• Welcome to RCCrawler Forums.

    It looks like you're enjoying RCCrawler's Forums but haven't created an account yet. Why not take a minute to register for your own free account now? As a member you get free access to all of our forums and posts plus the ability to post your own messages, communicate directly with other members, and much more. Register now!

    Already a member? Login at the top of this page to stop seeing this message.

Choosing a motor and ESC for your Wraith - Gearing Added!

Phew, made it to the last page finally! I have an AE-2 and an integy pro lathe 35t motor on stock gearing. Battery I'm using is a 7-cell nimh. I currently don't have an external BEC. First time out on some rocks it seemed to bind up way too easily. Would gearing be the problem or would not having an external BEC have that much of an impact? Or should I look elsewhere for the problem. I just remember my old all steel homemade Jeep JK on 2.2s would twist the tires all up before it would stall and I ran a novak 55t in it. The next size pinion down I have is a 16t so that puts me at 5:1. Would that help the stalling? I believe the gearing you recommended for my application, all around crawling and trail riding, was 4.5:1. Then I guess if I wanted my wheel speed back then volting up would be the answer there. Making the jump to lipo would be a big jump as my charger I have isn't lipo capable so there's a $100 initial investment.

Also, one thing I didn't see covered, what do you want to gear which way in regards to the pinion and spur for better motor life? For instance, stock gearing is 80/20(4:10). So would it be better, theoretically if you wanted to keep the same final drive, to go down on the pinion and spur say 64/16 and make the motor have to turn faster to run the truck the same speed or go up on the pinion and spur say 96/24 and make the motor turn slower to run the truck the same speed? I guess in short, is it better to turn the engine faster, maybe more cooling by turning faster, or turn the engine slower, maybe less work on the motor?

As others have said, thanks a bunch for all your advice and input Harley!!!
 
Last edited:
Phew, made it to the last page finally! I have an AE-2 and an integy pro lathe 35t motor on stock gearing. Battery I'm using is a 7-cell nimh. I currently don't have an external BEC. First time out on some rocks it seemed to bind up way too easily. Would gearing be the problem or would not having an external BEC have that much of an impact? Or should I look elsewhere for the problem. I just remember my old all steel homemade Jeep JK on 2.2s would twist the tires all up before it would stall and I ran a novak 55t in it. The next size pinion down I have is a 16t so that puts me at 5:1. Would that help the stalling? I believe the gearing you recommended for my application, all around crawling and trail riding, was 4.5:1. Then I guess if I wanted my wheel speed back then volting up would be the answer there. Making the jump to lipo would be a big jump as my charger I have isn't lipo capable so there's a $100 initial investment.

Also, one thing I didn't see covered, what do you want to gear which way in regards to the pinion and spur for better motor life? For instance, stock gearing is 80/20(4:10). So would it be better, theoretically if you wanted to keep the same final drive, to go down on the pinion and spur say 64/16 and make the motor have to turn faster to run the truck the same speed or go up on the pinion and spur say 96/24 and make the motor turn slower to run the truck the same speed? I guess in short, is it better to turn the engine faster, maybe more cooling by turning faster, or turn the engine slower, maybe less work on the motor?

As others have said, thanks a bunch for all your advice and input Harley!!!

If everything just stops then yes you need a BEC. Anything other than 2s lipo or 6 cell NiMH needs a BEC.

Pinion or spur makes no difference. The motor has set speed it can turn, gearing too tall will make crazy amounts of heat. You want to stay in the general area I recommended for gearing. The other thing is that not all gearing will fit. The motor plate can only adjust so far.
 
So taking your statement of "anything other than 2s lipo or 6 cell NiMH needs a BEC," would it be a wise decision to add a BEC with the new Hitec 5995TG servo I just ordered? I'm running a 5000 mah 2s lipo.
 
So taking your statement of "anything other than 2s lipo or 6 cell NiMH needs a BEC," would it be a wise decision to add a BEC with the new Hitec 5995TG servo I just ordered? I'm running a 5000 mah 2s lipo.

I can't say 100% that you would need it but by spending the $20 to put one in you'll get more out of your servo. So yes, I would add one.
 
I had a Holmes 27t Torquemaster / Sidewinder SV2 / 3S combo in both of ours, running 14/60 32p gearing. After one pack in one, and one and a half in the other, running pretty hard in a construction site (small hill climbing, basic bashing around), it cooked both motors. Send them back to JRH, he said it melted the solder off the armatures.

The ONLY reason I'm posting this is to give those of you that plan on bashing these rigs on the harder side to consider going brushless. JRH recommends regearing down to 5.5:1, which is much slower than what I plan on using my rig for. My fault for not knowing that is what he recommended for gearing with that motor.

SO, time to order some MMPs and Tekin Redlines =)
 
So, in an attempt to gear down my stock Wraith, I purchased 15T pinion. When I put it on I figured out that 15T pinion doesn't create mesh with 80T spur - even if I move the motor as close as possible, it is still 0.5mm away from creating mesh with the 80t spur. Is there any way I could have figured this beforehand?

P.S. I ended up going with 87t/15t, which is kinda slow, but will save the life of my stock motor till HH have new stock of their motors.
 
So, in an attempt to gear down my stock Wraith, I purchased 15T pinion. When I put it on I figured out that 15T pinion doesn't create mesh with 80T spur - even if I move the motor as close as possible, it is still 0.5mm away from creating mesh with the 80t spur. Is there any way I could have figured this beforehand?

P.S. I ended up going with 87t/15t, which is kinda slow, but will save the life of my stock motor till HH have new stock of their motors.

Sure there are lots of ways to figure it but the easy way is to just look and use an educated guess.
 
I just ordered the Robinson 48p 80t steel slipper/spur and a pro 4, my question is...does anyone make a 5mm pinion in 48p to work with this combo? or can I drill out a 4mm to fit the 5mm shaft on the pro 4?
 
If everything just stops then yes you need a BEC. Anything other than 2s lipo or 6 cell NiMH needs a BEC.

Pinion or spur makes no difference. The motor has set speed it can turn, gearing too tall will make crazy amounts of heat. You want to stay in the general area I recommended for gearing. The other thing is that not all gearing will fit. The motor plate can only adjust so far.

So the gear set doesn't matter, only the end ratio? I'm just asking because I see you recommending for my application a 84/18, 4.7:1. Only spur I have that will work is the stock 80t so I can change the pinion to get close to that since I have a handfull of those. 80/16(5:1) gets me close. So I could use that until I can get a selection of spurs and it have the same effect as going up on the spur and down on the pinion by only going down further on the pinion. And yes I know not everything will fit, I was speaking hypothetically. I have to file the slots just slightly to get the mesh right with the 80/16. Thanks for the info on the BEC too.
 
So the gear set doesn't matter, only the end ratio? I'm just asking because I see you recommending for my application a 84/18, 4.7:1. Only spur I have that will work is the stock 80t so I can change the pinion to get close to that since I have a handfull of those. 80/16(5:1) gets me close. So I could use that until I can get a selection of spurs and it have the same effect as going up on the spur and down on the pinion by only going down further on the pinion. And yes I know not everything will fit, I was speaking hypothetically. I have to file the slots just slightly to get the mesh right with the 80/16. Thanks for the info on the BEC too.

If EVERYTHING cuts out (meaning servo and motor) then the gearing is not effecting it. You can be geared too high and stall the motor but the steering would still work at that point.
 
Are you running a little higher speed brushed or brushless (Examples: 13t CrawlMaster, 27t TorqueMaster, 13.5 Redline)? Short Story, 56/14 32p

Did you read the post #2? If you are running something I suggested (or similar to that) then the stock gear ratio is probably fine for you. The problem is that the little 48 pitch gears can't hold the power, you need to upgrade to 32 pitch gears. The stock ratio of 4:1 is fine, so you just need to equivalent in 32p. 56/14 is the same ratio. You can still run the stock spur cover with this setup as well. If you want a little more strength and tooth contact area you can go to 60/15 but the stock spur cover is likely a no go. Also with the 60/15 setup some motors require you to do a little filing on the motor plate to slide the motor over further. If you are running/wanting a Tekin Pro4 (or similar high power brushless) then see the last section.

kind of confuse i was looking for 32 spur gear on tower but it seem there quite a few which one is the one?
I would like to use the spur cover
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0095p?FVPROFIL=++&FVSEARCH=Spur+Gear+32P&search=Go
is that the only part to change for the motor upgrade? (not talking about bullet proofing it, just for gearing)
Thanks!
 
Last edited:
I was meaning in general, not just in my case. I know I need to add a BEC justnever needed one before but those trucks were always geared alot lower.
 
I was meaning in general, not just in my case. I know I need to add a BEC justnever needed one before but those trucks were always geared alot lower.

I don't think you're grasping what I'm saying. If EVERYTHING cuts out you need a BEC. If the motor alone stalls then it's probably just gearing.

Here is a rule of thumb for a crawler: Does it have 4 or more wheels? Then you need a BEC.
 
kind of confuse i was looking for 32 spur gear on tower but it seem there quite a few which one is the one?
I would like to use the spur cover
TowerHobbies.com | Search Results
is that the only part to change for the motor upgrade? (not talking about bullet proofing it, just for gearing)
Thanks!


I use Kimbrough. You will also need a 32 pinion.
 
Hi after some debate I decided to go with a tekin 13.5 your post say to use a 32 spur gear but it seem there are a few different ones could you post a link to a good one that fit with out having to cut drill etc.

now I see the same problem with the 32 pinion which one?
I get confuse cause they have 2 different number example 32P 13T

I think you should include a link or part number on your 4 post that way people know they are getting the right part from the beginning.
Thanks!
 
Hi after some debate I decided to go with a tekin 13.5 your post say to use a 32 spur gear but it seem there are a few different ones could you post a link to a good one that fit with out having to cut drill etc.

now I see the same problem with the 32 pinion which one?
I get confuse cause they have 2 different number example 32P 13T

I think you should include a link or part number on your 4 post that way people know they are getting the right part from the beginning.
Thanks!

I explain in the post what the two numbers mean. The first is the gear pitch, the second is the number of teeth.

I am not going to go through and post links to every spur and pinion option, it just takes too long. I use kimbrough, look for one of those. You need a 32p 56t spur and a 32p 14t pinion.
 
Back
Top