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Cherokee build - Very Scale - SCX10

Oh sorry, he's Gale from Hunger Games.

Perfect scale for 1/10 and looks like just a normal dude, not those goofy looking unrealistic muscle men figures you see in some trucks.


Do you know if he will fit OK on the stock Dingo body?
 
You need to do a coil spring front and leaf spring rear, then you will be very close to scale handling.

Actually I've run my 1:1 XJ with quite a few other 1:1 XJ's over the years with 4-link and coilovers. I'm building a 1:10 XJ myself right now and was going to do leafs in the rear, but I plan on doing a coil over conversion on my 1:1 when funds become available and I rebuild my cage to tie the fronts too. There is not a lot of meat up front in a XJ unibody to support a front hoop setup, so that's why front coilovers aren't more common on trail XJ's, a well designed cage really is mandatory.So I'm sticking with the SCX10 4 link to keep scale with my future 1:1 since we are blessed with a nice set of shock hoops to tie into :D But yeah for a scale stock XJ, leafs and coil fronts would be the way to go and seem pretty easy to do. Inverted Y steering would be a cool touch too, though that was the first thing to go on my 1:1. And I too would like to know where those wheels are from, those are very sharp looking for a stockish 1:10 for sure! 1.55 I assume? Nice looking rig!
 
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hey, very nice looking rig. What tires and wheels are those in the first pictures? I like how scale they look and would like to get a set for display purposes. Any help is very much appreciated.

Also, what do you do for door cracks and the "spaces" simulated on the body? do you just use a fine point sharpie to fill them in to create depth?
Its a nice touch that people don't seem to do often.

Thanks

Thanks for the compliments!

The tires and wheels are off the Tamiya Jeep Wrangler (CC-01)
If you do a search for Tamiya Jeep wrangler tires / wheels you should find a bunch of them. They are still available from Tamiya also, here is a link to the parts page.
Tamiya America Kit #84071 | RC Jeep Wrangler - Parts Listing

You can usually get them cheaper on Ebay etc.

The wheels come 2 in a set (one pair), so wherever you get them from make sure how many your getting. (I originally got a set from Tamiya and only got 1 pair, then I got a set of 4 on ebay.)

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I wanted the tires with the "Goodyear Wrangler" white letters but still can't find a set. (they stopped making them long ago)

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But I did find a "BF Goodrich" white letter tire that is now available for the Tamiya Pajero that uses the same tire size.
Could only find them on Ebay (a guy in Japan is where I got them on ebay and I see them from other European sellers on Ebay also.)

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I painted the wheels with black paint for lexan as a backer first then with Spaz Stix mirror chrome.

Those wheels were also used by Jeep on the Cherokee Limited models, as you probably already know.

As for the panel lines, (I can't believe i'm giving away all my secrets, lol)
I just use a panel line pen from Top Flite. (No big secret really)
TowerHobbies.com | TOPTOPQ2510 TOPQ2510 Top Flite Panel Line Pen

Some body's have deep panel line groves and the pen just follows the groove nicely making it easy (like the Dingo), unfortunately the Cherokee body had very shallow line groves and the pen kept jumping out of the groves and marking up the silver color on the lower body. Luckily rubbing alcohol and a paper towel got my mistakes off until I finally got it. It took quite a few tries to get it right.
 
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And I too would like to know where those wheels are from, those are very sharp looking for a stockish 1:10 for sure! 1.55 I assume? Nice looking rig!

Thanks for the props!

The wheels are actually 1.9's which is not really scale as the 1:1 "Cherokee Limited" wheels are 15" so these wheels should really be 1.55's but I'll have to live with that since it's all that's available.
Close enough, right!
 
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I never thought lexan interior could look so good!

Well thanks to Pro-Line for making such an easy "ready to paint" interior, otherwise I would never have had one to put in there.
I sure don't have the time to scratch build one.

I can't understand why they would stop making this, it seems like a great product, maybe most people make their own.

But thanks for the kind words. : )
 
By the way, I don't paint the interior on the underside of the piece because it will have a glossy look like a body that is painted that way.

How many interiors on real cars/trucks do you see that are glossy!

I just peel the overspray film off and paint that surface with a non-glossy paint like the silver on this one.
 
i love the way your jeep looks, seriously one of the best looking Cherokees ive seen makes me want to make want to do that to my scx 10, good work man!
 
Was it hard to tape off the body to paint the fenders?

I painted the silver on the fenders flairs, bumpers and lower door trim from the outside, as well as the chrome on the windshield trim molding, door handles, front grill, roof rack tracks and the flat black on the window trim moldings.

It's much easier to carefully cut the overspray film around the areas on the outside of the body where you want different colors than the main body color that you paint on the inside. Then just slowly and carefully peel away the overspray film pieces that you just cut out.

Do them in groups according to color and paint them one color group at a time and allow some time for the paint to dry. Then you can cover the first group with paper and masking tape. Try not to tape to the fresh paint, just tape to the large areas of remaining overspray film. Use paper with tape on the edge to cover large areas.

If you try to paint these other color items from the inside they will all be glossy (clear body over the paint), so flat colors like the flat black window trim moldings won't come out flat that way.

The one drawback of painting on the outside of the body is that it can be scraped off if you rub against rocks etc., but for this Cherokee body I only plan on using it for pictures and videos I need and will likely change to a different body for rough stuff. I do wish that I did the chrome from the inside because it rubs off easily on the outside, but here is the thing, it is really hard to mask small areas inside the body, and even if you can, the paint tends to bleed under the edges of the tape making a sloppy job.

The best way would be to use liquid mask and apply it on the areas inside the body where you want different colors. Then after it dries cut out and peel away all but the places you want covered. Next, paint the main body color until satisfied, then after it dries peel away one color group at a time and paint them one at a time until you have all your colors.

Again this is only for colors you want to appear glossy. (Chrome for example.)

I have yet to work with liquid mask, it seems like it would be a lot of time and mess but perhaps I will give it a try on my next body to see if I can get even better results.

One more thing, use polycarbonate (Lexan) paint as your first coat or two if you plan on using a non Lexan paint like Krylon semi flat black for your window trim moldings or any thing else. That will make sure to bond to the body first, or else the non Lexan paint may peel.

Sorry for the long winded reply, lol
 
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Do you mind measuring from head to waist of that figure? :)

OK, when separated, his top half is 3" and his lower half is 3-7/8".

So he is really 6-7/8" total, not 7" but close enough.

His arms move at the shoulders and elbows, but I had to trim away a little around his joints to get more movement which really helped.

You can't really see the trimmed spots since it's under his arms and in other hard to see places, so no one will ever notice.
 
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Thanks a lot for the replies!!

No worries!


So the two floor pans finally got here,
tracked these down on the other side of the world.

I opened one up and did some trimming, test fitting, shaping with a drum sander etc., then I peeled the overspray film off, washed it in hot soapy water, dried it, and painted the underside with Tamiya black Lexan paint to get a good bite, followed by Krylon satin black.

It has a lot of room in it to stick my speed controller and wires plus room left over for my light unit etc.
It should keep most of the dirt out of the inside as well.

Without the floor pan, I had the body much lower on the frame which gave the truck more of a street Cherokee look, but the floor pan raises the body up on the frame and gives it more tire clearance, which is good on one hand but takes away the factory street look a little.
I can probably get some shorter shocks an drop it back down, or maybe I'll just leave it and go with the bigger tires and an off-road look,
Knowing me I'll do both.

These are some pictures of the install and result, plus some shots with some 1.55 steel wheels and bigger mud tires at the end.

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