Yea. I'm wanting to try that. It'll go in my money pit eventually.
Sent from my ONEPLUS A5010 using Tapatalk
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Sent from my ONEPLUS A5010 using Tapatalk
BLDS esc uses the same set of MOSFETs(think of MOSFETs as a bunch of tiny switches), regardless of its rotation direction. Therefore, the reverse will not have lower amp tolerance, its just programmed to be not as powerful as forward.
Jay-Em
Rock Crawler
You’re right, of course, I was thinking brushed ESC’s.
Reverse-running a BL Stock-spec motor with built-in timing will, however, unpleasantly increase Amp-draw, and càn overwhelm a BL ESC when specced a bit too close to the motor’s amp-rating. (Remember that You’re actually fooling the esc -via the sensor position- into triggering the winding-charge in starting a bit earlier, just like in a brushed motor)
For a normal 0-degree Sensored BL motor, there’s indeed no problem. Just reprogram the ESC for reverse running.
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Quite dead here, it seems... I'm taking out my GOM tonight for a drive. It's been quite a while. Swapped in stiffer rear oils, hoping it'll help a bit with how easily the rear twists too much, causing a front tire to lose contact and thus often making climbing impossible given the front weight bias.
I was just wondering if anyone's seen/heard anything about a new front bumper or any else for the cage? I'll need to fix the cage failure at the top at some point. However while that's easy enough since it's not near a joint, the front bumper remains essentially unfixable.
Of course I'll also need to fix the gear shifting at some point, but I've been putting it off what with the lack of driving and given how much work it involves - especially since I normally just use the fast gear anyway, even while crawling.
I was just wondering if anyone's seen/heard anything about a new front bumper or any else for the cage? I'll need to fix the cage failure at the top at some point. However while that's easy enough since it's not near a joint, the front bumper remains essentially unfixable.
Of course I'll also need to fix the gear shifting at some point, but I've been putting it off what with the lack of driving and given how much work it involves - especially since I normally just use the fast gear anyway, even while crawling.
soze
I wanna be Dave
I've been wanting to take my GOM out, just haven't had the time. My next outing I plan to take the GOM and HoBao DC-1 out.
Swaybar is really the way to go. I talked about it here somewhere, but I made one using a wire coat hanger.
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I'd say the sway bar is a must with this rig. My first impressions after seeing my Brother's Gom were that the axles flop around like an out of control MOA. The Bomber also has the same problems without a sway bar.
With 40wt oil now in both primary and secondary rear shocks, it was certainly more manageable. Didn't really experience the lifted front tire thing during one hour of driving - or, at least not the crawling part, at high speeds it'll of course variably happen. The session was then ended by a lost e-clip resulting in a detached rear driveshaft... Anyway, I'm not a fan of sway bars for this vehicle due to looks. I'm shallow like that ;-)
I had forgotten that the slipper needs looking at. It's just too loose. Way too often I end up stuck at even small obstacles because the slipper decides to prevent any and all wheelspin. Just another thing to add to the "required maintenance" list (if I had one - and I really should).
I was lucky not to fry any electronics today, had some very close acquaintances with some water puddles. I'm thinking I should have waterproof electronics just in case, but I don't want a too slow motor. But with brushed it seems a fast motor likely won't have torque for crawling. I'm currently running a 9.5t brushless and the speed is basically perfect, and no lack of torque whatsoever.
I had forgotten that the slipper needs looking at. It's just too loose. Way too often I end up stuck at even small obstacles because the slipper decides to prevent any and all wheelspin. Just another thing to add to the "required maintenance" list (if I had one - and I really should).
I was lucky not to fry any electronics today, had some very close acquaintances with some water puddles. I'm thinking I should have waterproof electronics just in case, but I don't want a too slow motor. But with brushed it seems a fast motor likely won't have torque for crawling. I'm currently running a 9.5t brushless and the speed is basically perfect, and no lack of torque whatsoever.
Well IMHO these only look wrong without a sway bar, almost all of the real things have them in the rear (up front too). To each his own but you sound like you could really benefit from one the way you drive fast, and even when crawling. Flex isn't everything in fact its a hindrance when overdone.
And on brushed motors Speed is a non issue with the 2 speed as is torque (or it wont be once you fix your 2 speed), I'm very pleased with the 10T Holmes Hobbies crawlmaster 550. I cant think of a better brushed motor, it has plenty of torque, speed and amazing slow speed start up. Just keep in mind its a 5 slot/stator so a 10T motor is more like a 25T (normal 3 slot equivalent). But if you go brushed in order to get it wet I'd go for the 21T Holmes 550 sealed can, I started out with that motor and my brother also uses one in his Gom, its a great inexpensive motor.
You could also try something a bit more extreme in the shocks like diff fluid if needed.
And on brushed motors Speed is a non issue with the 2 speed as is torque (or it wont be once you fix your 2 speed), I'm very pleased with the 10T Holmes Hobbies crawlmaster 550. I cant think of a better brushed motor, it has plenty of torque, speed and amazing slow speed start up. Just keep in mind its a 5 slot/stator so a 10T motor is more like a 25T (normal 3 slot equivalent). But if you go brushed in order to get it wet I'd go for the 21T Holmes 550 sealed can, I started out with that motor and my brother also uses one in his Gom, its a great inexpensive motor.
You could also try something a bit more extreme in the shocks like diff fluid if needed.
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Holmes motors aren't really available here and are way too expensive for brushed motors for my liking. On my Komodo I have an inexpensive 35T Etronix and it certainly works fine for that car, far more torque than what the tires can provide in grip. But it really is quite slow. 14-15T are the fastest brushed motors that that particular retailer carries. I suppose I could try one of those on a budget, assuming I can snag another cheap Hobbywing 1080 ESC at a discount during winter. Not much point "upgrading" in a hurry since not likely to drive all that much before snows come, so better to patiently look for good deals even on such cheap products.
mmflytie
Newbie
Could someone please explain the difference between high low and dig( as in how many axles are turning in each mode)
Thanks
Marc
Just finished my GR1 and I'm not sure the three position gearing is working correctly
Thanks
Marc
Just finished my GR1 and I'm not sure the three position gearing is working correctly
mikemcE
I wanna be Dave
Dig locks or unlocks the rear axle as set.
Hi /Lo is wheel speed vs torque......high is “faster”
Hang up and Drive
Hi /Lo is wheel speed vs torque......high is “faster”
Hang up and Drive
