first crawler help

[rghouse]

Hey there, my first post. looking for some advice on first crawler.


So after doing a good amount of research I have decided on the redcat Axe edition. I want the BRX01 but I just can't justify the 4 digit price tag once all is said and done. I want a solid, well built, and capable rig with the least amount of plastic components, in a scale platform.


1. Tire help...good first all-around set and foam. Not hot on the Axe OEM swampers.


2. battery reccomendation 2s or 3s? AH?


3. Anybody fit the Killer body LC 70 on the redcat Gen 8 platform?

4. I really like what i call Steel wheels, like these G-made: https://rcworld.us/rc-1-10-scale-truck-rims-wheels-1-9-rock-crawler-truck-wheels-uncoated-steel/
makes for a good classic look, anyboy running them? got pics, tips?


5. must have upgrades beyond tires outta the box?


6.Does the truck have locking diffs? or do you call it something differnt in the RC world

 

[Bob_in az]

Pro-line Hyrax with Pro-line dual stage foams are a great setup for the Gen8. Go 3s. I like 2200 in my gen8. I get a couple hours runtime. As for upgrades, the Axe doesn't need much. I would go with some new steering links & wheels/tires, but that's about it. It's very important to check all screws before you run it. Yes, the truck has locked diffs. Most crawlers do, but the trx4 (except the sport) has selectable lockers.

 

[rghouse]

^^ thanks for the info!

 

[Timmahh]

Ran mine out of the box. 2s/3s both work fine. More speed and torque on 3s.

Only real issues I had is after a while the left knuclke steering arm got pretty bent up. And the same side slider broke. Other than than I drove it for many packs since I got in Mid of March.

I did just do some upgrades, but Im still running the stock wheels and foams (foams get very firm in the cold when new. And when I say firm, I mean 42 PSI firm. lol They were GREAT in the hard dirt. They have since became soft. but I'm not sure if they will get harder again as it gets cold out.

Depending on your use, you may not need to do much but run it. I didn't, though I didn't beat on mine.

Out of the box a few things to look for and/or address. Rear shocks on mine were pretty soft. one was really low on shock oil. Front were fine on mine. Seen others have some oil issues on theirs, so checking the shocks out and ensuring they are full of fluid is a good idea. Get a good idea on how to fill/bleed shocks well. It will be something you will want to get down well as soon as possible.
The body is heavy so the rig is a bit Top Heavy. After a fair few roll overs, the middle roll cage area of the body got weak and the mount areas broke out.

I just added some plastic pieces to the bottom of the body and put the screw back in.

may not be a bad idea to take the screws out fo the cage, and add some firm plastic area under the body to help reinforce that area from becoming weak on roll overs.

The velcro on the body for mounting is great. however it is Velcro. May want to get some magnets to use when the velcro gets bad. Mines still ok, but Magnets to mount the body on will be in its future.

Have Fun.
That is most important, and as with any rc, learning proper lipo battery care is an A1 thing to do and learn ASAP.

 

[rghouse]

I wondered about the cage attachment. I plan on painting her so hoping it is detachable. At that point maybe I can reinforce. Trying to plan a spare tire mount too. Not sure the backseat is the best location

 

[Timmahh]

yes, you can take the cage right off. it bolts in from the bottom of the body.

Agree on the spare tire mount. I am thinking on the hood, but that makes it a bit more top heavy than the back seat area, and on the rear gate is just as bad for weight distribution... Front bumper may be the best option from what I can see.