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BVRC's CRC XV-01

I think I'll start testing these tires now (before cutting any more).
 

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I think that is a good idea! It will keep from breaking the lights, you don't have to put holes in the body and yeah, looks pretty good. Not super scale, but a very efficient way to do it. I approve. "thumbsup"

They still have a decent chance of breaking in my opinion, but I'm going with it anyway. They're a tough fit in this DS3. They probably would have fit better inside the XV which had more space up front. The DS3 will be rubbing the light bar for sure.
 
What is the purpose of cutting some of the knobs of the tire off?

Cutting some of the knobs allows the tire to clean itself better when driving. Wet sand can become compacted inside of the lugs of the tire, causing decreased traction. Cutting and trimming some of the tread can open up surface area for the wet sand to escape. At least this is the goal of trimming tread.
 
Looking GOOD man "thumbsup"

Now if i could just get 2-3 more hours out of a day:lmao: I could get mine painted.
 
Last night was the second event of the 2013/14 CRC.

It was a rad night. I raced in class B first (1/10 4wd sedan/hatch). And then in class S2000 (1/10 2wd sedan/hatch). In order to get the xv-01 into 2wd mode, I pulled out the pins and locking rings on my rear cvd's.

Here are some pictures from Turtle.
 

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I just wanted to clarify what I did to my xv-01 in order to qualify for the S2000 2wd group. I know Tom was wondering about it last night. Maybe this'll help others too.

If you have the cvd's in the rear (like I do), just pull off the round lock rings and then pull the pins out of the universal unit. The result is a buttery smooth rear end that won't drag in the dirt (as long as your bearings are flush and clean). The tires will spin freely without engaging the rear diff. If you pull the lock rings but leave the universal pins in, you'll actually still be in 4wd until you eventually loose the pins on the track, thus pulling them out in the first place is the way to go if you have the rear cvds.

I found this tiny Leatherman phillips works great. It's easy to get the lock ring off, and it's just the right size to push the pin through the universal unit (using the plyers to pull it out the other side).

I learned all of this when I lost a lock ring/pin by accident. Lucky The Crawl Space had some spares, so I've got extras "thumbsup"
 

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Would you not be better off by either removing the inner part of the Cvd completely, or simply removing the pin in the wheel hex? I would have thought the excess wear on the joints of expensive cvd's wouldn't be ideal.
 
Would you not be better off by either removing the inner part of the Cvd completely, or simply removing the pin in the wheel hex? I would have thought the excess wear on the joints of expensive cvd's wouldn't be ideal.

good thoughts, you made me rethink this and test some stuff...

Removing the pin in the wheel hex doesn't provide a smooth wheel spin (at least for me and this vehicle). Removing the hex pin makes the plastic hex just revolve around the wheel spindle and you don't use the efficiency of the bearings. This option results in a good bit of rear drag, again, at least for this car it does.

You're right. I'm sure that pulling the universal pins isn't the best for the cvd's. But I'm not too concerned about replacing the cvds. I have the original dog bones that came with the kit, if the cvd's ever wear out.

Removing the whole internal part of the cvd (leaving the outer spindle/bearings in) is indeed the best option. This would be the best of both worlds for this car. But time was limited last night between races and I just pulled the pins in a minute or two. If you've got the time, pull all the internals, if time is limited just pull the universal pins "thumbsup"

I could be totally wrong here, it's just what worked for me... "thumbsup" The car drove exceptionally well in fwd last night. I was totally psyched.
 
Found some fun this afternoon. :)
 

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Turkey day frozen lake action"thumbsup"
 

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