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ECX 1/24 barrage ghetto fab

So driveshaft was fixable lol, all that happened was the two pins just unhooked from the yoke. Never looked at it close enough till now to realize it was fixable. So it run's once again, I still ordered those orlandoo driveshafts incase.

Next problem is I was getting no driveshaft rotation when hooked up to drivetrain with a fully charged battery like it was binding on something? I did also try with a different battery with pretty close to full charge. Checked all my connections for shorts and stuff and found nothing. Weird thing is I pulled the motor/tranny out of the truck and it spins by itself. All the axles turn normally without the motor/tranny hooked up. Then I hooked everything back up and it works again :flipoff:

Not sure if that could of been a ESC problem causing all this. I did take apart the front part of tranny and checked the spur gear spins freely and the motor pinion spins freely which they both do.
 
Well more carnage happening again :mrgreen: So my servo starting making sounds like it was slipping gears and it wasn't turning very good anymore. Took the servo off to reveal the plastic gears...

YqQsT6Z.jpg


Super hard to see but it is a D shape shaft this is supposed to slide on and what has happened is the opening that slides onto the shaft has rounded out on the plastic gear so its junk :flipoff:

Well the other day I put in a order to amainhobbies for 2x Hitec HS-65HB servos so I guess one of those will be going into this truck haha. These Hitec servos put out 31oz of torque at 6v so it will be a good upgrade on this bad boy.
 
I’ve had good luck with the cheap MG90 servos from China. I order them by the 6 pack. LOL. All my micros sport them from crawlers to the Micro Rallys.
 
I’ve had good luck with the cheap MG90 servos from China. I order them by the 6 pack. LOL. All my micros sport them from crawlers to the Micro Rallys.

Yeah I saw those on banggood haha, I only ordered the servos from amainhobbies because I was ordering other junk from there.

Also looked around for esc's but couldn't find any micro scale stuff with a drag brake and a lipo cut off. Only one I found was a hobbywing1625 but no drag brake. Maybe I should look on Chinese websites.
 
Yeah I saw those on banggood haha, I only ordered the servos from amainhobbies because I was ordering other junk from there.



Also looked around for esc's but couldn't find any micro scale stuff with a drag brake and a lipo cut off. Only one I found was a hobbywing1625 but no drag brake. Maybe I should look on Chinese websites.



I just about only run the cheap 10a or 20a ESCs. XYZ brand one if I can find them. You want them without the switch is possible.
 
I just about only run the cheap 10a or 20a ESCs. XYZ brand one if I can find them. You want them without the switch is possible.

I’ve looked at those online, size and weight are good, but how’s the low speed resolution and drag brake?
 
I’ve looked at those online, size and weight are good, but how’s the low speed resolution and drag brake?



No drag brake but my crawlers have worn gear axles are either the geared motor so doesn’t matter. On the Micro Rallys they’ll coast some. Low speed isn’t really an issue with the crawler setups either and the MRallys are go fast. When I had it on the Barrage tranny briefly it was on 2s and was way too fast to crawl.
 
I'm trying to find out the axle ratio on those sumo axles right now. Kinda thinking about making this quicker but I still want some torque down low for when I'm right against an obstacle. I'll do some research but I might need more than different gearing in the axles to make this like a mini rock bouncer.
 
The HBX axles are 2 in to 1 out. That’s the Chinese clone setup of the Sumo.

I think you might have it backwards, ECX is 2:1 and from what I saw the real sumo is 1.85:1 . Disappointing that it's not a huge change for the amount of work needed. Maybe just need more coffee to brainstorm.

I would like to brush up on my tig skills so I could try to make some bumpers. Or I could be lazy and just use my mapp torch lol. Got a few things to do today but I'll try and squeeze in time to try it.
 
I think you might have it backwards, ECX is 2:1 and from what I saw the real sumo is 1.85:1 . Disappointing that it's not a huge change for the amount of work needed. Maybe just need more coffee to brainstorm.



I would like to brush up on my tig skills so I could try to make some bumpers. Or I could be lazy and just use my mapp torch lol. Got a few things to do today but I'll try and squeeze in time to try it.



Could very well be. I was just counting the rounds in:eek:ut. IIRC it was just shy of a 2:1.
 
So tried brazing up a bumper and lets just say it didnt work out lol. Using my mapp torch with silver solder on 1/8 rod and thin guage steel and had a hell of a time trying to make clean joints. Browsing some 3d printers and debating on if it would be worth it or not.
 
do you know what connectors are on the barrage? did you need to change the connectors on the larger nihm batt installed.how much run-time you got now
 
do you know what connectors are on the barrage? did you need to change the connectors on the larger nihm batt installed.how much run-time you got now
They are flat micro connectors stock, probably got around 40min runtime. Also I did have to change the connector , but soldering gun makes quick work of that or even a crimp. . I might start using one of my 2cell lipos with an alarm so I have more than one battery for it.
 
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Finally got a working servo on this junker to. Hitec HS-65MG that I had from a spare parts rig. Perfect fit and works like a charm!

2Muk97X.jpg


At full compressed suspension on the front end servo arm clears the steering linkage by like .5mm so thats enough clearance in my books :mrgreen:

umpnOnu.jpg


Been on the lookout for some sumo axles to maybe make 4 wheel steer happen on this! Would be a interesting build to make happen. No rush on finding any, also being in Canada defiantly makes it a little harder.
 
Well one month later I have a tiny update on this :mrgreen:

Been making some 3d prints for my other rc's and decided this one needs something done to it. I never really liked the flatdeck that came stock and having obtained a free extra body I thought i'll try and make a real bed for it. Here's a very rough version printed out.

VTYt2y9.jpg


It's very "box" looking right now but I still have a lot of work on the CAD drawing. Some additions are hopefully a headache rack, fender flares, and try to cover up all the see through space on the top portion of the bed. I will say I do like the look of a real truck box on this thing! I should have some more updates soon for it.
 
Well did some more changes to the design so its easier on the eyes

FleMwd8.jpg


gXbVxFh.jpg


Looks pretty slick now. I did about 50% fill on the bed to try and get a balance between strength and weight. Seems fairly tough right now but its also heavier than the stock flatbed but Ill deal with it for now. Lot's of space for a different esc and receiver or whatever I want to add.
 
Since I finally did something in this thread in over a month I thought I would try to continue with some more tech :mrgreen:

If any of you have read through this thread you'll know I bought some orlandoo metal driveshafts awhile and have been collecting dust so I would put them on.

Heres the link to the shafts used : https://www.amainhobbies.com/orland...um-center-33-drive-shaft-olhmd5350-33/p568572

These are a bolt on driveshafts with no chopping involved with my RC4WD motor and tranny. There is a little slop at the axle output since these are full round output and stock is half round but should still work good in this little beast.

Oh also don't mind the JB weld on the center transmission mount, there was some slight melting of the plastic right there :flipoff:

H9Wa9Qj.jpg
 
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