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Building my exact Replica of my Jeep Wrangler

Playing and testing a little the new toy.
Had so much fun with it!!!

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The links will work (the SSD D60 is a direct stock replacement if used with the axle mounted servo). If you're going CMS, then just the front lower links and rear upper and lower links will work. Front uppers will be replaced with a panhard setup and one upper link


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Sounds like it's skipping a tooth somewhere (axle or transmission). Remove the upper link screw and put a small washer on it before reassembling the link to the mount. I'll try to find a pic to help illustrate what I'm talking about


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
kookie31 said:
Sounds like it's skipping a tooth somewhere (axle or transmission). Remove the upper link screw and put a small washer on it before reassembling the link to the mount. I'll try to find a pic to help illustrate what I'm talking about


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Oh, ok!

i did think to do that, becouse it get away so easy, i though that it can happen again....

like this right?
ss-screwnyloc-big-small-big.jpg



About the sound in the axle or transmission, im waiting for my new tools to arrive, for me be able to do that!


Thanks!!!
 
While im wait for the parts arrive for me...


FOUND THE BODY!!!! By New Bright!!!

will arrive for me this week... and i will soffer a lit bit to paint it.. but im sure i can do it!!!
 
Any place that i could relocate both 2200 3S batteries to dont make to much weight on the back?
maybe mor centered, one on each side... does it exists anything ready like that?

About the axles... im looking to have the stock axle yet...save money on that, and spend on what is worth it, about the body replica...
Im looking to buy/find a wheel spacer to make it a little bit wider...
And thanks Kookie, i see that if i have the stock axles or the SSD axkes, i can use the AXIAL SCX / JK 4 LINK CONVERSION KIT WITH STOCK AXLES right?
But the u said about the CMS... does it worth it? what is the difference betwen CMS and what i have now?


thanks
 
CMS is chassis mounted servo. It moves the servo off the axle and onto the chassis which looks more scale. The down side is you put that weight a bit higher and some CMS kits can give you a bit of bump steer if they are not setup correctly. If you go this route, the easiest thing is to buy a whole kit instead of piecing things together. The Locked Up kit is nice. Setup is a bit more involved than some of the others (Vanquish) but it is more adjustable and you can get rid of pretty much all bump steer with that kit.

All the internals from the stock housings will fit into the SSDs housing. The links will also bolt right up.

Many aftermarket wheels use SLW hubs. You can play with different widths to get the offset you want. They do run $15-20 per pair so randomly playing around with widths can get expensive. There is a vendor here called Lattice Innovations that has an adjustable kit that is very nice. I think it was ~$40. If you are going to use the stock wheels you could try different width hexes but you will not have a whole lot of options.

ETA there are tons of threads on relocating batteries to the front. Some vendors make different rock sliders that allow you to strap a saddle packs on or you could just add a plate onto the stock sliders.
 
Last edited:
Col_Sanders said:
CMS is chassis mounted servo. It moves the servo off the axle and onto the chassis which looks more scale. The down side is you put that weight a bit higher and some CMS kits can give you a bit of bump steer if they are not setup correctly. If you go this route, the easiest thing is to buy a whole kit instead of piecing things together. The Locked Up kit is nice. Setup is a bit more involved than some of the others (Vanquish) but it is more adjustable and you can get rid of pretty much all bump steer with that kit.

All the internals from the stock housings will fit into the SSDs housing. The links will also bolt right up.

Many aftermarket wheels use SLW hubs. You can play with different widths to get the offset you want. They do run $15-20 per pair so randomly playing around with widths can get expensive. There is a vendor here called Lattice Innovations that has an adjustable kit that is very nice. I think it was ~$40. If you are going to use the stock wheels you could try different width hexes but you will not have a whole lot of options.

ETA there are tons of threads on relocating batteries to the front. Some vendors make different rock sliders that allow you to strap a saddle packs on or you could just add a plate onto the stock sliders.
Click to expand...


Great, so its gonna be better if i go CMS right? is that so much difficoult to set up it?
I will look into the "The Locked Up" kit

I ask about the SSD becouse it has a little bit wider axle, right? But if i can put a Spacer, or a Hubs, i will save some money on that, right?
Im looking and gaining courage to buy the Method Wheels by Vanquish...they cost a lot... but its the perfect and the exact wheel that my Jeep has on it.

Does that Wheel is already wider than the stock that i have here?
 
From a purely performance standpoint, having the servo on the axle is better. It keeps that weight lower and you can just 4 link the front, which is pretty simple. CMS looks cool and its more scale. If you are going to do any scale competitions, it will get you a few points.

SSD axles are the same width as stock. Hubs are the easiest way to play with your width. The hubs I mentioned in my other post allow you to really fine tune it. You will need to provide your own M3 screws, which brings up another good point. If you are going to be modifying a lot, a good M3 screw kit is a necessity. I bought a big kit from Screw Loose, but KNK is another vendor that sells them.

I dont know much about Vanquish wheels....they are nice, but they cost more than I care to pay.
 
Col_Sanders said:
From a purely performance standpoint, having the servo on the axle is better. It keeps that weight lower and you can just 4 link the front, which is pretty simple. CMS looks cool and its more scale. If you are going to do any scale competitions, it will get you a few points.

SSD axles are the same width as stock. Hubs are the easiest way to play with your width. The hubs I mentioned in my other post allow you to really fine tune it. You will need to provide your own M3 screws, which brings up another good point. If you are going to be modifying a lot, a good M3 screw kit is a necessity. I bought a big kit from Screw Loose, but KNK is another vendor that sells them.

I dont know much about Vanquish wheels....they are nice, but they cost more than I care to pay.
Click to expand...


Great to know that.
I wont be using in competitions, so i can save some money on that...or use it to make the replica! :twisted:

Also, i will keep the stock axles, since the SSD are the same width as the stock.

So, im looking to have these parts, what do you think about it?

- AXIAL SCX / JK 4 LINK CONVERSION KIT WITH STOCK AXLES
- CVD AX10 SCX10 Universal Drive Shaft
- WIDER HUBS (to make it more likely the 1:1)
- BEEF TUBES
- TRUSS


I think thats it....
 
They may need to be shimmed a bit thinking maybe the mess might be a little loose between the 2 gears in there.

Sent From My Galaxy S6 Edge+
 
Not sure if you fixed your that noise yet but it looks like a driveline issue to me. Almost identical sound as a friends Falken g6 jeep. Make sure the pins @ each end of the shafts are aligned properly. If they aren't it can cause binding issues.
 
shiftauto said:
Not sure if you fixed your that noise yet but it looks like a driveline issue to me. Almost identical sound as a friends Falken g6 jeep. Make sure the pins @ each end of the shafts are aligned properly. If they aren't it can cause binding issues.
Click to expand...


Hey Shift, thanks!
The pins have to be parallel in the both ends of the shafts?
Tomorrow i think the 4link it will arrive and i will open it... install the kit and see in the axles if the noise should be overthere, or in tha shafts as u said!

Thanks a lot!
 
pcrescenti said:
Hey Shift, thanks!
The pins have to be parallel in the both ends of the shafts?
Tomorrow i think the 4link it will arrive and i will open it... install the kit and see in the axles if the noise should be overthere, or in tha shafts as u said!

Thanks a lot!
Click to expand...
Yeah, both ends. While you have the shafts separated I recommend that you spin everything to make sure it's not binding. Spin front axle @ the pinion no drive shaft attached. Same for rear axle. Same for the transmission/motor. If everything is rotating smooth then align the shafts, one @ a time and spin it. Sounds like more work than it really is but believe me, if it's something else it should show up pretty easily. Also check your pinion angle just in case.

Wait, where am I?
 
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