Hillbilly63026
Rock Stacker
Same thing happened to me
Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
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A Yeti for the Alllgäu or my little monster
- Thread starter magic_yeti
- Start date
magic_yeti
RCC Addict
Hope u got it also back in.
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Gesendet von meinem Nexus 5 mit Tapatalk
Hillbilly63026
Rock Stacker
No it kept coming out and tore up my shock tower I sent it back to vanquish and they gave me a new one
Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
magic_yeti
RCC Addict
Hope Mine will stay in place, will have an eye in it.
Find time to install the new bulkhead.
Looks nice. Comparision with orginal.
Gers back in and greased.
All premounted
Back in.
All fitted nice, no issues. Time will tell how it holds up.
One thing i I recomand to use some quality screws of your choice.
Gesendet von meinem Nexus 5 mit Tapatalk
Find time to install the new bulkhead.
Looks nice. Comparision with orginal.
Gers back in and greased.
All premounted
Back in.
All fitted nice, no issues. Time will tell how it holds up.
One thing i I recomand to use some quality screws of your choice.
Gesendet von meinem Nexus 5 mit Tapatalk
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magic_yeti
RCC Addict
Mounting the bulkhead i found a new issue.:shock: No clue how this happens, Set screw never broke or got loose?:evil:
Gesendet von meinem Nexus 5 mit Tapatalk
Gesendet von meinem Nexus 5 mit Tapatalk
Antsiranean
Quarry Creeper
Very interesting thread to someone looking into buying a Yeti. Seems to cost a fortune to keep that thing running? You must have spent twice as much on upgrades as you did on the original kit? A rather daunting prospect to someone with a limited budget. Do you drive it like you stole it?
magic_yeti
RCC Addict
It's not necessary to spend a fortune on the yeti. But i decided as i build my little monster that this will be a no budget build :mrgreen:. So if something breaks, what will start if u go 3s :twisted:, i look for the best replacement with out mentioning the price. And of cause i got many shiny parts on it that not really necessary.
Which makes it look nice but also really heavy (close to 5,5kg).Really necessary for the start in my eyes are the following things:
CI Deuce wild foams, alloy motor mount, beeftubes for the rear and better screws. maybe clamping lockouts, alloy hubs and alloy rims if they fit the budget.
And u need good tools, which is also to mention if u start with the hobby.
Cause i started without these my lockout in the rear got loose so i have to decide to get clamping lockouts and beeftubes or an new aftermarket axle (ok i got beeftubes anyway, cause i didn't know when the ssd axle will arrive), if u add the cost of these it's nearly the same price as the ssd diamond wide axle which eliminates the lockout and the need for wider hubs in the rear.
And yes the little monster got no mercy as i drive it
over all it's a blast driving it and i'm very happy with my decisions
magic_yeti
RCC Addict
Got some drive time, one of the last nice days. Have to-do some Body Work :mrgreen:
Next i have time to drive i think i could test these shoes in the snow.8):mrgreen:
Gesendet von meinem Nexus 5 mit Tapatalk
Next i have time to drive i think i could test these shoes in the snow.8):mrgreen:
Gesendet von meinem Nexus 5 mit Tapatalk
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Antsiranean
Quarry Creeper
On a closer look i found two laces in the transmission where bearings could fit as addition. so i installed two extra bearings. One between t-case and gearbox and one on the input side of the gearbox.:mrgreen:
If you haven't done it already, I think you should remove the extra bearing to the left in the picture above. It's too thick, and just gets squeezed between the slipper plate and the gearbox, increasing resistance. I followed your lead and put it in, but then found resistance in the drive train surprisingly high. Not that I knew what it should be like, but I looked it all through and found this bearing to be the issue. Now it's removed and everything rolls just fine. A 5x11x3 mm bearing might work, but not a 5x11x4mm.
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magic_yeti
RCC Addict
thx will go into this. i have not mentioned more resistance since i installed it. but definitely will check and report. maybe this is the cause of the whining i hear sometimes8)
Antsiranean
Quarry Creeper
If you have been driving it like that, I guess the bearing will have worked itself into the plastic of the gearbox housing, pushed into it by the spur gear spring. Will be interesting to hear what you find.
magic_yeti
RCC Addict
We got snow so i could test the winter boots.8)
It's heavy wet snow, no powder.
And over night the top ist frozen. So far the tires worked well, traction all the time and with the wider width they don't sink like the Voodoo klr or wildpeaks. "thumbsup"
Nice landing and then .....;-)
lost the chamber screw this ended testing, also mentioned some shifting issues have to check this.
more fresh snow is comming :mrgreen:
Send by my Pixel 2 XL with Tapatalk
It's heavy wet snow, no powder.
And over night the top ist frozen. So far the tires worked well, traction all the time and with the wider width they don't sink like the Voodoo klr or wildpeaks. "thumbsup"
Nice landing and then .....;-)
lost the chamber screw this ended testing, also mentioned some shifting issues have to check this.
more fresh snow is comming :mrgreen:
Send by my Pixel 2 XL with Tapatalk
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magic_yeti
RCC Addict
Didn't unmount spur, but checked if there is a binding or something else, but at all it's running smooth. Maybe it's working cause i changed also to the optional AX31164 Machined Slipper Plate (Hard Anodized)
Axial Racing - Machined Slipper Plate (Hard Anodized) (2pcs)
Antsiranean
Quarry Creeper
magic_yeti
RCC Addict
it's the gear head slim roof rack with lightbar mount, so the lightbar is direct attached to the roof rack.
Gear Head RC 1/10 Scale Yeti Slim Line Roof Rack with Light Bar Mount
got the Gear Head RC Axial Yeti Edition White and Blue Trail Torch plus Roof Rack Combo
Gear Head RC Axial Yeti Edition White and Blue Trail Torch plus Roof Rack Combo "thumbsup"
proline has an option which could be mounted lower than the roof:
5” Curved Super-Bright LED Light Bar Kit 6V-12V https://www.prolineracing.com/performance-parts/5-super-bright-led-light-bar-kit-6v-12v-curved/
6” Super-Bright LED Light Bar Kit 6V-12V https://www.prolineracing.com/performance-parts/6in-led-lightbar-curved
also nice option are onetoomany rc lightbars and they have free shiping "thumbsup"8)
https://onetoomanyrcs.com/products
all are waterproofed :mrgreen:
magic_yeti
RCC Addict
Little Monster in the snow. Have fun watching and merry christmas to all
<iframe src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/tDxE8IAtZno" gesture="media" allow="encrypted-media" allowfullscreen="" width="560" height="315" frameborder="0"></iframe>
<iframe src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/tDxE8IAtZno" gesture="media" allow="encrypted-media" allowfullscreen="" width="560" height="315" frameborder="0"></iframe>
magic_yeti
RCC Addict
Did some little maintenance on the front. I did mention a longer time some slop in the axle stubs. Found the issue.
My incission vdi have a large gap between inner bearing and the outer bearing, approx 3 mm. But the knuckles fill only 1 mm of this gap so there is a 2 mm slop by design. Or did i Miss something?
See picture compared to the gpm cvd.
Send by my Pixel 2 XL with Tapatalk
My incission vdi have a large gap between inner bearing and the outer bearing, approx 3 mm. But the knuckles fill only 1 mm of this gap so there is a 2 mm slop by design. Or did i Miss something?
See picture compared to the gpm cvd.
Send by my Pixel 2 XL with Tapatalk
diva2004
Newbie
Great build, looks awesome.
Which lights did you use for the front?
Thx
Which lights did you use for the front?
Thx
magic_yeti
RCC Addict
Thx. i use these Lights:
Gear Head RC Axial Yeti Edition White and Blue Six Shooter plus Mounting Kit Combo
Gear Head RC Axial Yeti Edition White and Blue Six Shooter plus Mounting Kit Combo
and
Gear Head RC Axial Yeti Edition White and Blue Trail Torch plus Roof Rack Combo
Gear Head RC Axial Yeti Edition White and Blue Trail Torch plus Roof Rack Combo
magic_yeti
RCC Addict
Took my little monster apart ;-) as shown in the other thread, cause it needs maintenance and some changes
changed steering knuckles to ssd version
have to rebuild the shox. they lost all oil, cause by soaked in diaphragm.
ordered 2 traxxas rebuild kits, green slime and axial alloy shock caps to replace the plastic ones. used 2 blue x-rings (replacing the plastic spacer) and the diaphragms of the rebuild kit refilled them with 700cst front and 500cst rear. will test the 56mm blue axial spring up front if i find them to side order, this will give more options in ride high.
after getting more used to crimping. i started my new wireing and for better maintenance i moved all electronics into the fuel cell (as i mentioned how many room there is, cause i use the tbr skid plate. after making the cables with rx in the receiver box so version 2 has to be made. I tested the fuel cell for about 1.5 (quick link, rx switches) years now and no water intrusion and in addition all electronic is waterproofed by seal spray, plasti dip or factory. it's now much cleaner not perfect but way better then before.
getting thru the transmission i found a bend top input shaft. replaced it with a new one
@Antsiranean as you can see there is no issue with the bearing, many room to the plate and there was way less dirt in it as the last time.
i think the trick is to use the optional hard anodized one, still no further grinding on the motor plate. have to investigate why the shaft bend maybe the bearing, but i guess improper gear mash was the issue so changed spur and pinion as well. will have an eye on it. all gear looks good so no replacement needed. cleaned and oiled all bearings - greased and reassembled.
as i did all the electronics and i saw this motor comming out from holmes i knew i will get this one to replace my loved cc 1410 3800kv (It will power my new Turnigy 2WD SCT). never really an issue as i trail/crawling with the little monster, cause i use the 2-speed but..... you know 8)
also changed gearing back to 19/64 but i will go down to 17/64 maybe more. no axial available so went with the gpm option and use the alu plats of the yeti xl. 8)
use a holmes sensor cable for the mamba monster x (cc adapter on the shelf for quick replacement). also replaced the harness of the esc (some little damage as it was ripped out in and accident)
also as i was at it replaced the plastic cups on the wb8hd with green alloy ones (little more blink ....) :mrgreen:8)
First Test drive for the revised little monster, new motor impressive very smooth startup, lots of power and speed. "thumbsup"
after a 30 min my little monster was a 2wd, new motor killed the diff ok was cracked before by the 1410 but :shock::twisted:
so back in the box and waiting for new parts.... next todo after replacements arrive
install a new bulkhead
, just arrived and no customs ..... first time from the states "thumbsup"
do the rear lights.
send by my Pixel 2 XL with Tapatalk
changed steering knuckles to ssd version
have to rebuild the shox. they lost all oil, cause by soaked in diaphragm.
ordered 2 traxxas rebuild kits, green slime and axial alloy shock caps to replace the plastic ones. used 2 blue x-rings (replacing the plastic spacer) and the diaphragms of the rebuild kit refilled them with 700cst front and 500cst rear. will test the 56mm blue axial spring up front if i find them to side order, this will give more options in ride high.
after getting more used to crimping. i started my new wireing and for better maintenance i moved all electronics into the fuel cell (as i mentioned how many room there is, cause i use the tbr skid plate. after making the cables with rx in the receiver box so version 2 has to be made. I tested the fuel cell for about 1.5 (quick link, rx switches) years now and no water intrusion and in addition all electronic is waterproofed by seal spray, plasti dip or factory. it's now much cleaner not perfect but way better then before.
getting thru the transmission i found a bend top input shaft. replaced it with a new one
@Antsiranean as you can see there is no issue with the bearing, many room to the plate and there was way less dirt in it as the last time.
i think the trick is to use the optional hard anodized one, still no further grinding on the motor plate. have to investigate why the shaft bend maybe the bearing, but i guess improper gear mash was the issue so changed spur and pinion as well. will have an eye on it. all gear looks good so no replacement needed. cleaned and oiled all bearings - greased and reassembled.
as i did all the electronics and i saw this motor comming out from holmes i knew i will get this one to replace my loved cc 1410 3800kv (It will power my new Turnigy 2WD SCT). never really an issue as i trail/crawling with the little monster, cause i use the 2-speed but..... you know 8)
also changed gearing back to 19/64 but i will go down to 17/64 maybe more. no axial available so went with the gpm option and use the alu plats of the yeti xl. 8)
use a holmes sensor cable for the mamba monster x (cc adapter on the shelf for quick replacement). also replaced the harness of the esc (some little damage as it was ripped out in and accident)
also as i was at it replaced the plastic cups on the wb8hd with green alloy ones (little more blink ....) :mrgreen:8)
First Test drive for the revised little monster, new motor impressive very smooth startup, lots of power and speed. "thumbsup"
after a 30 min my little monster was a 2wd, new motor killed the diff ok was cracked before by the 1410 but :shock::twisted:
so back in the box and waiting for new parts.... next todo after replacements arrive
install a new bulkhead
, just arrived and no customs ..... first time from the states "thumbsup"
do the rear lights.
send by my Pixel 2 XL with Tapatalk
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