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bilinvic's Gmade GS02 BOM

I appreciate that Gmade changed from Phillips to all hex hardware, but going through the build I'm a little surprised at the amount of M2 hrdwr used compared to other brand kits. As stated, the plastic is definitely softer than MST, probably equivalent to Axial.

I'm jealous of the backyard too...as well as the rest of the island! "thumbsup"
 
I received my order from Junfac. I haven't installed the machined aluminum cantilever pivots because I switched to the "V" configuration.
I also found out that the output shafts for the differential pinion gears are not intended to be used with the Junfac GA44 driveshafts because it makes them too long and everything gets all bound up! You could use shorter Junfac driveshafts and then all would be good....but I just received the GA44 driveshafts so I'm going to use them. I like the new design of the Junfac driveshafts, the male section is now triangulated vs. round with a flat section; they look much stronger although I have never had an issue with the older design.
The heavy duty lockers are nice and they are keyed to fit onto the ring gear, like Boom Racing 10.2 gear sets. I'm sure I will never have an issue with these parts.
As nice as the Gmade machined aluminum C-Hubs are, I found out they are NOT compatible with the SSD knuckles...a fair bit of grinding would be required to make them work. For now, I'll soldier on with the stock plastic C-Hubs because I want to use the SSD knuckles with the brass weights. I'm hoping SSD C-Hubs will fit the Gmade axles....if anyone has a stock 10.2 C-Hub, can you test fit it on the Gmade axles and let me know please and thank you?
I have to say, the Gmade hex tool is a really nice piece and will be very handy on the bench and out on the trails; very good leverage to snug up the 7mm wheel nuts.







 
bilinvic said:
I'm hoping SSD C-Hubs will fit the Gmade axles....if anyone has a stock 10.2 C-Hub, can you test fit it on the Gmade axles and let me know please and thank you?
Click to expand...

I can test this on my Gom, do you think the axle is similar enough? They seem to be big and small versions of the same design.
 
Thanxs HumboldtEF...I don't have a stock 10.2 axle to compare with, but from memory it appears to be very similar.
 
2mtech said:
Did you apply any grease or other lube to the CVD's? Kinda seems like the lubricant vs dirt magnet conundrum...
Click to expand...


Great question and yes the conundrum there. :)


HumboldtEF said:
I opted to trim the shaft on the motor down to size, I used a pinion to find the ideal length and left it in place as a cutting guide, taped up the motor to hopefully prevent any metal particle getting into the motor, and its still working fine.
These must be longer because they're using flight based parts.

Great build, and thanks for sharing your testing. Oh and I'm super jealous of your back yard, it looks amazing "thumbsup"
Click to expand...


I trim motor shafts too as needed, always tape up motor or put it plastic bag with only shaft poking through. "thumbsup"


X2 on great build and nice yard.


OSRC said:
The more I see of this truck, the more I like it. Just pulled the trigger on one...

Thanks as always for the informative write-up!
Click to expand...


Awesome, another build thread! :)


bilinvic said:
I usually spray silicone lubricant into the CVDs to clean them and then I apply a drop of 3in1 oil to lubricate...same thing for the driveshafts.
Click to expand...


I'll give that a try, I've tried almost everything else. Currently I've been applying one drop of motor bushing oil occasionally. "thumbsup"
 
Never thought of using anti-squeeze as lube (TWSS).

I've been alternating between a dry spray wax and silicone motorcycle chain lube for squeaky Axial universals, with mixed results. Have a couple new things to try now! "thumbsup"
 
The stock SCX10.2 C hubs do fit on the Gom axles though they dont clamp on properly. The screw that runs through the Gom C hub is farther into the axle than the SCX10.2's so with a bit of force I can rotate it changing the caster angle. Maybe that can be remedied with a larger screw or something.

The overall length was the same to the knuckle mount/pivot holes but the SCX10.2 C hub inner most portion extends like 1/16" farther than the Gom's. I'm not sure if that would cause interference, my guess is no.



GXYDEHgl.jpg


I was able to get close to the 10* of caster that stock has BTW.

Let me know if you need more details, I still have it apart on the bench.
 
Great stuff as always, Bil. I just got mine out for my first test runs this afternoon. Stock cantilever setup is comically unstable, but I found a quick fix that makes it much better. I love the SR5 cab on yours, and your assessment of the Revolver is spot on (Roo has one in his TRX-4 kit build that's waiting on a body). Keep it up!
 
bilinvic said:
Thank you for testing the C-Hubs out HumboldtEF, I appreciate it. I think I'll just stick with the stock C-Hubs for now with the SSD knuckles.



Thank you new2rocks. I saw your quick fix on FB.
Click to expand...

What was the quick fix for the cantilever setup?

I guess I'll start on the BOM. I have some Boom Racing SCX10.2 C-Hubs. I'll let you know if they fit when I get to it.
 
Hey Bil, any chance you know which other driveshafts (length) will work if you use the option output shafts? I may look into going that route, and need to know which shafts will fit.
 
When I measure the distance using the rear Gmade metal driveshaft, the maximum length is 128mm from the diff housing to the trans housing. I'm using the the stock differential pinion output shafts for now, even though I have the other type on hand. For some reason, regular axial/MIP screw-pins won't fit in the holes unless they are enlarged a bit. The Gmade screw-pins must be a &*^%-hair narrower.
 
bilinvic said:
When I measure the distance using the rear Gmade metal driveshaft, the maximum length is 128mm from the diff housing to the trans housing. I'm using the the stock differential pinion output shafts for now, even though I have the other type on hand. For some reason, regular axial/MIP screw-pins won't fit in the holes unless they are enlarged a bit. The Gmade screw-pins must be a &*^%-hair narrower.
Click to expand...

I wonder if the Junfac Sawback shafts fit.
 
I was able to get the BOM out for a good run yesterday. My buddy and I ventured up some of the hardest, most difficult routes on Mt. Doug to really push the limits of our trucks and of course driving skill. The BOM did exceptionally good, but I did manage to shear a couple teeth off of one of the transmission gears....I was able to continue driving but had to limit the stresses put on the trans.

After I got home, I also noticed the Samix aluminum Panhard mount was bent and starting to crack. Time for an SSD shock hoop/Panhard mount.

The rear shocks in the "V" configuration worked very well. I added aluminum spacers to the rear axle shock mounts in order to get the ride height a little lower.

So far, I'm really loving this new rig from Gmade, but stay tuned, there's changes to come that will hopefully work out....

















 
I thought the cantilever rear suspension was a pretty unique feature on this rig. Was there a reason you ditched it? Or just personal preference?
 
I wanted to increase the wheelbase and it's not possible with the cantilever set-up. The "V" set-up performs much better too. I still may go back to the cantilever when Gmade's stiffer rear springs become available.
 
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