combo which will work once I open up the wheel wells some more look the 1:1 maybe step down to a 3.7-3.8 tire if I can find something that will work.











Here is my goal for this tiny truck

 
Im wantin to do the same thing with a blackfoot body. Heres my baby...

84 f150 on a 00 f350 chassis
225e65f2bf8bcf8533b880d4e1e0b65b.jpg


Sent from my SM-A516V using Tapatalk
 
Im wantin to do the same thing with a blackfoot body. Heres my baby...

84 f150 on a 00 f350 chassis
225e65f2bf8bcf8533b880d4e1e0b65b.jpg


Sent from my SM-A516V using Tapatalk

Getting the paint right is my concern at the moment.
First time I saw dirty head Dave build his mom's
spaghetti F-150 on dirty everyday for ultimate adventure I thought a blackfoot would be a awesome base for a build for it.
 
Debating on front weight as I have a full set of aluminum and a full set of brass c-hubs and knuckles. At the moment I'm going to run brass C-hubs and aluminum knuckles. I did as seen swap steering arms. The Treal (black) with hardware were 6 grams and the aluminum are 0 grams the hardware bumped it to 2 grams. Overall the GPM aluminum knuckles and brass arms are 16 grams vs 10 in stock form.



Worked on getting this interior cage to fit better in the cab of the sendero almost have it to a friction fit. Which I'll probably use some E6000 to secure it in.

 
Use servo tape, makes it easier to remove if needed
 
Flipped the rear vs410 bumper so it sat right below the body after putting the gatekeeper front towers in. There was a big gap before. Although I ordered front and rear scalerfab bumpers which I'll probably need to adjust everything again once they arrive.

Installed the IERC sendero sliders and installed the fusion SE 1200. Going to try it with zero under drive first before I install the 12% gears. I picked up a stealth x trans kit cheaper the getting all the parts needed to put under drive into the stealth xf.


Removed the CMS brace up front to get full up travel. Installed a stock brace from my barrage, to add rigidity and it clears the servo just fine.

 
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Just a small update, I received my Dlux mini capra shocks yesterday and new matte silver rings for the wheels. Still waiting on hardcore links with a +10mm stretch in the rear. They should help get the wheel base spot on besides trimming the body to match like the 1:1.

I'll be working on trucks tonight after work and have some visual updates later.
 
Thanks for the tip, I'll try that first before the E6000
I often use e6000 to adhere wires and bits to the inside of bodies. I love how well it holds but it's a surgical cut to remove the stuff later. I find tape comes loose, drives me nuts. Shoe Goo likely cures less stiff than e6000. I think I am gonna try it out.

Builds lookin' good. The utb18 Blackfoot conversion is neat. Kicks the Tamiya version down to the curb. My first pickup was a 1980 F150 so I have a soft spot for that grill design .

Lots of neat conversions are being done with the utb18. Might help keep that platform alive for some time to come.

Sent from my SM-G990W using Tapatalk
 
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Nothing major to update, besides getting the ULV transmission from artful dodgers for the portal axle build waiting on the skid now then I can get it to a roller at least
 
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