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Curt's Dlux Superlite Berg-ler

Got my electrics. Im still waiting on gears. But these will get laid out fairly soon.
 

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Front axle mocked up. Lookin mighty fine. Chassis comin soon.
 

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Tuesday mean practice at the BYB compound so running my XR tonight. It worked just fine, but the sweet news is Nabil was up here visiting and came to play. Thats good news in and of its self. The reason this bit of info makes it into this build thread is the hand me down Secret Agent 3.5 he gave to me. Cant thank him enough. What a totally cool dude!
 

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I have a desire to make my own lowers for this so im trying to figure out the best way to go at this.

Here's my idea feel free to correct me as im taking this on with very little experience.

Im going to set my axles in a jig which will get my wheel base right at 12.5 with the axles stationary I can take a total lower mount to lower mount. Subtract chassis and divide remainder into 60/40.

Sound right?
 
What I normally do is set the axles at close to desired WB. Then I attach my shocks to the axles and to the chassis (both at the end, or both one hole in, etc) then I start measuring for links. If you do it without springs on the shocks, you can tell how things WB will sit at full compression. Obviously WB will be longest when all the lower link positions line up straight. You can use a jig to help, but one end needs to be slotted with the max at the 12.5" this will allow you to cycle a hit and really figure out what you find as ideal.

The reason I do it this way is if you jig the chassis and axles and just do links, your shock may not reach or may be too long, especially if your start aiming for a specific link number.

I have a desire to make my own lowers for this so im trying to figure out the best way to go at this.

Here's my idea feel free to correct me as im taking this on with very little experience.

Im going to set my axles in a jig which will get my wheel base right at 12.5 with the axles stationary I can take a total lower mount to lower mount. Subtract chassis and divide remainder into 60/40.

Sound right?
 
What I normally do is set the axles at close to desired WB. Then I attach my shocks to the axles and to the chassis (both at the end, or both one hole in, etc) then I start measuring for links. If you do it without springs on the shocks, you can tell how things WB will sit at full compression. Obviously WB will be longest when all the lower link positions line up straight. You can use a jig to help, but one end needs to be slotted with the max at the 12.5" this will allow you to cycle a hit and really figure out what you find as ideal.

The reason I do it this way is if you jig the chassis and axles and just do links, your shock may not reach or may be too long, especially if your start aiming for a specific link number.

That seems to make sense, but wont that set my chassis to a specific hole on the chassis for shock placement? Either way I'll give it a try thanks Travis!
 
That seems to make sense, but wont that set my chassis to a specific hole on the chassis for shock placement? Either way I'll give it a try thanks Travis!

Not necessarily. I guess it's hard to explain how I actually do it. the CDW jig would be graet because i'm pretty sure that one was slotted for one of the axles.

If you do it the way you are mentioning, and just base the chassis position off a predetermined link length, som may end up needing a 3.5" shock at one end and a 4" at the other, My way more or less ensures that the shocks you have will work
 
I have a desire to make my own lowers for this so im trying to figure out the best way to go at this.

Here's my idea feel free to correct me as im taking this on with very little experience.

Im going to set my axles in a jig which will get my wheel base right at 12.5 with the axles stationary I can take a total lower mount to lower mount. Subtract chassis and divide remainder into 60/40.

Sound right?

Sounds like a good start. That method will get you in the ballpark. It will be short though, roughly 1/4"-3/8" because the links are triangulated towards the center of the chassis making them have to reach farther inward. They'll end up needing a few mm added back into your remaining dimensions to maintain 12.5".

Personally I would attach the shocks without the springs though so you have general idea where the suspension will max out its compression. You might have to fiddle with placement to get the shock angle your after and the chassis bias. It's kind of a juggling act.

I have a cdw jig just for that. I can bring sun if you need.

Like this one? This is what I used to get my sucker punch close to where it needed to be. The very end of the slot put the wheelbase exactly at 12.5".

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I'v got a set of big bores which have been milled down, thanks Crawler13, but they will be too long for the 3.5 needed for the SA. I know I could get some SCX10 shocks, but everyone complains about them leaking. has anyone ever tried putting a 3mm screw through the cap mod and using shorter rodends?
 
I'v got a set of big bores which have been milled down, thanks Crawler13, but they will be too long for the 3.5 needed for the SA. I know I could get some SCX10 shocks, but everyone complains about them leaking. has anyone ever tried putting a 3mm screw through the cap mod and using shorter rodends?


I've always used 3mm and the 3mm traxxas rod ends if doing a cap mod. If you are not planning to invert your shocks you should just run stock caps and the excellent DLux big bore shock standoffs.
 
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Well its been over a month since I even touched this project on my bench. I stole a couple min last night put together my tie rod, drag link and attached my lower links. Ive aborted using the SA on this build... its going on to a spare set of xr axles. Instead I have a hall style v4 on its way. Im super excited about it too. I'll posts pics soon
 
Funny, I was just going to post up and ask how its going. Glad to see youre back on it.
 
I'v got a set of big bores which have been milled down, thanks Crawler13, but they will be too long for the 3.5 needed for the SA. I know I could get some SCX10 shocks, but everyone complains about them leaking. has anyone ever tried putting a 3mm screw through the cap mod and using shorter rodends?

Here's what I do to not increase the length of the bb Curt, works great and really frees up shock movement vs the reg rod end mod, did this on the pro and shafty
3C7BA341-2154-4ED8-AFD1-8FFEB1F569DF-1941-0000017DB05ACAC3_zpsee451652.jpg
 
Funny, I was just going to post up and ask how its going. Glad to see youre back on it.

Yeah on top of grad school I started an internship/brand new teaching position. It has been chaos as I've been trying to settle in. But when you get a week off of work for "fall break" you take full advantage. Hopefully by mid-week I'll have the whole car mocked up and I can start drilling holes for set screws.
 
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