GTSLOW
Rock Crawler
Just curious if anyone's ever ran brass links?
-
Welcome to RCCrawler Forums.
It looks like you're enjoying RCCrawler's Forums but haven't created an account yet. Why not take a minute to register for your own free account now? As a member you get free access to all of our forums and posts plus the ability to post your own messages, communicate directly with other members, and much more. Register now!
Already a member? Login at the top of this page to stop seeing this message.
Brass links? Anyone ever done it?
- Thread starter GTSLOW
- Start date
I haven't and I'm not sure why you'd want to. If you want links made from soft metal there's plenty of aluminum rods and links to go around.
allanon1965
I wanna be Dave
I have thought about sleeving my steel links in brass tubes just for giggles..my local ace hardware sells it right next to the aluminum tube I buy now
I used brass tube over threaded rod and traxxas rod end on a dingo. Worked and looked pretty good. It is a soft metal though so in hind sight I would use steel I think for the hardness. The brass did look sweet on the steering linkages though!
Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
351Beno
Quarry Creeper
I have made uppers for a few different scx10s out of 3/16 solid brass rod and revo end. Looks great works as needed and never had a problem with them. Super easy to make also.
GTSLOW
Rock Crawler
Hobbezco
Pebble Pounder
Even 3/16 and 1/4 brass rod is easily bendable by hand. Doesn't make sense in a strength vs. weight comparison as they will not keep their shape under any real use. Your first big tumble will alter your link geometry.
You could sleeve stainless steel threaded rod with brass for the looks, but if your after weight, the difference between stainless and brass is really negligible in these quantities. Your best bet is to cut/thread solid stainless rod or cover stainless threaded rod with thick walled stainless tube.
You could sleeve stainless steel threaded rod with brass for the looks, but if your after weight, the difference between stainless and brass is really negligible in these quantities. Your best bet is to cut/thread solid stainless rod or cover stainless threaded rod with thick walled stainless tube.
84yoda
I wanna be Dave
I think there is a vendor on here who makes some. I also know a local who used to make them from solid brass and they held up just fine. But I think 1/4" stainless steel is a good option for lots of a weight down low. Like the incision links from vp.
I have wanted to make brass links, think they would look good.
but when I think about strength vs. weight, it is hard to beat aluminum.
also prefer aluminum over stainless steel. I can add weight to the knuckles if more
weight is called for. titanium would be good except for the cost.
3/16 " rod 10-32 die and tap, revo rod ends, some elbow grease, voila - links.
bottom line - it is worth doing for looks, just do not expect them not to bend.
but when I think about strength vs. weight, it is hard to beat aluminum.
also prefer aluminum over stainless steel. I can add weight to the knuckles if more
weight is called for. titanium would be good except for the cost.
3/16 " rod 10-32 die and tap, revo rod ends, some elbow grease, voila - links.
bottom line - it is worth doing for looks, just do not expect them not to bend.
Last edited:
GTSLOW
Rock Crawler
Ah ok I didn't think brass was that soft that it would risk bending.
Possibly brass lowers with aluminum uppers?
Possibly brass lowers with aluminum uppers?
QuesoDelDiablo
RCC Addict
I'd go brass uppers with steel lowers if you're looking to gain weight..
Di_Spencer
Quarry Creeper
Aluminum has the best strength to weight maybe but it is much softer than stainless or titanium so instead of sliding over rocks they scrape and gouge which isn't good.
Sent from my SM-G920T using Tapatalk
I think there are better places to add weight, but interesting concept.
allanon1965
I wanna be Dave
I am going to sleeve my steel links with brass tube and see how it works..
scalemechanic
Newbie
From my research the way to go is stainless for weight and strength for your lowers and titanium for low weight high strength uppers. I picked up some SSD tapered stainless lowers and some Vanquish titanium to run up top. I am also using titanium steering links so my servo doesn't have unnecessary weight to push around.
351Beno
Quarry Creeper
I have not had any upper links made from 3/16 solid brass bend. I have not used them for lowers but on an lower weight or slower rig your probably not gonna bend them to easy. I make a lot of links and steel and brass are easy and fast to make.
Last edited:
GTSLOW
Rock Crawler
You are definitely right. Just something I had thought about today while ordering some 3/16 aluminum rod.
amusing statement, I have been working with metals for over 30yrs. I have 3 trucks with 1/4 brass links. two with lowers and 1 with upper and lowers. all trucks are abused equally and have yet to have one bend like my aluminum links did.
all the links have been on the tucks well over a year. make a video showing us how you bend a 3 inch piece off 1/4 brass by hand
Gambolified
Rock Stacker
I've made both my lowers and uppers out of solid brass. No problems at all.
