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GT3B Hack Question and Answer Thread

Oh boy,

Looks like I need to fix my water cooling loop that broke. Been running stock cpu cooler for a month. Turns out encoding video cause my cpu to overheat with the stock cooler.

I'll try and get the video uploaded sometime in the near term future.
 
Thanks for doing it! I still haven't even flashed mine to the current firmware after years. Now I have a different PC setup and have forgotten everything I had to do to flash. I only remember I was in win7 and had to run it in a virtual XP environment. Btw do you have a YouTube channel with other videos for setups?
 
Ok, So I crudely got my water cooler fixed and installed again. Temps are running unusually high, probably because I used cheap thermal paste.

But moviemaker is chugging along, although great example of why good software is better. MovieMaker is only utilizing roughly 75% of my cpu :sad: and a mere 25% of my memory.

Once it's complete, I'll preview it and then start the really long youtube upload process (I have 63 minutes of 1080p)
 
Here's the GT3C Firmware/Enter Button install Video.

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/fdy64fUNvJk" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
 
Thanks! The YouTube video is valid, but for some reason the Tapatalk link is messed up. When it opens the page it puts a bunch of text before the www. Removing it makes the link valid
 
Very thorough and newb friendly so far. BTW a tip to help devices with slow focus is to place your open hand or finger in between what you're trying to focus on. You may have to adjust where you place your hand but it usually seems to work.
 
Or get a better camera :ror:

It's a picture taking camera from many many years ago. This video went through alot of AA batteries.

But yes, I tried to be as thorough as possible. Which is why it's an hour long. I might upload a 10x speed version to just show steps/process and eliminate commentary.
 
Last edited:
Just getting to the programming setup now. I'm not sure the patch was available when I first flashed my radio very early on. I still have the earlier firmwares on both my GT3Bs. I've also snapped the extra part of my programmer off as recommend years ago. Though I still have the other part. Has anyone had success flashing using Windows 10? I think I may Finally update the firmware to current lol. I haven't needed to change anything so never bothered.
 
spoo76 said:
Just getting to the programming setup now. I'm not sure the patch was available when I first flashed my radio very early on. I still have the earlier firmwares on both my GT3Bs. I've also snapped the extra part of my programmer off as recommend years ago. Though I still have the other part. Has anyone had success flashing using Windows 10? I think I may Finally update the firmware to current lol. I haven't needed to change anything so never bothered.
Click to expand...

Here's how you deal with a programmer broke into two pieces

http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/elec...ack-question-answer-thread-6.html#post3171334
 
Thanks, wasn't even sure if I'd have to reconnect. 2 questions after watching the whole thing. I forgot you've changed the color of the wires in the cable from the original kit. I have black, white,purple,red. I assume as long as everything is oriented the same as the video I'll be fine. In my case what would be the green wire for newer kits would be red for me. Also is the calibration something that's needed on the GT3b or just this new firmware ? Ive flashed a few times and the current version is 4.1 and I don't remember having to calibrate. Its been a long time however. Thanks for everything!
 
Yes, wire color means nothing. Just make sure the conductors are oriented the same. (The wire on the SB1 side needs to go on the Bind Button side of the radio)

I used to reference the black wire

http://overkillrc.com/GT3B/GT3B Hack Kit Install Instructions, Draft 2.0.pdf

And Yes, you should calibrate the GT3B. But the screen doesn't pop up if you are using the broke in half programmer.
In the video I explain how to calibrate, its the same for the 3C/3B

but here's written instructions as well

http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/elec...ck-question-answer-thread-15.html#post3213031
 
Well, I got both of my GT3bs out so I could update the firmware. Unfortunately I pulled the antenna wire from the board of my 2nd GT3b that's a spare. I swapped to the fine tip on my soldering station. Just need to know where I should solder the center wire and where I should solder the shielding. I searched this thread and I couldn't find any pictures, but I found something that said the center wire goes to the middle tab and the shielding goes to the outer tab. I assume its at the edge of the board?
c7ad10a23fdbc9fe3da05692af058da7.jpg
 
Yes, In that picture you have posted

The middle wire goes to the middle pad. The shield goes to one of the outside pads. I don't think it patters which one.
 
Well that was a pain. The tiny thin wires broke off again upon reassembly. I ended up having to use scrap thin wire to extend the shielding and inner cable. Then after it was finally all together I realized I rushed and mixed up the plugs for channel 1 & 2 so I had to dissemble again just to swap the plugs. luckily everything is together and I was able to do a range test on my dark street. seems fine so far, ill do more testing tomorrow after I attempt to update the firmware
 
spoo76 said:
Well that was a pain. The tiny thin wires broke off again upon reassembly. I ended up having to use scrap thin wire to extend the shielding and inner cable. Then after it was finally all together I realized I rushed and mixed up the plugs for channel 1 & 2 so I had to dissemble again just to swap the plugs. luckily everything is together and I was able to do a range test on my dark street. seems fine so far, ill do more testing tomorrow after I attempt to update the firmware
Click to expand...

Yes, definitely a pita. I wish flysky spent the extra 50 cents on a connector there. Or figured out a more reliable way to solder it onto the board.
 
Hopefully that's the last time Ill have to open either radio. I installed the headers for flashing & the voltage regulator mod years ago. I did notice my main radio acts a bit funny with the D/R and CH3 trim switches. It seems hit or miss that it works right. I hope its something I accidentally changed in settings and not the buttons aren't dying. I don't feel like taking the radios apart any more lol
 
spoo76 said:
Hopefully that's the last time Ill have to open either radio. I installed the headers for flashing & the voltage regulator mod years ago. I did notice my main radio acts a bit funny with the D/R and CH3 trim switches. It seems hit or miss that it works right. I hope its something I accidentally changed in settings and not the buttons aren't dying. I don't feel like taking the radios apart any more lol
Click to expand...

If it is the buttons, I can send you a replacement handle button board.
 
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