boyer/scx10/t-runner project

[bvrc]

I got my rc4wd boyer chassis at the post office today. Now the process begins. This is only my second rig, and first 1.9 rig. I hope to have it finished in two weeks for the RECON G6 "Rocky Mountain Mayhem" Scale Adventure. Anyone in colorado? See you there? Anyway, this will be a quick build and any input would be greatly appreciated. I really have no idea what I'm doing.

the plan...
rc4wd boyer chassis (from rc4wd, heavier than I imagined)
scx10 axles, links, center plate (got a rolling chassis off ebay)
35t tekin brushed (was on my wraith for a week before I moved to a 45t)
ae-2 esc (from my wraith rtr)
hs5585 (will this be sufficient? It's 230ish oz/in at 7.4v)
atom3 (I use a hitec srxpro)
castle bec (will to set to 7.4)
rc4wd trunner lexan (from rpp, psyched about this!)
pit bull rock beast 1.9s
axial beadlocks
2 new 2s lipos (8000mah 35c, and a 5600 60c)

Most of the parts I need have been ordered and should arrive sometime this week... I hope I have everything covered. I don't have a local shop, so I order everything online, that can suck when you need parts fast. I need to order shocks soon.

Things I could use help on...
-Shocks? I'm thinking I may need to go longer than stock scx10?
-Gearing? The roller may come with the stock spur, but I have some 32pitch gears lying around I was thinking about using. Anyone know if duratrax spurs will fit on the axial tranny? If so I can run 60/18 or 60/16 32p.
-What do I need to inspect rebuild on a used scx10 rolling chassis? I got a good deal on a nice chassis (from the looks of the pictures), but still, it's used. I know nothing about scx10s, where are the weak points? What needs attention in order to ready to run asap?
-Steering linkages? I'm just not too sure how this is going to work yet. Once I see that parts laid out it may be a simple thing.
-T-runner? I used to drive a 2nd gen toyota and I'd like this truck to bring back some memories for me. Anyone out there with experience detailing the t-runner?
-What else, any other problems you see that I'm going to run into?

Wish me luck, and I'd love your input.
thanks;
bvrc

 

[bvrc]

ok so I've received lots of stuff in the mail. Still waiting on quite a bit though. The main things I'm still waiting on are tires/wheels and electronics.

Tonight I was able to transfer most of what I'm using from the ebay scx10 rolling chassis to my boyer chassis. I now have a testable scx10/boyer roller.

Pictures below...

1. t-runner body came in... I've trimmed a little bit. Still waiting on paint to come in the mail. I'm also still not too sure what I'm going to end up doing with the body. I think I may trim the back end quite a bit. Either a full bob, or just chopping the back 1/3 of the front. Thoughts?

2. ebay rolling chassis came today

3. axles/suspension from roller

4. center plates are different widths... mouted the scx10 plate with the help of a rc-screws wraith kit and spare plastic spacers from a wraith rtr kit...

5. rear mounted up... Scx10 shocks came with the roller. I'm thinking I'm going to want longer coilovers... thoughts? recommendations?

6. shot of the spacers for the scx10 center plate. Both sides are like this..

7. front/rear mounted...

8. t-runner body on top of my new rolling chassis...

9. got a savox servo with my ebay roller... left it mounted on the front axle for now.

10. As we stand now.

 

[bvrc]

I also wanted to thank scorpiondave for his help before starting the project.

 

[ColquittCustom405]

boner tastic....I love that body! keep up the work..

 

[bvrc]

boner tastic....I love that body! keep up the work..

I'm afraid I'll regret trimming the back end or bobbing it. So for now I think I'm going to paint the whole thing a keep it like a real 4runner...

 

[scorpiondave]

I like the looks of it. It brings back memories. I think I eventually went with shocks that were 4" eye to eye. As I recall I had stiffer springs as well. The chassis has some weight to it. Good luck!

 

[bvrc]

So I'm only waiting on a new motor and esc now... I went ahead and ordered a new tekin fxr/motor combo. I figured I could use the spare motor and wanted the fxr over the ae-2 for the drag brake and the option of running 11.1v.

Last night I did receive my new 1.9 pit bulls, wheels, rx, servo, lots of paint and details. I'm psyched about the exterior accessories for the t-runner body. I got a snorkel, roof rack, etc from rc4wd. I also got a axial NVS led kit (this may be something I keep and install after testing the rig for a bit)

These are just a few pictures from last night. I didn't get too much done.

1. parts galore, going with an fxr not the ae-2...

2. details galore.

3. starting front end.

4. front end. (painted some "rust" and "rail tie brown" in the headlights to experiment with how that effects the weathered look of the headlights.)

5. internal rust, pit bulls mounted up.

The plan for the body now is to finish the inside with rust/bare-metal look, and the whole outside will be sprayed blue (the color of my old 2nd gen (RIP).

 

[scorpiondave]

You're doing a great job!"thumbsup"

 

[jon1197]

Actually building one myself, t-runner is a good body, looks like your off to a good start! Keep it up bud!

 

[bvrc]

Actually building one myself, t-runner is a good body, looks like your off to a good start! Keep it up bud!

you're working on a boyer? Are you using a lexan body? If so how are you mounting it? I just ran into a bit of a speed bump while trying to mount the body. Obviously the boyer chassis lacks body posts... I was planning on mounting the body to the side (the holes inwards of the sliders). BUT the t-runner lexan body is extremely thin down on the lower portion of the body. It's too thin the sustain the whole weight of the body. Also, the holes down near the sliders are not threaded. This means I'd have to have a locking nut on the other side, which would be a huge pain in the ass when removing/putting on the body. So... not too sure what to do. I suppose I need to make some body post and somehow fit them onto this boyer chassis.

I hope this is something someone else has done before. Anyone out there run into something similar?

 

[HCfirefighter09]

you're working on a boyer? Are you using a lexan body? If so how are you mounting it? I just ran into a bit of a speed bump while trying to mount the body. Obviously the boyer chassis lacks body posts... I was planning on mounting the body to the side (the holes inwards of the sliders). BUT the t-runner lexan body is extremely thin down on the lower portion of the body. It's too thin the sustain the whole weight of the body. Also, the holes down near the sliders are not threaded. This means I'd have to have a locking nut on the other side, which would be a huge pain in the ass when removing/putting on the body. So... not too sure what to do. I suppose I need to make some body post and somehow fit them onto this boyer chassis.

I hope this is something someone else has done before. Anyone out there run into something similar?

You can use velcro/hook and loop tape to hold it on. I used it on my slash to keep my body clean looking. I just ordered me the same chassis and plan doing a build for the summer.

 

[bvrc]

more body work tonight. I reamed holes for the mirrors, cross bars, etc. before painting. Though I will likely have to make some more holes for body posts, unless I do the velcro thing.

pictures below...

1. cross bars, snorkel, and rubber mirrors

2. mocked up cross bars. I had to add some length to these cross bars (ordered from rpp). They were a few mms too short on each side to fit well on the t-runner body. I could have shortened them to fit flush on the top of the roof, but went a bit longer to fit like a 1:1 would.

3. the under coat (weird rust, tamiya red, and tamiya silver)

4. first coat of outer blue

 

[bvrc]

I like the looks of it. It brings back memories. I think I eventually went with shocks that were 4" eye to eye. As I recall I had stiffer springs as well. The chassis has some weight to it. Good luck!

yeah, right now I'm thinking I'll use the shocks that came on my rtr wraith. They are aboot 4". I need to rebuild them and go with a lighter oil. I've got some 238cst associated oil I'll likely use. If the shocks feel soft I have some stiff integy springs that may work. You're totally right about the chassis being heavy. it's a beast for sure.

 

[bvrc]

I need to clean my bench :sad:

 

[bvrc]

A little more progress...

-I struggled to figure out a proper chassis mounted steering setup, so I just left my servo on the axle for now. I need to make some custom links in order for the cms to work.

-another coat of blue on the outside of the t-runner

-another coat of silver on the front grill

-put my spare wraith shocks on (cleaned them up). They are about 4" shocks. They aren't in that great of condition, but i think they suit the heavy chassis better than the scx10 shocks.

-winch installed

-began to make a front battery plate and started making some space for electronics.

-I moved the front bumper inwards maybe a cm to fit more close to the body

-I'm still contemplating how the body will mount on the chassis.

-I still need to solder up and install most of the electronics.

 

[bvrc]

A little progress on the body.

 

[bvrc]

As it stands now. The detail looks too fresh but I think that'll rub off pretty quick. I may weather the wheels a bit. Everything is still a work in progress. I'm working on boxes for the electronics (associated boxes). And I've thrown together a front battery plate. I'm also still working on mounting the body. I hope that my esc shows up tomorrow. I have the day off and hope to have a running rig by the end of the day.

 

[bvrc]

So I have a running truck now. Though, it seemed like I was trouble shooting all day long.

 

[bvrc]

One weak point I cam across today was the upper link mounts (where the links bolt into the chassis plate. Both the front and rear axial mounts broke. I made a few changes and I think it'll hold for now at least.

They truck is super top heavy, and tips over like a real 1:1. I may put the shorted scx10 shocks back on to try and be a bit more stable.

Also, I may need to get a new transmission housing. Two of the holes on the bottom of this transmission are totally stripped out. I knew the screws were a bit loose a few days ago, but today the screws just fell out. The holes on the bottom of the transmission won't hold a bolt at all. Anyone know of a quick fix for this? Or should I just order a new transmission housing?

 

[pobrockcrawler]

i had the same problem with my transmission, i tried fixing it by filling the holes with some epoxy resin and then drill the holes out again but the glue didn't want to set, so i just ordered some new transmission casing, it's so cheap you might as well and save yourself some hassle. i reckon if you moved the shocks into the higher holes on the shock hoops that would lover the centre of gravity which would make it less top heavy and in my opinion it would improve the look of your truck."thumbsup"