HahnsB2
Quarry Creeper
Been many years since I've posted around here. Haven't really touched the hobby in a few years. I gathered a bunch of parts for this build years ago and never got around to it. I broke my wrist riding my trials bike a couple months ago and figured it would be a good time to build this while I couldn't ride.
This is an 2002 Hasbro GI Joe 1941 Willys. The actual scale I've managed to measure when comparing to the real thing is 1/6.5.
Parts list so far:
Fusion SE 1800KV
Hitec 9381 Servo
Flysky G7P
Wraith transmission, 13/52 gearing
Vanquish Rockjock 70s (centered rear) with underdrive gears in both
VP Scale knuckles and inner Cs
VP Ti rear Wraith links
Home made front steel links
VS4-10 3 gear skid
Scratch built steel frame
Scratch built titanium cage
RC4wd 1.47:1 transfercase
SSD 2.2 10 Hole beadlocks
225 SLW hubs
Stainless brake rotor weights
RC4WD Rok Loxs
CI 5.75" Double Deuce Foams (soft front, med rear)
RC4WD 1/8 scale dual motor winch
RC4WD super scale 90mm shocks (junk, Dravtechs on the way)
13lbs with battery so far. Overall gear ratio is 50:1.
Started by hacking away all the excess plastic on the bottom of the body and making the frame rails. The frame is 1/2" square tubing that I ripped down the middle with a band saw. It was then pie cut and welded for the bends. VS4-10 skid because it's readily available and the link mounts are built in.
Next was the cage. Original plan was the use 1/4" steel rod, then I had the idea of using titanium to save weight. I found a really good deal on .265" Ti rods in 10-12" lengths. I knew I needed a couple pieces longer than that, but decided to try it and see if I could weld them end-to-end. The main hoops that run front to back are welded in the middle and it's pretty hard to tell, very happy with that.
I was pretty happy with how the cage was going but realized it was a bit tall.
I cut down all 4 corners of the cage about 3/8" and welded them back together.
The transmission and servo mounts took me a long time to get right. I had a unused 3300KV Puller Pro Stubby and a HH BLE ESC that I planned to use for the project years ago, but realized I didn't want to package an ESC somewhere. These 2 in 1s didn't exist when I planned this project years ago, I made a dimensional stand-in for the Fusion and used that while I waited for it to arrive
Next was the front bumper, I stole this straight from @Szczerba as I always loved the Willys he built.
I then finished up the cage. The front "window" bars and door bars are 3/16" and the passenger handle is 3mm. Total cage weight came out to exactly 1lb.
No Country for Old Men is one of my favorite movies, when I saw another Willys build with an Anton figure, I knew I needed one for mine
More bumper and fender protection/slider work, again stolen from Szczerba.
The chassis.
Why a Hitec servo when there's a million cheaper brands with more power these days? It draws only about 2 amps, plug it directly into the receiver, no other wiring/BEC bullshit needed, and the battery life increase is very noticeable.
The panhard mount I milled from solid steel.
Tied the rear cage mounts into the frame.
I glued tiny 1206 warm white LEDs to the edges of the gauge cluster clear plastic to illuminate it.
Also gave it headlights and marker lights, all controlled from a super cheap Amazon light controller.
Painted with Tamiya Gun Metal.
First run I used the tires from my CXT since I didn't yet have foams to hold up to the weight. Since the 5.75 foams I now have are oversized for the 5.5 Rok Lox, they are now plenty firm for the weight.
This is an 2002 Hasbro GI Joe 1941 Willys. The actual scale I've managed to measure when comparing to the real thing is 1/6.5.
Parts list so far:
Fusion SE 1800KV
Hitec 9381 Servo
Flysky G7P
Wraith transmission, 13/52 gearing
Vanquish Rockjock 70s (centered rear) with underdrive gears in both
VP Scale knuckles and inner Cs
VP Ti rear Wraith links
Home made front steel links
VS4-10 3 gear skid
Scratch built steel frame
Scratch built titanium cage
RC4wd 1.47:1 transfercase
SSD 2.2 10 Hole beadlocks
225 SLW hubs
Stainless brake rotor weights
RC4WD Rok Loxs
CI 5.75" Double Deuce Foams (soft front, med rear)
RC4WD 1/8 scale dual motor winch
RC4WD super scale 90mm shocks (junk, Dravtechs on the way)
13lbs with battery so far. Overall gear ratio is 50:1.
Started by hacking away all the excess plastic on the bottom of the body and making the frame rails. The frame is 1/2" square tubing that I ripped down the middle with a band saw. It was then pie cut and welded for the bends. VS4-10 skid because it's readily available and the link mounts are built in.
Next was the cage. Original plan was the use 1/4" steel rod, then I had the idea of using titanium to save weight. I found a really good deal on .265" Ti rods in 10-12" lengths. I knew I needed a couple pieces longer than that, but decided to try it and see if I could weld them end-to-end. The main hoops that run front to back are welded in the middle and it's pretty hard to tell, very happy with that.
I was pretty happy with how the cage was going but realized it was a bit tall.
I cut down all 4 corners of the cage about 3/8" and welded them back together.
The transmission and servo mounts took me a long time to get right. I had a unused 3300KV Puller Pro Stubby and a HH BLE ESC that I planned to use for the project years ago, but realized I didn't want to package an ESC somewhere. These 2 in 1s didn't exist when I planned this project years ago, I made a dimensional stand-in for the Fusion and used that while I waited for it to arrive
Next was the front bumper, I stole this straight from @Szczerba as I always loved the Willys he built.
I then finished up the cage. The front "window" bars and door bars are 3/16" and the passenger handle is 3mm. Total cage weight came out to exactly 1lb.
No Country for Old Men is one of my favorite movies, when I saw another Willys build with an Anton figure, I knew I needed one for mine
More bumper and fender protection/slider work, again stolen from Szczerba.
The chassis.
Why a Hitec servo when there's a million cheaper brands with more power these days? It draws only about 2 amps, plug it directly into the receiver, no other wiring/BEC bullshit needed, and the battery life increase is very noticeable.
The panhard mount I milled from solid steel.
Tied the rear cage mounts into the frame.
I glued tiny 1206 warm white LEDs to the edges of the gauge cluster clear plastic to illuminate it.
Also gave it headlights and marker lights, all controlled from a super cheap Amazon light controller.
Painted with Tamiya Gun Metal.
First run I used the tires from my CXT since I didn't yet have foams to hold up to the weight. Since the 5.75 foams I now have are oversized for the 5.5 Rok Lox, they are now plenty firm for the weight.
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