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Electronic Problems? You probably need an External BEC

I am having trouble with my little 10a brushed ESC. I waterproofed it and it hasn't gotten wet yet so that problem is ruled out. When you give it low throttle it starts fine and then it kind of jumps forward for less than a second. And in reverse, it just goes and then cuts out every 2 seconds. I added a capacitor to the motor and the ESC works fine otherwise. I have also checked the throttle trim and receiver too.
 
I have Mamba X and Savöx SB2290SG servo (694.4oz @ 7.4v). Is Mamba's internal BEC enough for this monster servo or should I use external BEC ?
 
MambaX bec: 8a
2290sg at stall: 9.2a

On paper, the MambaX is not quite enough, but in the real world, it should be fine. I ran a 2290 from a wp1080's 3a bec for 6 months or better and never noticed any stalling, glitching, or brown outs. It does have noticeably more torque now that I have it powered from a CC 10a bec. I'd run it.
 
I've attached 3amp bec to my rx8 which works wonder with flysky nb4 and receiver on trx4 w/ roc412, but on my ezrun 4274 summit with trx radio and receiver it isn't working. It didnt even bind when I plug the main esc wires to the receiver and it only did when I plug the bec wires into main esc which usually is the 3rd from bottom due to summit dual steering servos. Was able to bind and power come live as said when only bec wire is plugged in. Any help will be appreciated.

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Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk
 
I have a Hitec servo. It makes crazy digital glitching noises. It always has.

I installed the CC 10A BEC and used the holmes RX bypass adapter.
The CC BEC is set to deliver 7V to the servo.

It's still making a lot of odd digital glitchy noises. I found a programmer for the Hitec servo but none of the settings ive messed with thus far seem to have any effect on the digital noise issue.

It's not as loud as it was without the BEC, but it's still behaving oddly. when there is no input to the servo, sometimes it'll just slightly wiggle side/side like it's just chomping at the bit to move.

Ideas?
 
Digital servos are, for the most part, noisy critters, especially when there is a load on them. I am guessing that the servo quiets down a bit when you pick the front wheels off of the ground. This is all normal, and as long as the servo operates properly, it is fine.
 
Sorry to revive an old thread but I don't want to create a new one to keep the info related to BEC in the same place

I need the help of the masters for Technical question:

I am dealing with the wiring for my Unimog project. I have a bunch of things to connect including the ProTek RC 370TBL HV servo paired with Castle Creations BEC 2.0 Waterproof BEC. All will be powered by 5000mAh 50C 3s lipo battery

My question is.
It is safe to use a single castle BEC to power 2 different devices?
This is because I'm am also installing a rear winch using the rcw4d wireless controller RC4ZS1092 who is intended to be connected directly to the battery but at 11.1 v max
Fully charged 3s battery supply 12.3 v so the use of an additional BEC is recommended by RCW4D
As I mentioned I already have a BEC for my HV servo but I need another? Or can I just connected both devices to the BEC using a "Y" this is like using the Holmes Hobbies Dual RX bypass adapter

this is the diagram for the intended connection

wiring.jpg


please help me to confirm if this may work or I have to get an extra BEC exclusively for the winch controller
 
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If this is the new castle bec with two leads, you will be fine
If older with one output, just don’t max the servo out and load the winch together...... 7a is a lot of power

Hang up and Drive
 
I am having a problem with my bully 2. I needed a stronger servo so I got a SB2290SG and a CC 10 amp to power it. As I am using cheap components, dual 1080s and hacked GT3-C with RTR motors, the low end response is not great. I liked the characteristics of 2s batteries over 3s. Trouble is when I hooked up the servo and BEC, I would get glitching. Tried every possible wiring scenario, direct from BEC to servo included to no avail. On a chance I tried using the 1080 esc and it worked well with no glitching, but I didn't drive it because I thought that 3 amps wouldn't work. I finally tried using a 3s battery and it worked perfectly. My question is why a freshly charged 1500 mah 50C battery with 8.4 volts running through the CC 10 amp not work when a 3 amp 1080 esc will?
 
Evening all,

Ive not got an issue yet and i may not have, but i will at some stage install a "Hitec HS-7954SH" into my RTR SCX10ii Jeep. So it looks like it will poss need a BEC as the voltage needed is higher than the stock ESC will give out.

It does
6.0V: 333.00 oz-in (23.98 kg-cm)
7.4V: 403.00 oz-in (29.02 kg-cm)

Can I Install a LiPo regulator like THIS instead of a BEC. I'd disconnect +/- from the servo and leave the signal wire to the RX.

If I did need a BEC I'm guessing THIS would be OK.

Thanks
Ross
 
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Evening all,

Ive not got an issue yet and i may not have, but i will at some stage install a "Hitec HS-7954SH" into my RTR SCX10ii Jeep. So it looks like it will poss need a BEC as the voltage needed is higher than the stock ESC will give out.

It does
6.0V: 333.00 oz-in (23.98 kg-cm)
7.4V: 403.00 oz-in (29.02 kg-cm)

Can I Install a LiPo regulator like THIS instead of a BEC. I'd disconnect +/- from the servo and leave the signal wire to the RX.

If I did need a BEC I'm guessing THIS would be OK.

Thanks
Ross

I recommend using the Castle BEC. It can be programmed to 7.4 volts so you can get the max torque from the servo.
You will need a RX bypass harness to connect the servo to the BEC and the receiver. http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/electronics/522340-help-bec-install-us-rx-bypass.html

If you can't source one locally you can make one from a Futaba Y-harness by taking the pin to the power wire out of the connector that goes into the receiver and taping it so it doesn't short.

My favorite bypass harness is this one:
https://holmeshobbies.com/electroni...ssories/holmes-hobbies-rx-bypass-adapter.html

You will also need access to a Castle Link programmer to set the BEC voltage.Castle Link V3 USB Programming Kit
Related Note: The Castle Surface Field programing card can't program BECs.
 
Ok great, I'll go with the BEC then.

Thanks




I recommend using the Castle BEC. It can be programmed to 7.4 volts so you can get the max torque from the servo.
You will need a RX bypass harness to connect the servo to the BEC and the receiver. http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/electronics/522340-help-bec-install-us-rx-bypass.html

If you can't source one locally you can make one from a Futaba Y-harness by taking the pin to the power wire out of the connector that goes into the receiver and taping it so it doesn't short.

My favorite bypass harness is this one:
https://holmeshobbies.com/electroni...ssories/holmes-hobbies-rx-bypass-adapter.html

You will also need access to a Castle Link programmer to set the BEC voltage.Castle Link V3 USB Programming Kit
Related Note: The Castle Surface Field programing card can't program BECs.
 
I have purchased the SHV500V3 steering servo from Holmes Hobbies and will have it paired with a Hobbywing 1080 esc and Crawlmaster Pro 12t brushed motor running in my Trx-4 Sport kit.

Should I run a battery directly to the servo? If so, what all would I need, parts wise? This is the first time dealing with an external BEC. Just trying to figure out what would be best for my rig to get the most performance out of it.

Thanks,
Matt
 
The SHV500 is designed to run directly off a 3S or 4S battery so an external BEC is not needed. I use those servos quite a bit and my usual method of powering is to solder a JST lead (one is included with the Holmes servo) onto the battery connector like this:

7v7ozmbl.jpg


If you are not handy with the soldering iron, there are some adapters that you can plug in between your battery and ESC or into the balance plug of your pack for servo power.
 
The SHV500 is designed to run directly off a 3S or 4S battery so an external BEC is not needed. I use those servos quite a bit and my usual method of powering is to solder a JST lead (one is included with the Holmes servo) onto the battery connector like this:

7v7ozmbl.jpg


If you are not handy with the soldering iron, there are some adapters that you can plug in between your battery and ESC or into the balance plug of your pack for servo power.


Thanks for your response! So it does come with a male JST that I can solder onto the battery side as well as the one that comes from the servo itself?

Also, do you happen to know if it is a drop in for the trx-4 sport with needing any modifications?


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Thanks for your response! So it does come with a male JST that I can solder onto the battery side as well as the one that comes from the servo itself?

Also, do you happen to know if it is a drop in for the trx-4 sport with needing any modifications?

Yes, the servo should include the JST lead for the battery side as well.

The servo should fit with no modifications, Traxxas made the TRX4 servo mount a bit oversized but the mounting screws line up well enough with the ears on the Holmes servo case.
 
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