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Dingo Body needs.... something.....???

Here he is so far.

After I got enough rice paper on the figure, and it dried well,
I painted on some of the raw/un-cut white glue over the
the entire "sweater" portion with a medium stiff brush.

I did this a few times to smooth things out a bit, letting it dry in between,
but being a sweater, I didnt bother going so far as I did on the MOG figure
because that was a T-shirt, and I wanted more texture on this.

After things dried once more, I folded some of the rice paper over on
itself to make a collar and cuffs, because I wanted a touch
more depth as I plan to paint the sweater a darker color,
and felt this would add dimention.

The next step is a few nice coats of clear gloss paint. (acrylic)

This does several things for me. It seals the water based white glue and
gives me something to paint against that wont affect the glue with
the brush because the paint is water based, and gives me a shiny smooth surface to place a sticker or two. It also hardens the entire surface
so I dont damage it while working with it further.

After I get my sticker(s) on, I will spray it all with a flat clear,
that seals the sticker(s) on very well, (and takes the shine off of them)
and gives the over all figure a more life-like appearance,
and less like plastic.

I used lacquer on the MOG figure for all sprays, because its all I had.
This time around, all I have is the acrylics, so wish me luck!

As this, after all that work, might be the last pic of this figure I take
if it gets ruined by using acrylic spray paints LOL!

DSCF2288.jpg
 
OK, Here ya go... all painted, stickered, and mounted up.
Cheap, easy way to get the naked off your wrestling figure driver.

Its quite water resistant too, after all the spray coats are put on,
But I havent tried one in a totaly submerged situation.

Only one screw holds it on tho, from under the body,
so it would be very easy to remove it to go under water
even in the field.


DSCF2291.jpg



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I decided to try and fabricate a master of a tow ring this afternoon,
as something that I could cast in resin, but also useing the lost wax method to cast pieces in metal.

While that wont happen for a while, I thought I should post
up the pics for the folks that mentioned they wanted to
try working with styrene, because there are some useful
points and ideas to be shared.

The first thing I had to do was make some 2.0mm straight
rod into tight, tiny circles without it snapping in half.

I did that by slowly wrapping it around a piece of tube that
was the right size for the rings inner opening.

I glued the starting end of the solid rod to the end of the tube,
and just kept gently flexing it into a coil over it,
then glued the finishing end of the rod to the tube again
to hold the coil in place.


DSCF2294.jpg




After the CA dried, I dipped the coil into boiling water for about
4 minutes, and then dipped it in luke warm water to cool it quickly.
This causes the styrene rod to hold its shape much
like tempering steel does.

After it cooled, I was able to snip circles off of the coil to work with,
bend it back a bit, and cut an opening to glue opposing circles onto,
as you can see in this next pic...


DSCF2296.jpg



After cutting the opposing half circles to make the top flat and even,
but still have that curved back section, I glued a tube with a 2mm ID on to the top to duplicate the attachment points.

Then I razor sawed the tube to shape, (which I put on as one piece across
both ends of the rings tops to maintain proper alignment)
and after some very tedious micro-sanding,
I ended up with what you see on this dime...

All three components can fit on that dime too, with room to spare!
Very tiny, and scale, indeed.


DSCF2297.jpg



To make the locking nut, I used tubing with a slightly less than 2mm ID
and scraped a level spot along the length with an Xacto blade.
Then I flipped it 180*, scraped again, then flip 90* scrape, etc. etc...
untill I got a hex shape on the outside.

(kind of silly, I know, as I will use actual small nuts and bolts,
but the technique is valid for other small hex shapes one might need,
like the end of a bolt with the nut on it on an outside surface..)

Sorry I didnt get pics of it painted black, silver, red or whatever color,
but as I plan to use this piece as a master for future castings,
I couldnt contaminate it.

Yet, this is what it looks like mounted on an Axial SCX front bumper,
in its raw color and form, and in all its glory.......

(2X8mm bolt BTW)


DSCF2301.jpg


DSCF2300.jpg


I hope you all approve of my efforts, but to be honest,
this is one of those items I just wanted to try out.
The resin copies would just be for show. (of course)

Even metal copies this small will be weak for actual use at this size.

If you plan on actually useing the tow hooks,
your going to have to thin out your wallet a bunch
and buy the RC4WD ones "thumbsup"

(like I probably will... LOL!!!)
 
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I am not sure who cares,
but some might wonder how I test my rigs after I build them.
(can you tell Im hung-up on the bumper build ideas, to even post this?)
LOL! :lmao::lmao::lmao: :evil: :roll: :cry::cry::cry::cry::cry::cry:

Besides, your all getting a little look into my private life anyway, right???

Dont worry, Im getting close to figuring out what I want to do.....
and finally have all the build materials in-hand.
(for a build-by-eye-guy like me, that is essential!
I have to have it all right in front of me, to know where/when to begin)

I even dug up and found the faux Wild Willy winch face piece that was holding my measurements back for starting the front bumper,
because it pretty much revolved around that one piece....
and the internal servo-winch tube needed to know where to go too.

BUT ANYWAY, here is my little back yard test course.

I change it around once in a while to keep things fresh and challenging,
but the main idea is to see what my various mods do to improve
my rigs abilities, so it grows and changes as my build/modding skills
and truck performance allows.


DSCF2304.jpg


DSCF2305.jpg


DSCF2306.jpg


DSCF2307.jpg


DSCF2308.jpg


That is a kids swing-set climbing wall against the stairs BTW,
filled with expanded foam, and covered with paint-on truck bed lining.

I run a hose down it from the top to simulate a running stream
when the mood hits me, and the rig I run allows a bit of water on it.

The guy on Cragslist bought it for $300 because his children said
it was something they MUST HAVE!. A year later, it got used 4 times,
and he kept lowering the price until I picked it up for, get this....

35 BUCKS! It cost a bunch to make it crawlable tho, dont get me wrong.
And even dry, its the most difficult part of the entire course. "thumbsup"


The rest of my back yard is a tiny figure-8 speed course for
my Traxxas Slash 4X4 Ultimate, but here is the cool thing....

I built a bunch of foam "rock" boards, like they show you how to do
on the Axial web site, but only 2X3 feet in size.

Not only can I put these in the house and re-arange them to infinate
patterns, (winter) but I can also lay them out on the Slash course,
and along with my rock trail I can time my Top Truck Challenge skills!


DSCF2302.jpg


DSCF2309.jpg


OR, even lay them up on my other stairs to see what my Wraith can do...

:twisted: (almost made it up to the top once too!) LOL LOL "thumbsup"

Have to add some sand to the paint-on truck bed liner next spring, I think.
Its cool, but like black moss..............
 
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Here's the link to the tow shackles....I bookmark cool threads (like this one) that have good ideas/ how-to's in them :)

http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/scale-accessories/353538-my-take-scale-tow-shackles.html


OK, thats freaking cool........

Thanks for the link!!!!

Made me think of a gun product I have used in the past,
if you use aluminum cotter pins.

Forgive the random outer link, quickest find after a Google search that got a hit,
so I am not recomending any particular outside vendor.

BUT it shows the product bottle, that many WalMarts still sell,
yadda, yadda........

I wish some of OUR vendors would carry a few bottles of these formulas.
There is blackening for brass, copper, bare steel, and other metals too,
all from Birchwood Casey...

Anybody that has firearms, or has been to a Funshow,
knows what PermaBlue is!


Birchwood Casey: Finishing Details
 
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I'll show the d rings when I get to my PC..love the course..plan on starting mine tomorrow..ive got an idea for a portable obstacle I want to try out and if it works I'll post it up!


BULL COOKIES!

I want to know what your thinking of doing RIGHT NOW!!

:lmao:......... :twisted: .......... :roll: .......... "thumbsup" ......... 8) .......... :flipoff:

;-)


> LOL, Like Im King Shit or somthing?
> Bet its going to be KILLER awesome!
> HUMM, I wonder what it is tho?
> Its cool, Ill find out soon.
> Best of luck bud!
> Screw you for teasing me tho!

> Its all good.

Ahhh, Avatar speak, never leave home without it.....
 
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I made some tow shackles. The first one (linked in my thread) turned out pretty good. The next 5 were a complete failure. I purchased different cotter pins and have had greater success (i'll post pics tonight). I've figured out that the shape of the cotter pin you start with is key to the final product. Apparently different manufacturers have different processes for bending cotter pins and some are nice and round and others have odd shapes at the end. Tractor Supply has the perfect shape cotter pins and you can get a box of 30 or so for 5 bucks (vs the 4 bucks I spent on 5 pins from Ace).
 
Sorry I have been away for a bit.
I have parts in the mail and on order that I need final measurements on
before I continue.

I got caught up in a Tamiya Super ModClod build while
I am waiting for the parts too. :shock:
Found a local guy who duped the old Sassy Chassis!!!!

Bubba, PM ME!

I want 20 schackles and 20 hooks...........$$$$

Now get on it, because if you cant next-day-air them to me,
I expect you to rent a plane, get on the flight,
and hand deliver them to me by tomorrow.
Even if you have to do the work on the plane!
(King Shit LOL!!!!!)

But seriously Bro, thats some SWEET FAB/MOD WORK!

Best I have seen on cotter pin conversions!

I might have to let go of a few of my Jerry cans if you want to trade?

LMK
 
Sorry folks...

This might be the last few Pics I get to upload on this project
for a while.

When I inserted my camera chip/SD card in the reader this one last time
I heard a crunch that told me the connector pins were DONE!!!

I can not get the SD card to be recognized by the computer anymore
and I think these multi-port card-readers are a JOKE!!!!!
Far too sensitive, because they take round pegs in square holes. ??? :evil:

But at least I can show my new wheels and tires that came in the mail today.

I wanted to take a far-side pic of them mounted,
but thats when things got broken, as I tried to upload that very pic....

OH WELL, I actually have a new OEM multi-card-reader to install
but Ill be damned if I can find a time to actually replace it.

Forgive me, will you please?


Anyway, here are the LAST FEW pics I could actually upload,
before my reader got busted..... minus the flat-on side shot..... :cry:

If life was an actual person, Id kick his ****ing ass!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


DSCF2315.jpg


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Nice, looking Very Landy "thumbsup"



That means the world to me coming from you Geoff.

Not just because YOU are actually from the UK,
but because I have seen YOUR D series build posts also! :shock:"thumbsup"

I am very pleased that you approve of my efforts.8)
 
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