• Welcome to RCCrawler Forums.

    It looks like you're enjoying RCCrawler's Forums but haven't created an account yet. Why not take a minute to register for your own free account now? As a member you get free access to all of our forums and posts plus the ability to post your own messages, communicate directly with other members, and much more. Register now!

    Already a member? Login at the top of this page to stop seeing this message.

DIY Servo Saver, Shock Mod

NKlamerus

Quarry Creeper
Joined
Aug 4, 2020
Messages
211
Location
Springfield
Posting this here so others looking into doing the same can follow, I'm u4 racing and probably what others would call bashing

I found one post here on the forum where someone was using an internal spring shock from hot racing as a drag link and decided to look into it

Installing in an Axial Bomber, the standard drag length is ~110mm, but by flipping the servo 180, a 90mm drag link will work

Based on the specs of the "RC Lions" shock I ordered, they are 100mm fully extended, 72mm at full compression, which places the "plunger" at 86mm when it is halfway through the shock reservoir, allowing the most adjustably

After unscrewing the top and bottom caps of the reservoir, I simply removed one of the rubber washers, one of the plastic shoulder flanges and the spring, and instead put some air line tubing on both sides, it's just large enough to fit over the shaft, and just small enough to stay cylindrical inside the reservoir without folding.

Air line tubing=fish tank air line, usually silicone and thick wall. The stuff I bought just so happens to be drip line for hydroponics.

Screw it back together and install as a drag link.

First Impressions;

The most amount of play is actually in the ball end links, silicone tubing might be too soft, I may try rubber fuel hose

Other than that I think it's looks great, maybe a little more spring at the moment than a Kimbrough 124

The plunger isn't actually centered at the moment, the air line is probably 3:1 as far as length goes, I planned on using a longer endlink than the one provided but the shaft is smaller than any endlink I have at the moment.

Here's a video of my pushing the tires, servo is on and centered

https://youtu.be/_ruXHGrmREo
e27904a7bdfa736c701af69ee8b2f9f3.jpg
543da9aed3c6de73cb79bee3869189a8.jpg
ae0de046fcac8bb6675b3b0ff366679e.jpg
c696e5a6da1b46837f04260a586c59f4.jpg
 
Flip it around so the big side is closer to the servo so it looks like a hydraulic ram use a round servo horn and paint it silver to look like a break roter kinda like a rockwell axle then glue some wires on the shock and to the servo to look like hydraulic lines




YRGYmmhl.jpg
 
Last edited:
Flip it around so the big side is closer to the servo so it looks like a hydraulic ram use a round servo horn and paint it silver to look like a break roter kinda like a rockwell axle then glue some wires on the shock and to the servo to look like hydraulic lines




YRGYmmhl.jpg
I may try that in my next run, thanks for the tips!
 
I ran this and a Kimbrough 124 while climbing up all the stairs, logs, and rocks around the house

I think the shock has less "give", and definetly holds center better.

The Kimbrough provides a little more give, but also has a lot of play at center.

ba89f8ce723ee81e5f66d18e0da50423.jpg
 
Back
Top