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Best First Upgrades - ECX Barrage

Redid the front shocks today and got my full size servo in. Really easy and worked like a charm.

I'll do the rears tonight.

Also found out one of my rear LEDs is burned out!!!
 
Hey guys what is the shaft size for the pinion gear? Looking to get a 12t 48p pinion because I feel like the truck is way too fast.
 
I added mirrors, windshield wipers, and made a bed cover for the rear tonight. The bed cover is just from felt...so I'll be hitting the store tomorrow to get some vinyl to finish it a bit better.
 
So, I've had my Chinese clone of the Barrage for a few months, and so far all I've done is cut the limiters out of the shocks and move out the front bumper to take away the rubbing of the tires against the bottom of the bumper. But, said bumper has since broken, so I have an aluminum replacement on the way. After reading most of these posts, I feel like I should just buy the V2 Doomsday F/R axles to avoid outboarding shocks and all other associated nonsense and struggles. I want to make this a solid, robust little mover, but I've noticed it's very top-heavy (I have the RGT Land Cruiser body) and prone to excess body roll/vehicle tip, and with my desire to put an aluminum roof rack/lightbar on the top only drives the top heavy point further. Has anyone found an alternative method of weighing down the lower portion of the vehicle that won't hinder crawling ability? I don't want to raise (or lower, depending on perspective) the shock towers until I solve the high center of gravity issue, but I'd like to keep the vehicle from tipping over on full turn. I know crawlers aren't supposed to make full speed turns, much like real life, but I feel stability can be achieved, or at least more than it currently has. I don't know, maybe I'm asking too much of my $130 truck, but I'd still like to tinker around with this one, since it's more or less obsolete since I got my Deadbolt. In any case, let me know what you guys think, and I'll be trolling around to see how you guys do with yours! Thanks in advance for the help and tips, great stuff so far!
 
They are not really clones per se as much as they are made from the same manufacturer for different vendors. In much the same way the ECX Temper, HSP Kulak, and Everest 16 are all the same truck in three different guises
 
Right. One of the key differences, which is also a significant problem, is that the chassis braces and shock towers are all one piece for front and rear, meaning 2 entire assemblies that I can't flip around for the clearance modification. So, I'm either going to have to live with limited front shock travel, or order towers/braces for the front to correct this issue. But, aside from that, I enjoy the vehicle, I just want to see what I can do with it, lol!
 
What you are going to want do is find a way to add more weight down low, maybe the age old stick on tire weights around the inside of the wheels? Brass wheel hexes? You could look in the axle housings to see if you have any voids you could glue pieces of solder into? Although that is kind of extreme.
 
Yeah, I've looked into the axial wheel weight rings and individual weights, and/or using the individual weights and some double-sided tape to place them in open areas clear of binding on top of the axle. As much as I'd love to get some beadlocked rims, that means I'd also have to get new tires, and the pictures of amazon purchased tires from earlier in the post are what came stock on my truck, so I'd like to keep those, so the beadlocked weights are a no-go for me. As far as placing things inside the axle, lol, they're pretty small, so I think I'm gonna avoid delving into that area. But, once my zip ties and tape come in, I'm gonna flip the battery and esc plate around to allow for more front weight, and possibly pull the trigger on ECX shock towers and chassis braces for the front. It's a slow road work-in-progress, but I feel I'll be ready when winter comes.
 
So, I went ahead and did the battery tray/esc & receiver tray flip, and quickly found out that that radically changed the weight distribution of the vehicle, even with the tiny 1200mah stock battery. I went from a 50/50 to a 60/40, so knowing how my deadbolt runs, which is the same, if not a 70/30, I didn't want this "ECX" to follow the same pattern of having the nose dip hard on body roll and tip over. So, I placed some dummy weights over the rear body posts (2 full rolls of electrical tape, 180 grams) and did a test run. While on hard surface, with the silicone limiters gone, I had more give in my body roll, and never tipped over. Grass and mulch, however, tipped, but had more time to correct myself out of it. So, the weight and shock mods are working, and I think I should be fine using the stick on tire weights on key parts of the chassis, but it's gonna have to wait a few days before I can get to a crude demo. I see a lot of tape and zip ties in my future, lol!
 
Bought a ecx barrage as well, used to have a scx10 but somehow decided to sell that years ago . Only mods I’ve done so far are the shock limiters and battery tray flip. I’m in the midst of finishing at Tamiya unimog body for it. Which works pretty good for it. I like it anyways.
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Is there an American vendor for the RGT or FTX bodies? I am about to pull the trigger on ones of these and require a Toyota body. The short wheelbase is perfect for the FJ40 bodies.

Also I have seen anything recent but has anyone got anywhere with a brushless setup? Using the mamba micro crawler with a brushless would be great. I have not heard good things about hobby king so not to keen to try a brushless from them.
Thanks


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Is there an American vendor for the RGT or FTX bodies? I am about to pull the trigger on ones of these and require a Toyota body. The short wheelbase is perfect for the FJ40 bodies.

Also I have seen anything recent but has anyone got anywhere with a brushless setup? Using the mamba micro crawler with a brushless would be great. I have not heard good things about hobby king so not to keen to try a brushless from them.
Thanks


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Unsensored brushless cogs at low speeds; brushed is recommended unless you want to spend more money on a sensored setup.
 
Unsensored brushless cogs at low speeds; brushed is recommended unless you want to spend more money on a sensored setup.



Yes I would want a sensored setup. No point having a unsensored motor in a crawler. Any ideas on something that will fit? Would like to find a setup to use with castle mamba x mini.


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motor is a 390. Also you need to look for a 1/18th pinion gear that's 48 pitch.

I've been looking in to a bigger spur gear to help slow it down.

The only other option I know of is to shave 1mm out the side of the trans to let the motor move over enough to get gear mesh.
 
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Good catch on the motor size, Hb. By the way your detailed posts about improving the Barrage are a big reason I bought my first crawler.



Anyway, I thought about bigger spurs too, though that might mean fabricating my own bull and pinion cover--which I'm not afraid to do. As for shaving down the gearbox housing I asked myself if it's worth it, for what would probably be a minor increase in torque. The crawler performs well as it is. I can't believe what it can do.



Maybe with gen 2 out soon, some manufacturer will release a compact yet more powerful motor with a 1/8 shaft, at an affordable price. Ha.



Cheers (gonna go crawl now)



Thanks guys for the info. Really appreciate it.


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