thewildblue77
Quarry Creeper
The spring fix on here looked to be for the DIG end. My main issue is not going into 2nd cleanly...the spring that end is fine, its more to do with the slider...and I suspect the servo saver.
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I have come up with an idea although not really had chance to look into it or put lots of thought into yet.
I’m thinking remove the servo saver and use a rod system like you would find on a nitro throttle or brake with either a small spring or bit of fuel tubing each end to act as a servo saver at the end points. I need to have a proper think about it but if you could get things small enough I can see why it wouldn’t work?
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I’m thinking remove the servo saver and use a rod system like you would find on a nitro throttle or brake with either a small spring or bit of fuel tubing each end to act as a servo saver at the end points. I need to have a proper think about it but if you could get things small enough I can see why it wouldn’t work?
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TooOldForThis
Rock Crawler
Something I did with the shift slider that may help-- I stuck a thin washer/shim on one screw in between the halves of the housing that come together to form the track for the slider. It makes the track for the slider a tiny bit wider, which might help keep the slider from binding up in the track.
I did this during initial assembly and mine has always shifted well, so I can't say how much of a difference it actually makes. Its free to try though.
I did this during initial assembly and mine has always shifted well, so I can't say how much of a difference it actually makes. Its free to try though.
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Well, I pulled the trigger. Got a standard kit for $275 on eBay. Got the trans and transfer case together. Shifting very smoothly so far. Had much more of an issue with the differentials feeling crunchy.
Also, my kit came with a little bag of metal pivot balls. Didn't think it came with those.
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Also, my kit came with a little bag of metal pivot balls. Didn't think it came with those.
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thewildblue77
Quarry Creeper
I did this today on both GOMs and it did make a difference...will see how it goes before I do a strip down to remove the servo saver.
soze
I wanna be Dave
I posted this in my build thread, but I'll also post it here... I spent time thinking about how to protect the shifter slot for the 2-speed transmission.
Do I cover it with lexan, somehow make a rubber boot?
In the end, my head was already fatigued from work and I just thought... 3M Tape.... piece of felt.... it'll work. LOL
Do I cover it with lexan, somehow make a rubber boot?
In the end, my head was already fatigued from work and I just thought... 3M Tape.... piece of felt.... it'll work. LOL
thewildblue77
Quarry Creeper
I cut up some ali sheet to cover mine...I posted this in my build thread, but I'll also post it here... I spent time thinking about how to protect the shifter slot for the 2-speed transmission.
Do I cover it with lexan, somehow make a rubber boot?
In the end, my head was already fatigued from work and I just thought... 3M Tape.... piece of felt.... it'll work. LOL
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Great ideas in here!
I spent some time yesterday trying to dial in my brother's Gom and one thing we did find is that the spring size for the shift forks is the same as the springs inside of most pens, the length is different but the diameter is a great match. We just cut them down to play with different lengths.
silver are pen springs black is stock (we had already cut the pen springs down)
This was all done after we eliminated the servo saver.
We had good results adjusting the length of the springs for the dig and high gear individually, but once we combined the 2 mods they did not work well together at all. Its seemed like the spring size on the dig shift fork needed more push, so we cut a slightly longer spring, for the high speed spring we cut it down because it looked like the spring when fully compressed was keeping the rod from reaching the 8mm mark (how far the rod sticks out) as noted in the manual.
There did seem to be something holding the shift fork or gears up on the dig end (maybe our longer spring?), it wouldn't engage properly and the slide seems to have some binding, it looked to be twisting at the end of the throw.
One other struggle was adjusting the end points, super easy when its open and has the shift cover off but once its all together the binding makes it so any trim adjustments seem to do nothing as its just seems locked up .
I wonder if the servo saver is possibly needed just so you can overshoot the end points in order to have a bunch of "push" on the linkage?
Im hoping the spring mods combined with the washer mod mentioned by TooOldForThis might improve things
I spent some time yesterday trying to dial in my brother's Gom and one thing we did find is that the spring size for the shift forks is the same as the springs inside of most pens, the length is different but the diameter is a great match. We just cut them down to play with different lengths.
silver are pen springs black is stock (we had already cut the pen springs down)
This was all done after we eliminated the servo saver.
We had good results adjusting the length of the springs for the dig and high gear individually, but once we combined the 2 mods they did not work well together at all. Its seemed like the spring size on the dig shift fork needed more push, so we cut a slightly longer spring, for the high speed spring we cut it down because it looked like the spring when fully compressed was keeping the rod from reaching the 8mm mark (how far the rod sticks out) as noted in the manual.
There did seem to be something holding the shift fork or gears up on the dig end (maybe our longer spring?), it wouldn't engage properly and the slide seems to have some binding, it looked to be twisting at the end of the throw.
One other struggle was adjusting the end points, super easy when its open and has the shift cover off but once its all together the binding makes it so any trim adjustments seem to do nothing as its just seems locked up .
I wonder if the servo saver is possibly needed just so you can overshoot the end points in order to have a bunch of "push" on the linkage?
Im hoping the spring mods combined with the washer mod mentioned by TooOldForThis might improve things
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thewildblue77
Quarry Creeper
After the washer mod...me and my son were out for about an hour or so....he had a couple of missed shifts to 2nd and I had none at all. His DIG wouldn't engage though ( I only have a 2 position 3rd channel) so I would imagine the stronger spring would help him. Good findings everyone 
thewildblue77
Quarry Creeper
CVA's arrived today...alll fitted. What I had noticed is one of my dog bones had snapped ! Loads more lock now...
If I want to add a second set of rear shocks...do I need 120mm ?
If I want to add a second set of rear shocks...do I need 120mm ?
TooOldForThis
Rock Crawler
Awhile back I was posting about the loose front wheels. Since then I've:
-Added front CVA's
-Replaced the front bearings with Fast Eddy bearings
-Replaced the stock plastic knuckle bushings with brass bushings from Gmade
-Shimmed the axles.
Somewhat surprisingly, the biggest improvement on the wheel looseness/play came from the shims. I haven't had a proper shim set until now, and I wanted to share what a good investment it is for the GOM. I bought a Tamiya set (below) which gets you 30 shims for around $5. They were much needed on the GOM and there's enough left over to do at least two other cars. Highly recommend!
-Added front CVA's
-Replaced the front bearings with Fast Eddy bearings
-Replaced the stock plastic knuckle bushings with brass bushings from Gmade
-Shimmed the axles.
Somewhat surprisingly, the biggest improvement on the wheel looseness/play came from the shims. I haven't had a proper shim set until now, and I wanted to share what a good investment it is for the GOM. I bought a Tamiya set (below) which gets you 30 shims for around $5. They were much needed on the GOM and there's enough left over to do at least two other cars. Highly recommend!
thewildblue77
Quarry Creeper
Where exactly did you shim the axles. My GOM is fine but my sons has a bit of wheel wobble...
TooOldForThis
Rock Crawler
Behind the wheel hex, between the axle pin and the knuckle bearing.
thewildblue77
Quarry Creeper
Thanks I will give that a try
So this is a bit anecdotal but my brother tried the washer mod (between the shift cover) in addition to trying out different length springs on the shift forks and claims the shifting its fixed, though he phrased it like "I'd like to say the Gom is fixed". He's understandably hesitant to say for sure its fixed but our last tests were a definitive failure so if its any better that's a good step.
I'm considering picking up a Gom too as I have a gift card burning a hole in my pocket, still not sure though.
I'm considering picking up a Gom too as I have a gift card burning a hole in my pocket, still not sure though.
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thewildblue77
Quarry Creeper
So far the washer mod has worked well for both our GOMs. Having another hour or so today. The GOM is really impressive, stock for stock seems to be more capable than my Bomber on my little homemade course. The weight distro at the front makes a massive difference. Tempted to try a brushless setup in it...but dont want to break anything.
Has anyone added extra rear shocks at all ?
Has anyone added extra rear shocks at all ?
I did some trailing with my brother today and the Gom held up well with the washer and spring mods, only 1 missed shift.
jimkill
Pebble Pounder
I’m really not sure about the transmission. The dig works well but I can’t really tell the difference between high and low.
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Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
TooOldForThis
Rock Crawler
There is a difference, but it's not a big difference. If you see no difference at all, it's probably not actually shifting.
thewildblue77
Quarry Creeper
Agreed, sounds like its stuck in a gear...
So no Thoughts on additional shock size on the rear ?
So no Thoughts on additional shock size on the rear ?
