Cherokee build - Very Scale - SCX10

[Spidernad]

I swapped out the 100mm shocks and tried a set of 80mm ones to get the lowest ride I could.
This is just for running the low "stock Cherokee" look.
The shocks are actually too short, the suspension is almost at the top of its travel and the shocks are keeping it from going down any too.
I will have to make some shorter springs for the 100mm shocks so it will sit low but still have full up and down travel

 

[Spidernad]

Here it is with the same low stance and the 1.55 Mud Thrashers.

 

[dots36]

Nice work Spidernad. I'm in the middle of customizing one myself.

 

[Spidernad]

Nice work Spidernad. I'm in the middle of customizing one myself.

Thanks! Post a pic when your done.

 

[fernando]

That's scale for sure. Look great."thumbsup"

 

[Spidernad]

That's scale for sure. Look great."thumbsup"

Thanks!"thumbsup"

 

[Spidernad]

love it, looks awsome

Thanks man!"thumbsup"

 

[Spidernad]

While I was changing the shocks I figured it would be a good time to finish up the "open" diffs.

The high angle front axles shafts also arrived so I put them in along with the upgraded steering parts I had ordered a while back, and all new bearings.

The aluminum steering knuckles don't come with the 3x10mm button head machine screws, so I had these 3x12mm ones that I cut down to 3x10mm.
Axial needs to include these with the knuckles! Are you listening Axial?

Don't fill your axle housings up with sand, dirt etc. like I did. Make sure to put some screws in these four holes in your axle housings. I used 3x6 button head screws. If you use a four link, like I did in the rear, these holes will already be filled.

Also this hole in the rear (and front too if you don't use the stock axle servo mount) has to be plugged. (the one on the right with the button head screw in it.)

 

[Nvghostrider]

I've been reading a ton on the scx10 a while before getting mine and I think this is the first recommendation to plug the axle holes I've seen. This and the heads up on the lack of hardware supplied with the axial aluminum knuckles are probably the best tips ive read in weeks. Thanks.

 

[klampykixx]

cherokees dont have lockable hubs.

must say tho, it looks great sitting lower!

 

[Mr.Joshua]

cherokees dont have lockable hubs.

must say tho, it looks great sitting lower!

They do if aftermarket axles are installed on it;-)

The rig is looking great!

 

[Dustinf]

hey, im still working at mine.. i got the tires you listed for me. THANKS. Also, how did you get your body so low without a droop kit? I took the gear cover off, but now the interior keeps hitting the battery tray and esc.. maybe i drilled the holes too far up (i only changed the rear links to get desired wheelbase).

I cant wait to start showing some pictures, i think itll look impressive. I have a perfectly scaled 1:10 city model (about 6 six feet long) to take pics of it in. the model is "zombie apocalypses" themed and is quite scale. anyway... that doesn't matter. your help is very much appreciated. and your build is my favorite so far. Love the "everyday jeep" look!

 

[klampykixx]

They do if aftermarket axles are installed on it;-)

arent we aiming for a "stock" look though? :lmao:

 

[Spidernad]

I've been reading a ton on the scx10 a while before getting mine and I think this is the first recommendation to plug the axle holes I've seen. This and the heads up on the lack of hardware supplied with the axial aluminum knuckles are probably the best tips ive read in weeks. Thanks.

Your welcome!

I should make a post about all the things I've found with the SCX10 that need addressing including the mistakes in the manual.
Like this one, when building the trans, where they tell you to use the spacer AX80009 - 5 that isn't used with the new style AX30435 outdrive shafts.

 

[Spidernad]

cherokees dont have lockable hubs.

must say tho, it looks great sitting lower!

Your right, good eye!

I like the way they look better than just a Nylock nut.
Kind of an old school 4wheeler thing.
I don't have them on there with the mesh Cherokee "Limited" wheels, just the steel spoke wheels.

 

[Spidernad]

hey, im still working at mine.. i got the tires you listed for me. THANKS. Also, how did you get your body so low without a droop kit? I took the gear cover off, but now the interior keeps hitting the battery tray and esc.. maybe i drilled the holes too far up (i only changed the rear links to get desired wheelbase).

I cant wait to start showing some pictures, i think itll look impressive. I have a perfectly scaled 1:10 city model (about 6 six feet long) to take pics of it in. the model is "zombie apocalypses" themed and is quite scale. anyway... that doesn't matter. your help is very much appreciated. and your build is my favorite so far. Love the "everyday jeep" look!

Hey Dustinf, Glad you got the tires.

That City model sounds really cool. If you make a thread on here about it please post a link to it on this thread so we can have a look. Or if you want to post some pics here that would be cool to.

So where is your battery tray, front or rear. And is it the stock ESC.

Glad you like the build so far.

 

[Spidernad]

Also, how did you get your body so low without a droop kit?

Forgot to answer your question.

I've been messing around with my shocks.
I tried 80mm shocks (see posts above) but they are too short to allow any down travel and are almost at the top of the suspension travel.

I think I will be going back to the 100mm shocks but cutting some shorter springs for them so it will still sit low but will allow the suspension to travel down.

 

[Spidernad]

While upgrading the steering parts I also got these metal linkage pivot balls, Axial Part # AXA1331 , to replace the stock plastic ones that wear out so quick.
I should probably just get all metal ball links but maybe when money permits.

 

[Spidernad]

A few notes about the RC4WD steel wheels.

First, The hardware is not the best.
The Allen screws that hold the wheel halves together are very small and the hex holes are inconsistent.
Some are too shallow, some the hex hole is too big (loose).
They will round out very easily and also ruin many an Allen wrench.
I had to grind off the end of my Allen wrench several times to get to a fresh tip and replaced some too.
Also, the threads will sometimes strip.
The screws are very tiny and it doesn't take much.
RC4WD sells a set of replacement screws and nuts for the wheels (no wonder) and I highly recommend getting a set with the wheel set.

Second, the holes where the small allen bolts go into the the aluminum piece are not flat, they are drilled instead of milled flat, so the bolt head doesn't have a flat surface to sit on, it is tapered from the drill tip and the edge of the bolt head digs into the taper.
It's one of the smaller issues with the manufacturing of the wheels so I only mention it as another point of the overall quality of the wheels.

Third, the 12mm hex hole in the aluminum piece that screws to the wheels is poorly machined and when you bolt the wheels to your SCX10 the hexes may become jammed into the hex hole, making it nearly impossible to remove the hex from the wheel.
If you already have yours stuck, it is easier to just let them live in there forever and buy some extra hexes for your other wheels from Axial, Part # AX30427 .
On my second set of steel wheels I came up with a good workaround to avoid the stuck hexes.
See the pics below, but basically you file off the paint from the six sides of the Axial hexes, make a chamfer all the way around the outer edge, and file a slight taper on the six flat surfaces making the outer edge the low side. That will keep the hexes from jamming in the wheels.

Forth, the stamped wheel halves are not always stamped clean, meaning some of the bends around the edges of the wheels are "off" or crooked.

But the good news is the wheels look so good after you finally get them together that it still makes it worth all the work. After all, at least someone does make them, it could be worse, no steel wheels at all!

 

[Dustinf]

Hey, thanks for the the helpful replays. I reread the entire thread and realized you already explained what you did. .. my bad.

Stock esc, and I lowered my battery tray. Nw I'm having a hard time with the wires pushing the interior up. Im going to deal with that and then ill be at the "shock" stage. I may try the droop kit, its only $15 and gives many mounting options for the shocks.

I will certainly come here with pics or a link to the pics. It shouldn't be long now. I just needs to choose a light system. Maybe the axial night vision or one similar. Know of any? I used your tail light idea and am planning on adding all the amber lights.

Thanks again!