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Building my exact Replica of my Jeep Wrangler

Axial JK rubicon unlimited RTR and get the optional roof to go with it. I'll post links later


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
The AE-2 and AE-5 are the different electronic speed controls that have been in the SCX10 RTRs. The AE-2 is in the older models and it is made by Castle Creations. Its a good ESC and you can do some fine tuning with a Castle Link and a computer. The AE-5 is what is in the newer models. It is waterproof and the only adjustments that you can make is lipo voltage cutoff on or off and drag brake at 50% or 100%. The AE-5 is decent, but it is nice to be able to make smaller adjustments on the AE-2, plus I find the AE-2 ESC is smoother in the low end.

If you plan on going brushless or you REALLY want to fine tune your ESC, it doesn't matter because you would probably end up replacing either one with something a little more high end.
 
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Hey guys!

I spend my whole day till now, looking into sites, and searching everything to the SCX-10 look very closest to my 1:1 Jeep. Here a lot of things that i found it. Id like to know, if possible, what do you think about it.
When i decide here everything about the appearance, i will start building the performance parts! i already did read what you have write it here, and starting to make a list also.



BUILD LIST
mini Viagra (name of the my JK 1:1, haha)​


SCX-10 (original is Jeep JK 4door 2015)
Rubicon Model?


BODY (original has the Hardtop and Softtop, can be one or the other)
wich one is better, the whole body, or separeted?
full body
Pro-Line Jeep Wrangler Unl. Rubicon 1/10 Rock Crawler Body PRO333600
Pro-Line Jeep Wrangler Unlimited Rubico N Clear Body 12.3 Wheelbase (PRO333600)
separeted
Axial SCX10 '12 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon 1/10 Rock Crawler Body AXIAX04033
Axial 2012 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon Unlimited Body SCX10 (AXI04033) | RC Planet
and the hardtop
Axial SCX10 '12 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon 1/10 Rock Crawler Body Roof AXIAX04034
Axial 2012 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon Body Unlimited Roof SCX10 (AXI04034) | RC Plane
and the softtop
Pro-Line Timberline Soft-Top Black SCX10 Jeep Wrangler PRO628500
Pro-Line Timberline Soft-Top Black SCX10 Jeep Wrangler (PRO628500) | Bodies & Accessories | RC Planet


WHEELS (original is Method 17")
Vanquish Products Method 1.9 Race Wheel 105 Black Anodized
Vanquish Products Method 1.9 Race Wheel 105 Black Anodized


TIRES (original is Trepador Radial 37")
didnt find it yet

SUSPESNSION (SHOCKS) (original is 3"-5" KingShocks Coilover with 12" flex)
i dunno what will fit better...
Amazon.com: RC4WD King Off-Road Scale Piggyback Shocks w/Faux Reservoir (100mm): Toys & Games
or
http://www.amazon.com/Off-Road-Scale...12MQ0CWZB3ZG8C


SUSPENSION (LONG ARMS) (original is LongArms by EVO with 12" flex)
dunno if exists a long arm upgrade

SNORKEL (original is AEV)
i find the snorkel top, but cant find the rest of it
Snorkel Top
Snorkel Top (6TFU6UUJN) by Knight_Customs


WINCH (original is Warn Zeon Platinum 12s)
RC4WD 1/8 Warn Zeon 10 Winch RC4Z-E0069
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0163N17HM...TF8&colid=1Y41A5YZYR5YX&coliid=I1WTTXPYY25YLY
or
RC4WD 1/8 Warn Zeon 10 Winch
and the fairlead
RC4WD 1/10 Warn Hawse Polished Aluminum Fairlead (Black)
RC4WD 1/10 Warn Hawse Polished Aluminum Fairlead (Black)


LED BAR (original is Rigid Industries 10" with orange cover)
it will fit winch and led bar?
Gear Head RC 1/10 Scale Six Shooter 2" LED Light Bar - Amber
Gear Head RC 1/10 Scale Six Shooter 2" LED Light Bar - Amber
and the mounting plate
Gear Head RC Yeti Six Shooter Mounting Plate and Bracket Kit
Gear Head RC Yeti Six Shooter Mounting Plate and Bracket Kit


ROCK SLIDER (original is Smyttybilt)
i duuno if i can find one better than this one
RC4WD Tough Armor Side Bars to fit Axial SCX10 chassis
RC4WD Tough Armor Side Bars to fit Axial SCX10 chassis


HOOD (origial is AEV)
gonna have to some body work, right?


HOOD LOCKERS
Haubenverschlüsse Jeep JK Axial SCX10
Haubenverschlüsse Jeep JK Axial SCX10 (Y7DGYUKMG) by offroader


SUPERCHARGER (original is RIPP)
does this will fit the SCX grill, and if i paint in chromo, will appear like the original one?
AJ30003 Radiator & Body Mount ONLY (Axial SCX10)
AJ30003 Radiator & Body Mount ONLY (Axial SCX10) (AVCSNPE2J) by Knight_Customs


FRONT BUMPER (original is Metalcloak modular bumper)
dunno if this one is the closest look
Hot Racing Front Bumper Mount SCX10 HRASCX03MF01
Hot Racing Front Bumper Mount SCX10 HRASCX03MF01


REAR BUMPER (original is from Brazil, need to find one that looks preety much alike)
nothing yet


TIRE CARRIER (the tire its fixed in the door)
so im gonna need to fix the spare tire in the back door, right?


ROTOPAX 4 gallon (original is a blue 4 gallon Rotopax)
dunno how i will fix it like the original in my Jeep
AJ10015 RotopaX 4 Gallon Fuel Pack - RED
AJ10015 RotopaX 4 Gallon Fuel Pack - RED (DXV338VZA) by Knight_Customs


FENDERS (original is Metalcloack, front is removable)
RC4WD Metal Fender Flares for Axial SCX10 JK 90027
RC4WD Metal Fender Flares for Axial SCX10 JK 90027


DIFF COVERS (original is ARB Locker red covers)
does it exists the cover, or a full axle?


FACTOR 55 ProLink orange
just need to paint in orange
Gear Head RC 1/10 Scale Factor 55 ProLink Winch Shackle Mount - Red
Gear Head RC 1/10 Scale Factor 55 ProLink Winch Shackle Mount - Red


REAR AUXILIAR LIGHT (original its a small RigidIndustries under the rear light off the Jeep)
Gear Head RC 1/10 Scale Trail Pod LED Lightbar - White (1)
Gear Head RC 1/10 Scale Trail Pod LED Lightbar - White (1)


RCV front Dana30 CV axle
didnt find anything like it...


BLACK D-Rings with orange isolators
i dunno if exists isolators, so...i choose a full orange d-rings
Hot Racing Aluminum 1/10 scale look orange Tow Shackle for the Axial Jeep(4)
Hot Racing Aluminum 1/10 scale look orange Tow Shackle for the Axial Jeep(4)



extras...:

HEADLIGHTS and TAILLIGHTS
i know its possible to have the lights working on the jeep...
i have a headlight by Speaker Evolution 8700 v2.0 with blue and white halos.
can both, front and rear lights work?

ROCK LIGTHS white (original is rocklignts over the tires)
didnt find something like that yet

DECALS
im gonna need to print and make some of my own, right?

DOOR HANDLES
Knight Customs Jeep Door Handles - Set of 5 (SCX10)
Knight Customs Jeep Door Handles - Set of 5 (SCX10)

SPARE TIRE TRASH BAG
Trasharoo 1/10 Scale Spare Tire Trash Bag Tan
Trasharoo 1/10 Scale Spare Tire Trash Bag Tan

HI-LIFT
RC4WD 1/10 Hi-Lift Jack
RC4WD 1/10 Hi-Lift Jack

BLUE PAINT
Tamiya Spray Lacquer TS-19 Metallic Blue
Tamiya Spray Lacquer TS-19 Metallic Blue




I dont know if im forgeting something... thats A LOT f stuff!!! haha :shock::shock::shock::shock:
 
pcrescenti said:
Great! They are look close to the 37"?? And fit the wheels that im looking


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

They scale out around there, as close as you're going to get anyways and they will fit on the 1.9 Method 105s. You'll just have to get them off the wheels or you can order a new set and sell the pre-mounted ones.

The Hot Racing part you posted is just a bumper mount. I think the closest to your actual bumper would be the Knight Customs Smittybilt XRC Mod: AJ10027 Smittybilt XRC M.O.D. Bumper (6MQYN8ZAN) by Knight_Customs

The rear bumper is tough, I'd suggest using the stock Poison Spyder as it is a also a 5th body mount should you want to run the optional hard top or a full soft top.

As for lights, you can buy LED kits for about $20 that include usually 6 white, 2 red, 2 orange and 2 blue and use them however you want on the rig.

LED bars you've got Gear Head, Vanquish (licensed Rigid Industries) Pro-Line Racing and some others I've seen here on the forums. The Vanquish are nice and in a billet housing just like the real thing. The Gear Head lights run on 6V and the Vanquish run on 11.1V.


The rest looks pretty good!
 
Ty@Tekin said:
They scale out around there, as close as you're going to get anyways and they will fit on the 1.9 Method 105s. You'll just have to get them off the wheels or you can order a new set and sell the pre-mounted ones.

The Hot Racing part you posted is just a bumper mount. I think the closest to your actual bumper would be the Knight Customs Smittybilt XRC Mod: AJ10027 Smittybilt XRC M.O.D. Bumper (6MQYN8ZAN) by Knight_Customs

The rear bumper is tough, I'd suggest using the stock Poison Spyder as it is a also a 5th body mount should you want to run the optional hard top or a full soft top.

As for lights, you can buy LED kits for about $20 that include usually 6 white, 2 red, 2 orange and 2 blue and use them however you want on the rig.

LED bars you've got Gear Head, Vanquish (licensed Rigid Industries) Pro-Line Racing and some others I've seen here on the forums. The Vanquish are nice and in a billet housing just like the real thing. The Gear Head lights run on 6V and the Vanquish run on 11.1V.


The rest looks pretty good!
Click to expand...

Great, i will do it about the Tire and Wheels, buy just the Method Wheels!

About the rear bumper, id saw that, is the closest one, yes! but is it able do fix the 5th tire on the body, and not use the tire carrier?
if i wanted to have a different body, i need to use the tire carrier, right?
http://www.axialracing.com/products/ax80126

I will look the rock lights.

Awesome the Vanquish rigid light bars!!! 1inch, is the 10inch, right? great!!

the SCX10 use a 12v battery right?
what is the better voltage to have in the lights, is that any big difference?



THANKS
 
pcrescenti said:
Great, i will do it about the Tire and Wheels, buy just the Method Wheels!

About the rear bumper, id saw that, is the closest one, yes! but is it able do fix the 5th tire on the body, and not use the tire carrier?
if i wanted to have a different body, i need to use the tire carrier, right?
Axial Racing - SCX10 Poison Spyder JK RockBrawler Rear Bumper and Tire Carrier

I will look the rock lights.

Awesome the Vanquish rigid light bars!!! 1inch, is the 10inch, right? great!!

the SCX10 use a 12v battery right?
what is the better voltage to have in the lights, is that any big difference?



THANKS
Click to expand...

You can absolutely mount the tire to the body, it just won't be very solid. The tire carrier mounts to the bumper and to the rear of the roll cage with a body clip so it doesn't jiggle and flop around. It's also the rear body mount if you run the hardtop since you won't be able to get to the two rear pins. "thumbsup"

The lights are easy, you can run the GearHeads off your receiver since that line is usually 6V (higher if your ESC has the option) and the Vanquish can be run off your 3S 11.1V pack, if you run 3S. I run 2S in my scalers because I have tons of 2S race packs and I have a separate small 3S for my light bar. I run all my body LEDs off the 6V my ESC feeds to the receiver and power my servos straight off the 2S main battery.
 
Ty@Tekin said:
You can absolutely mount the tire to the body, it just won't be very solid. The tire carrier mounts to the bumper and to the rear of the roll cage with a body clip so it doesn't jiggle and flop around. It's also the rear body mount if you run the hardtop since you won't be able to get to the two rear pins. "thumbsup"

The lights are easy, you can run the GearHeads off your receiver since that line is usually 6V (higher if your ESC has the option) and the Vanquish can be run off your 3S 11.1V pack, if you run 3S. I run 2S in my scalers because I have tons of 2S race packs and I have a separate small 3S for my light bar. I run all my body LEDs off the 6V my ESC feeds to the receiver and power my servos straight off the 2S main battery.
Click to expand...


OK, awesome, will consider to use the tire carrier... i just keep thinking about the Origial Jeep... try to make the closest replica.
But ur right...it will be better on the bumper!

And i will keep in mind about the lights and batteries... i didnt start thinking about the batteries, i adimits thats a lot new stuff to me about that...i thouth that i will use a NiMh ones, i didnt know about the LiPo on the RC, and that can run up to 5hours.... so i need to give me some learning about it, before i start deciding and buying... U guys are gonna be my gurus, haha

Thanks!!!
 
Found some ARB red Covers for the Diff covers!!!

Just to look like mine!!

ARB Diff Cover for Axial Wraith (Wraith, Ridgecrest)

api2bmak0__78794.jpg
 
pcrescenti said:
OK, awesome, will consider to use the tire carrier... i just keep thinking about the Origial Jeep... try to make the closest replica.
But ur right...it will be better on the bumper!

And i will keep in mind about the lights and batteries... i didnt start thinking about the batteries, i adimits thats a lot new stuff to me about that...i thouth that i will use a NiMh ones, i didnt know about the LiPo on the RC, and that can run up to 5hours.... so i need to give me some learning about it, before i start deciding and buying... U guys are gonna be my gurus, haha

Thanks!!!
Click to expand...

I can help with electronics, it's what I do! There's lots of options, first you decide what voltage you want to run, then match the motor to that so you are in the proper RPM range. Now do you want brushed or brushless? Big differences between the two, especially in pricing. Brushless can run you double what a brushed setup will cost. Both have pros and cons you'd have to weigh before you decide. For one, brushed motors have parts that wear out and typically need more maintenance than a brushless, but they are much more forgiving in and around water. Feel free to PM me or post all your questions and I'll try to answer them as best I can!
 
Ty@Tekin said:
Those are for the Wraith AR60 Axles, won't fit the SCX10. You might want to wait for the new SCX10 II to hit the market, it's got a more scale axle and comes with a red cover that will look similar to your 1:1 Jeep.
Click to expand...

wow, really?

do u know when it will be available?


sorry about those mistakes... so much to learn... im also taking others threads to read e got learning....
 
Ty@Tekin said:
I can help with electronics, it's what I do! There's lots of options, first you decide what voltage you want to run, then match the motor to that so you are in the proper RPM range. Now do you want brushed or brushless? Big differences between the two, especially in pricing. Brushless can run you double what a brushed setup will cost. Both have pros and cons you'd have to weigh before you decide. For one, brushed motors have parts that wear out and typically need more maintenance than a brushless, but they are much more forgiving in and around water. Feel free to PM me or post all your questions and I'll try to answer them as best I can!
Click to expand...

Ofcourse prices and costs are important.... i know that i will spend some money here, and where i can save money, will be good!

Id like to have a option to go into the water, yes!
and offcourse id like to have less maintenace as i can...
Dunno what will be the best option...

7.2volts like the olds NiMh its a good voltage? can be like that? but with LiPo?



PS:
Sorry about my english sometimes...Portuguese is my first lenguage, English is my second.... hope u understand...



Thanks!!
 
Last edited:
pcrescenti said:
Ofcourse prices and costs are important.... i know that i will spend some money here, and where i can save money, will be good!

Id like to have a option to go into the water, yes!
and offcourse id like to have less maintenace as i can...
Dunno what will be the best option...

7.2volts like the olds NiMh its a good voltage? can be like that? but with LiPo?



PS:
Sorry about my english sometimes...Portuguese is my first lenguage, English is my second.... hope u understand...



Thanks!!
Click to expand...

Brushed motors can run in water right out of the package, it just wears on the brushes and comm more quickly. The ESCs can be waterproofed or put in a sealed up electronics box. I've done both, both work pretty well for normal water crossings and splashes. I never submerge my rigs, it's not scale and I just don't like to do it.

Brushless can be made decently water-resistant by coating the sensor board and using dielectric grease in the sensor ports to help keep moisture out of those connections. We've got some things in the works...:shock:

LiPos are 4.2V per cell when charged, 3.7 nominal. They are all rated at nominal voltage so a 2S is 7.4V and a 3S is 11.1V. You'll want LiPo for sure, NiMH is old technology, they are heavy and take more maintenance with charging/discharging to keep in good shape. LiPos just need to be balance charged, charged to only 8.4V, never discharged passed 6.0V (I normally cut them off around 6.2V just to be safe) and stored around 3.2-3.5V if you aren't going to use them for awhile.

pcrescenti said:
about the REAR BUMPER, i will go for this one for now.... unles i can find something more simillar of mine....


SCX10 Poison Spyder JK RockBrawler Rear Bumper and Tire Carrier
Axial Racing - SCX10 Poison Spyder JK RockBrawler Rear Bumper and Tire Carrier


ax80126-1_800x533.jpg
Click to expand...

That bumper carrier will come on the RTR JK if you go that route. If you wait for the new SCX10-II you'll need the JK body and bumpers.
 
Ty@Tekin said:
Brushed motors can run in water right out of the package, it just wears on the brushes and comm more quickly. The ESCs can be waterproofed or put in a sealed up electronics box. I've done both, both work pretty well for normal water crossings and splashes. I never submerge my rigs, it's not scale and I just don't like to do it.

Brushless can be made decently water-resistant by coating the sensor board and using dielectric grease in the sensor ports to help keep moisture out of those connections. We've got some things in the works...:shock:

LiPos are 4.2V per cell when charged, 3.7 nominal. They are all rated at nominal voltage so a 2S is 7.4V and a 3S is 11.1V. You'll want LiPo for sure, NiMH is old technology, they are heavy and take more maintenance with charging/discharging to keep in good shape. LiPos just need to be balance charged, charged to only 8.4V, never discharged passed 6.0V (I normally cut them off around 6.2V just to be safe) and stored around 3.2-3.5V if you aren't going to use them for awhile.
Click to expand...



WOW, a lot of information! gonna have to get used that before i start using right?


So, if i gonna use a 2S to have a 7,4V right?
is there any cons about have the 2S?

UPDATING
i saw that with 3S it will be better for some lights, winch, and torque... is that right?



About the motors, i promise that i will understand both, just let me get used to it, haha
here is my use for the my replica:
-Exact replica of my Jeep
-kinda fast, but not a 60mph fast
-climbing rocks, a good torque
-not that much maintace
-able to get wet sometimes, ride on sand, dirt, rocks...



Im trying to uderstand the difference, haha
brushless-vs-brushed-motor.jpg
 
Last edited:
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