soze
I wanna be Dave
Nice work Casey, it's coming along!
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Enduro Kit, Jim
- Thread starter HumboldtEF
- Start date
Still Bill
Rock Stacker
Thanks for all these tips guys. Hope I can contribute at some point.
Am changing from 48P to 32P spur/pinion gearing using standard Associated parts. Hoping Bowhouse makes a replacement combo battery/servo tray similar to the one made for the SCX10 II. I want battery way forward for more extreme climbing angles.
Am changing from 48P to 32P spur/pinion gearing using standard Associated parts. Hoping Bowhouse makes a replacement combo battery/servo tray similar to the one made for the SCX10 II. I want battery way forward for more extreme climbing angles.
Thanks guys, I've slowed the pace a bit but Its still on the front burner so to speak just simmering at this point.
I dont regret it, I thought the software would be trouble to learn but theres tons of simple free software and tutorials so it wasn't too bad at all.
Thanks I appeaciate that Ernie "thumbsup"
No problem, Post up a build thread it doesn't matter what it is just share "thumbsup"
I worked up a front bumper and I'm still not sold on it. The issue is that the body sits fairly high above the chassis rails so to span up to that as well as down to protect the servo horn its about 55mm which is a really thick bumper! Plus the tires are pretty huge so they occupy all the space on the side of the chassis rail so the bumper can only be a narrow one.
I'm pretty happy with the older style of cow catcher bumper I came up with except for the huge gap between the top portion and the middle. It really needs something to fill that space but I dont want a bumper mount winch.
I'd love to hear any ideas you guys might have but so far I'm considering moving the fairlead up above the middle portion to fill some of that space, a radiator or maybe even a JDM style external oil cooler (google image search if you're not familiar). I considered a Stinger style bumper but I'm really not a huge fan.
I printed a wedge shaped piece to go between the rock sliders and chassis in order to angle and raise them up a bit to fit where the body is sitting.
I cut some left over pieces of these wedges to use as a washer/guide to force the skid to keep true to the wedge. With the screw going in straight (without the wedge/washer) it tries to straighten out so these wedges are necessary. I also used 2mm Longer screws to make up for the wedge, the odd length being a 22mm for the upper links (3).
Now its sits nicely on the bottom of the body
I also printed up a bunch of license plates on Acme License maker.com in 2 different scales and a few different styles then laminated them.
A bit of a failure here, I designed a template to hold the lettering straight while putting the license plates together using the sticker sheet for the Sendero, got it all in line nicely but failed to center it. Then I decided to make the plates above ^
EDIT: one other idea to fill the space between the bumper and body is to add a light bar or fog lights, I've got plenty of light buckets and I just ordered some raw LEDs so I can finally start making my own sets.
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I made a few tweaks to the front bumper design to get it as tight as possible to the body and servo horn. I raised up the fairlead and designed some ridges to go on the lower skid portion to break it up and make less plain.
(right front shock still hasn't been re-mounted so thats why its sitting at an angle)
I also built in some recesses for the Axial fog lights that I plan to CA them into, the reason being I would have had to put holes in the skid to be able to screw them in. The fog lights are pretty well protected by the bumper so I think they should stay put using the CA (superglue).
So I think I've filled enough of that empty space that was bugging me before, I'm happy now.
Now the body is 50% done and I need to get back to that other 50% that I've been dragging my feet on. Its just a lot more complex than all the other small designs I do plus I'd really like to learn the Sculpt mode on Fusion 360 so I can do better pipe/cage structures. The way I do it now is to start with a square structure and try to round off all the edges afterwards but when its a complex design I always run into sections where I can round them off like I wanted.
Oh and I did a google image search of Suzuki Jimny pickup conversions and found a bunch of cool ones and it looks like this conversion is not uncommon at all. Oh and the body mods I did to bob the body are pretty darn similar with the 1:1 minus the welding of course.
I even found a UK company who does these conversions https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kidmfkrrqYA
And some cool footage of one off roading https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kvgykKXRaYw
They also call them Zuki Utes but I'll stick with JimBob :mrgreen:
(right front shock still hasn't been re-mounted so thats why its sitting at an angle)
I also built in some recesses for the Axial fog lights that I plan to CA them into, the reason being I would have had to put holes in the skid to be able to screw them in. The fog lights are pretty well protected by the bumper so I think they should stay put using the CA (superglue).
So I think I've filled enough of that empty space that was bugging me before, I'm happy now.
Now the body is 50% done and I need to get back to that other 50% that I've been dragging my feet on. Its just a lot more complex than all the other small designs I do plus I'd really like to learn the Sculpt mode on Fusion 360 so I can do better pipe/cage structures. The way I do it now is to start with a square structure and try to round off all the edges afterwards but when its a complex design I always run into sections where I can round them off like I wanted.
Oh and I did a google image search of Suzuki Jimny pickup conversions and found a bunch of cool ones and it looks like this conversion is not uncommon at all. Oh and the body mods I did to bob the body are pretty darn similar with the 1:1 minus the welding of course.
I even found a UK company who does these conversions https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kidmfkrrqYA
And some cool footage of one off roading https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kvgykKXRaYw
They also call them Zuki Utes but I'll stick with JimBob :mrgreen:
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Take a gander at the couple of posts here:
http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/chit-chat/253176-cool-pictures-449.html#post5858518
I would seriously love one of these over here.
I can't wait to see this rig completed!
http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/chit-chat/253176-cool-pictures-449.html#post5858518
I would seriously love one of these over here.
I can't wait to see this rig completed!
HAHA I remember those pictures but I completely forgot about them when I started this project up. Only today did I have my memory jogged that these pick up conversions were a thing.
Those pictures must have subliminally influenced me, lol
I also wouldn't mind having one of these, and the newest gen is a real looker IMHO. Hmmm how old are these and how long till they're legal to import?? I think we're on 93' or 94' with the 25 year import rule. EDIT: actuially a 93' Jimny is just a Samurai which we already have lol, a bit less desirable cause its so attainable I guess lol
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When Hurricane Marilyn hit St. Thomas, in the Virgin Islands - My dear departed Dad's Samurai was tied up to all 4 corner posts of a carport with thick boatyard ropes on top of a hill overlooking the island of St. John.
My girlfriend and I at the time had gone down to visit. The house belonged to the US Marshal Service down there, and my dad rented and lived in the old servants quarters on the ground floor.
The hurricane took the roof and 3 walls off the top story of the 2 story house we were all in - we were in a closet on the ground floor from 11 at night until 5 in the morning...
We went outside to survey the damage and then untied the Suzuki and drove to the marina, with me getting out every so often to lift dead powerlines and phone lines up and over the car.
It didn't even have a full soft-top, just the bikini roof stretching from the windshield frame to the top of the rollbar - and the only sign of it having been through a hurricane was the taillight housings had water draining out of them for the rest of the day.
We lost a lot of automotive character when Suzuki left our shores...
My girlfriend and I at the time had gone down to visit. The house belonged to the US Marshal Service down there, and my dad rented and lived in the old servants quarters on the ground floor.
The hurricane took the roof and 3 walls off the top story of the 2 story house we were all in - we were in a closet on the ground floor from 11 at night until 5 in the morning...
We went outside to survey the damage and then untied the Suzuki and drove to the marina, with me getting out every so often to lift dead powerlines and phone lines up and over the car.
It didn't even have a full soft-top, just the bikini roof stretching from the windshield frame to the top of the rollbar - and the only sign of it having been through a hurricane was the taillight housings had water draining out of them for the rest of the day.
We lost a lot of automotive character when Suzuki left our shores...
I picked up a bunch of raw LEDs so I can make my own light kits, some 5mm Red and warm white (not blue-ish more yellow) LEDs that can run off 9-12v and some pre wired 3mm orange LEDs (with built in resisters) also 12v. I'm a fan of the simplicity of running off 12v as you dont have to use a channel on your receiver or worry about running it through a BEC to get the voltage right for the LEDs you used.
In the past I've always started off with the lighting kits and modified them to suit my needs. But after I saw the CrossRC light kits for the Mammoth I was super impressed with the warm white color which I had never seen in a 5mm LED and now I feel like I cant go back to the standard blue-ish LEDs. I even searched for these Mammoth light kits and couldn't find it which lead me to getting these in bulk.
The brand is Bowerful and it has pretty good reviews even
I'm pleased with the warm white LEDs they truly are a nice warm color that looks much more like a normal color. These also play nice in Yellow light buckets unlike a normal blueish LEDs which mix with the yellow and end up more green.
I also got some nice heat shrink with glue inside which I've never used before. I really like it, its great for when you step up from 1 wire to many, I'm used to heat shrink without glue looking funny when you do this because its almost always too big to shrink down to the size of the single wire but the glue filled ones will fill up some of that extra space with the glue and end up looking much nicer.
I think the light kit I soldered up came out nice too, This is the loom for the headlights and blinkers. I also ran 2 fog lights up front and I'll be putting in brake lights in the rear once I print the cage, both of these are run through the chassis and wont require plugging and unplugging (I'm hinging the rear cage). I'll be plugging in this loom for the front lights because I didnt want to run wires to the rear and then up to the front of the body. I used servo wire for the wiring pulling the white wire off as I went (I got a bundle of this wire from Amain).
I painted the headlight buckets with a paint pen and glued them to the body. I drilled a few holes to lighten it up a little bit but I left most of the structure because the tire may graze it and I want it to hold firm.
And I was up till 3:30 last night putting the finishing touches on the rear cage. It'll take a few days for me to print all the parts, it might be like 36-48 hour of print time. then after that I can see if it actually fits lol, but I have a good feeling it should work out.
I added in a few spots to mount some Axial light buckets and a license plate. The body will hinge off the rear post at the back. I'll also be filling in some of the side and top with styrene or lexan and some SS diamond plate, I made up some templates I can print and use when cutting these out. This prints as 6 separate pieces, held together by M3 screws BTW.
The light buckets mount by sandwiching between the holes in the rear of the cage sitting in a recess so they are flush.
In the past I've always started off with the lighting kits and modified them to suit my needs. But after I saw the CrossRC light kits for the Mammoth I was super impressed with the warm white color which I had never seen in a 5mm LED and now I feel like I cant go back to the standard blue-ish LEDs. I even searched for these Mammoth light kits and couldn't find it which lead me to getting these in bulk.
The brand is Bowerful and it has pretty good reviews even
I'm pleased with the warm white LEDs they truly are a nice warm color that looks much more like a normal color. These also play nice in Yellow light buckets unlike a normal blueish LEDs which mix with the yellow and end up more green.
I also got some nice heat shrink with glue inside which I've never used before. I really like it, its great for when you step up from 1 wire to many, I'm used to heat shrink without glue looking funny when you do this because its almost always too big to shrink down to the size of the single wire but the glue filled ones will fill up some of that extra space with the glue and end up looking much nicer.
I think the light kit I soldered up came out nice too, This is the loom for the headlights and blinkers. I also ran 2 fog lights up front and I'll be putting in brake lights in the rear once I print the cage, both of these are run through the chassis and wont require plugging and unplugging (I'm hinging the rear cage). I'll be plugging in this loom for the front lights because I didnt want to run wires to the rear and then up to the front of the body. I used servo wire for the wiring pulling the white wire off as I went (I got a bundle of this wire from Amain).
I painted the headlight buckets with a paint pen and glued them to the body. I drilled a few holes to lighten it up a little bit but I left most of the structure because the tire may graze it and I want it to hold firm.
And I was up till 3:30 last night putting the finishing touches on the rear cage. It'll take a few days for me to print all the parts, it might be like 36-48 hour of print time. then after that I can see if it actually fits lol, but I have a good feeling it should work out.
I added in a few spots to mount some Axial light buckets and a license plate. The body will hinge off the rear post at the back. I'll also be filling in some of the side and top with styrene or lexan and some SS diamond plate, I made up some templates I can print and use when cutting these out. This prints as 6 separate pieces, held together by M3 screws BTW.
The light buckets mount by sandwiching between the holes in the rear of the cage sitting in a recess so they are flush.
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I got a few of the main pieces printed and mocked them up. I got really lucky and the hinge works good and the cab also hits the body posts pretty spot on.
I just needed to trim a 1/4 off the bottom of the cage were it meets up with the cab and trim the nub off the rear of the sliders as they were fouling on each other as the body rotates down.
I was able to get the sliders pretty well inline with the rear cage
Clearance at full flex
The hinge just uses the rear most holes on the chassis and the post off the rear of the cage, I've just left the screw a bit loose so it can rotate. I left this post short and made up some 2mm washers to fill that space (inside of the rails) and help it rotate.
I plan to make another crossmember to go behind the hinge and maybe try to build in a stopper so the body only flips back so far. Right now it flips all the way back without stopping
I just needed to trim a 1/4 off the bottom of the cage were it meets up with the cab and trim the nub off the rear of the sliders as they were fouling on each other as the body rotates down.
I was able to get the sliders pretty well inline with the rear cage
Clearance at full flex
The hinge just uses the rear most holes on the chassis and the post off the rear of the cage, I've just left the screw a bit loose so it can rotate. I left this post short and made up some 2mm washers to fill that space (inside of the rails) and help it rotate.
I plan to make another crossmember to go behind the hinge and maybe try to build in a stopper so the body only flips back so far. Right now it flips all the way back without stopping
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soze
I wanna be Dave
Nice. I just keep imagining how much clearance all around you're going to have. Not much going to get in its way!
Topher Builds
I wanna be Dave
Great work, cage looks good and love those bronze shock bodies. Sharp.
Thanks
I've done some rough calculations and its about 99% tire lol
Thanks Topher, I usually dont go for anodized colors but I'm a sucker for the bronze.
I was originally planning on leaving the 3D printed parts raw but I had to do a bit of sanding on the cage to clean it up and I guess I'll be paining the cage after all.
So I should be close to the finish line, I've got to paint the cage, cut out the panels for the cage, wire in the brake lights, and most likely make a rear crossmember to stiffen up the rear and maybe work as a stop for the hinge.
Oh and I also need to chop the rear inner fenders up to fit with the cage, I'm guessing the entire back and top will be removed.
Anyway I'm really stoked the cage actually worked out, I really spent a lot of time on the design (10-15 hours maybe) and it had gotten to the point where I was second guessing everything about it but decided to push through. Now that I see it in the metal (plastic?) I'm really happy I stuck with that design.
mikemcE
I wanna be Dave
Lovin JimBob!!
Hang up and Drive
Hang up and Drive
MaX-D
RCC Addict
This looks awesome! Love the cage! The bronze really goes well with this truck. You should print a few cages and sell them, hint hint. Oh, okay. I'll take one please
Sent from my LM-G710VM using Tapatalk
Sent from my LM-G710VM using Tapatalk
Thank you sir
Thanks, you still get the credit for perfecting the cool name. I've never been able to come up with any clever names in the past and I've always like the idea of having a unique one.
Thank you!
I'm not sure how many other bodies are this narrow though, its 6 1/4" wide. Its also made specifically to fit the slope of the Jimny cab (which is curved) and the cage/body mount is designed to directly fit the Enduro chassis.
Plus I'm not a vendor on here.
Do you have a printer? I often share my designs on Thigiverse.
I'm considering having the cage printed in nylon from Shapeways if it ends up working well though maybe just for me. I dont know if I'd really want to sell prints and deal with the paperwork a side business might bring with it as I will already be a small business owner soon.
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I got the side panels cut and bent to shape, They cover up this gap left on the side of the body.
And the top panel for the bed
I used the CAD design to take the outlines and print out a 2mm thick pattern that I transferred to the styrene and diamond plate. Without those it would have been a hack job, they made it super easy. I just scaled them down to 99.5% to ensure they fit with a hair to spare.
Oh and I used some larger scissors (not lexan scissors dont want to dull those) to cut out the diamond plate, it works very well though it does curl up the work piece a bit but its easily flattened out (the RC4WD diamond plate that is)
And the top panel for the bed
I used the CAD design to take the outlines and print out a 2mm thick pattern that I transferred to the styrene and diamond plate. Without those it would have been a hack job, they made it super easy. I just scaled them down to 99.5% to ensure they fit with a hair to spare.
Oh and I used some larger scissors (not lexan scissors dont want to dull those) to cut out the diamond plate, it works very well though it does curl up the work piece a bit but its easily flattened out (the RC4WD diamond plate that is)
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