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Axial XR10 Tips & Tricks

Here's a good tip for bullet proof steering

Everyone has probably already changed their rod ends to 4mm revos, and that's what I used here too (Tra5347).

The steering drag link is 1/4" steel round stock, bent, drilled, and tapped to 4mm (Local Hardware Store)

My measurement after bends is 147.5mm - bare link end to end (Not eye to eye)

Measures 180mm eye to eye w/ bends and revo ends w/ V.P. Knuckles & Chubs (Same length for straight as well)

The servo link is made from a 4mm lunsford ti turnbuckle and traxxas jato rod ends (tra5525)

Link doesn't drag and barely hangs as you can see in pic. And I chose steel because it's not soft like aluminum and will slide over rocks easily

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For those who are using Losi springs they are loose on the Axial cups. The Losi spring cups will work just great"thumbsup"
Good tip, I had the same "problem" but I just use my pliers to make last coil little smaller. It helped also.

Small cut of shrink tube over cup and spring keep your cups safe. They tend to loose sometime.
 
If you clock the front inner C's back all the way (most amount of caster possible), you get the most amount of steering with stock components without the tires stuffing into the links/shocks. My Rovers barely rub the links now after clocking the C's back and that's full steering lock to lock with stock wheels.
 
Need help with the Electronics

Hi,

This is Imran here from Mumbai, India.
I have just recently puchased a XR10 and am still in the building process.
My setup is FX-R X 2 with tekin 55t motors.
I am facing extreme difficulty in getting the electronics in place. Would be grateful if someone could post zoomed in pics of their radio tray just to elaborate and help me how the wiring is to be placed and concealed.

Thanks

Imran
 
Hi,

This is Imran here from Mumbai, India.
I have just recently puchased a XR10 and am still in the building process.
My setup is FX-R X 2 with tekin 55t motors.
I am facing extreme difficulty in getting the electronics in place. Would be grateful if someone could post zoomed in pics of their radio tray just to elaborate and help me how the wiring is to be placed and concealed.

Thanks

Imran

hello Imran,

the Tekin FXR should fit cleanly, with the Dual ESC mount for the electrics plate... as for wiring i just see people try to do it their own way.. either messy, or clean. whatever works
 
Clipless xr-10 body mount:
the clipless options.

Materials needed:
time: about 5min, + time to go to osh or local hardware
money: about $8-9 depends on location and tax
hands or needle nose pliers

3 nylon screws, 5/16 X (your option in length) im using 1 inch for a really low body
6 nylon nuts, 5/16

i found out the 5/16 fits really snug with the axial stock body mount option, i used that and got the 5/16, it screws in too. with the 2 nuts per 1 screw, use the 1 screw to hold the body in position and the other to actually hold onto the body "thumbsup"
So i went to osh to pick up the screws and nuts:
IMG_5288.jpg


Screws with Serial number:
IMG_5290.jpg


Nuts with Serial Number:
IMG_5291.jpg


After finished:
IMG_5292.jpg
 
Hi,

This is Imran here from Mumbai, India.
I have just recently puchased a XR10 and am still in the building process.
My setup is FX-R X 2 with tekin 55t motors.
I am facing extreme difficulty in getting the electronics in place. Would be grateful if someone could post zoomed in pics of their radio tray just to elaborate and help me how the wiring is to be placed and concealed.

Thanks

Imran
this how i did mine."thumbsup"
l_ca2b48ea1c7f47faa70a675fa63644ca.jpg


l_cac688e8156f4bb19709efc0d39087ac.jpg

i mounted them on a custom electronics tray i made out of fiberglass and epoxy blend. i used the stock axial esc mount then mounted it to the tray. hope this helps. good luck
 
Clipless xr-10 body mount:
the clipless options.

Materials needed:
time: about 5min, + time to go to osh or local hardware
money: about $8-9 depends on location and tax
hands or needle nose pliers

3 nylon screws, 5/16 X (your option in length) im using 1 inch for a really low body
6 nylon nuts, 5/16

i found out the 5/16 fits really snug with the axial stock body mount option, i used that and got the 5/16, it screws in too. with the 2 nuts per 1 screw, use the 1 screw to hold the body in position and the other to actually hold onto the body "thumbsup"
So i went to osh to pick up the screws and nuts:
IMG_5288.jpg


Screws with Serial number:
IMG_5290.jpg


Nuts with Serial Number:
IMG_5291.jpg


After finished:
IMG_5292.jpg
another idea is to look in the rubber washer section of a hard rubber tapper washer that is 1 size to small that will allow the threads to bite into the rubber.
 
Zip ties from shock cup to spring won't do any good. The spring has an open end and will work it's way out of the zip tie.
You need to close the opening in the spring cup. If your cup don't have slots or holes in them, make some. Then run the zip tie from one hole to the other to close the opening in the cup and you won't lose the cup unless the zip tie breaks.
 
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