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3D hard body CJ-5 custom build

10.25" wheelbase using stock MRC links at the outer most holes (longest WB possible with stock links. Inner most holes on chassis will get you real close to 8.5" with stock links. Miner link adjustment and you can make it whatever WB you like. Add some Dlux shock relo pieces to outboard the shocks for a stable and less floppy rig and you will be happy

Nice project you have."thumbsup""thumbsup"

 
You could use the rc4wd k44 axles. But I think thay are a bit wide, but better then scx10 axles. Plus they are really scale!
 
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altered my RedCat Everest16
to become an 1/6 scale quad 8)

started with a $ 20. 1/6 scale walmart rc toy














sooo... anything can be something else...
if ya have the mind to do that.

I will say that both the Exc Maxstone16 and RC Everest16
crawl extremely slow if sticking with the brushed 260 mtr. from the rtr kit
They have plenty of torque... but no high rpm's or speed.

Changing to a 280 sized mabuchi mtr. will likely increase the rpms
as the 280 offers more rpm.

But if ya go with brush-less instead.... it will be even faster.

But of course... ^ that could break drive line parts !? Lol

Oh and if ya 4 link the suspension...
it will flex less... but look more realistic.
Yes Redcat sells the links to do that.

good luck on your build "thumbsup"
look forward to seeing where you go with it.
 
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Lol. Nice. I think I'm on hold till I get a suitable chassis. Maybe I'll hit the LHS in the AM, but there's more to build so I'll try not to rush myself. Yeah, right...
 
So, my buddy brings over that Losi so I can check it out, and see how it might work.

I know what you're thinking....


That wheelbase is PERFECT!!
Not what you're thinking?

Thinking that Rock looks Slick???

Right.

At least that's cleared up. Gotta find one of these...but I may still go to the LHS and see about the Everest16.
 
how's that little motor do on the rocks?
One of the things that (kinda) concerns me, is the Everest is a TVP design. Those are "illegal" in all 3 classes...
Not that I compete on a regular basis, but...one day...
the wee 260 has plenty of low end torque, crawls/steers acceptably.
but like most rtr's, the steering servo needs upgrading.
Does purdy good in the rocks... Just not fun driving to them. Lol
I'd just pick it up and walk it to the rocks, throw down and crawl.
geared fairly low. maybe 4mph top speed pushing a headwind ? Lol

The 260 mtr's rpm is low... (mabuchi rc260-ra)
and so... it runs slow but works well in tight quarters.
can't spin the tires at all and on occasion that is helpful.

I think the RedCat mtr spins even slower then the mabuchi 260


swapping for the Mabuchi rc280sa
will possibly offer improved wheel speed.

bushless should offer even more wheel speed - top end...
but maybe not as smooth/precise at slow stall speeds.
And it also tends to be more ruthless on stock drive components.
not to mention more costly.

be fairly simple to make a different frame for it
I don't compete, so I don't know/care about sanctioning rules
But I'm sure the suspension/drive syst could be adapted
to a class legal home built chassis of some sort ?

What makes the RC Everest rtr worthy of buying...
is because of it's the low $ 99. buy in cost.
and that it works fairly well right outta da box (charge req'd)

I believe the rtr kit can be purchased with a brushless system.
Likely more dolla' but maybe worth it.

RedCat also sells the 4 link stuff to replace the 3 link carp
and doing that settles the articulation so that it functions more scale like.

Inquire direct: RedCat Racing

for me... I don't crawl too fast with my quad anyways...
cause the rider's weight/profile kills the COG. Lol

think I'm going to try the 280...
see if it holds up and spins the tires a little.

 
Nice to see a 3D printed CJ-body! Looks like it's well in the measurements and propositions. These older Jeeps make perfect scale rigs! Good work so far.
 
Geez, where did we leave off?

I have reached a "stopping point" on the Dudge scratch build.
I'm not done, it's prolly "never" be done. But I digress.




Got the Lick Rock stripped to the point where I can make it work. Or so I had thought.
There's really not much now on the CJ that's still Vaterra. I'll try to explain as I go.



Gluing the "belly" or lower frame (?) onto the CJ tub. I used gut feeling and a few measurements to line up the rear axle, as I planned on shortening the front links.
I did, shorten the upper links, both front and rear to correct that nasty factory pinion angle.




I was forced to either buy a transfer case and move everything up front, or make the transmission tunnel a bit larger.
This method is way faster than Prime.




Gluing the front upper shock mount in place.




Uh-oh, my lil' glue sniffer is all tuckered out...
 


Getting the rear shocks figured out was a pain. The shocks that came with the Lick Rock were WAY too long to be of any use. Luckily I had this old miniLosi roller laying around...



The front is a different problem all together...
I had to move the steering servo mounts to the rear hole on the mounting plate. That required a bit of creativity. I ditched the servo saver, and went with a traditional "plus sign" horn. I just mounted the ball half of a "ball and cup" setup to the horn. Next I had to relieve the servo mounting plate where the cup/linkage/horn was interfering with the travel.



Made a bumper, and radiator (if you want to call it that).



Definitely got some sanding to do!!!



I've already had it out on the trail. It's got merit.
So I decided to continue the project, which is a VERY good thing 'cuz that Lick Rock is NOT going back together....



Size comparison between the CJ and the Dudge.
 
Here's a quick little update.
I sanded on the body for a bit.
Lowered the rear a bit by removing the lower spring cups.
Those things are over rated anyway. lol.
I'll try to source some shorter springs somewhere...
I sanded some and went for a short crawl. The rig just kinda felt top heavy.
Well, it is a CJ.
So went back to the shop, and while I was sanding, I noticed a set of wheels/tires on the rack. As much as I like those baby TSLs, they just don't work on this setup anymore.
I decided to use these wagons I got in trade with a Trail Stomper.
Someone had weighted the fronts, removed all the foams, and drilled holes in the tire treads. I was going to pitch them...
I also did a bit of homework, and discovered that the baby ESC is LiPo ready.
Looks like the Kemora lost it's LiPo privileges...
That makes me happy for two reasons. LiPos are lighter, so less weight up high where I don't want it. And it's a higher capacity pack. Longer run times plus a 3c charge rate!!!
After another brief crawl, I was happy with the performance.


Started on the roll bar fabrication. I sanded that too.
Instead of welding it, or taking it to get brazed, impatient me decided to solder.
A decision I'll surely regret at the most inopportune time...



But hey, It looks cool for now. Now if I could just find a way to mount it...

sand
 
This CJ5 hard body looks awesome! I have been wanting to get a 3d printer and do a CJ8 hard body, but the design software is more than a bit intimidating to me. Great work on this!
 
This CJ5 hard body looks awesome! I have been wanting to get a 3d printer and do a CJ8 hard body, but the design software is more than a bit intimidating to me. Great work on this!

Be Aware, it's not as easy as I thought it would be. The only advantage this has over scratch building is that I make a copy of this one. (If I ever want more punishment)


Over the past few days I've added little things here and there.




I made lights for the rear. They work (reverse too) but nothing is wired yet..



added buckets for the front.



Added hood hinges and windshield rests. Wipers...
I did a lil' paint work here and there.





Built the dash to a point where I think I'm done with it.
Made a rear bumper and mount, too.



Not sure which direction to go with the paint. I'm not sure I want to do a color change at this point...
 
quick little update.

Against my better judgement, I went with the color change. I just couldn't get the brown to look right.
I did the "salt technique" to get the chips in the red paint.
While I was heat curing the salt, I warped the windshield. Oops.
Lesson learned. I've started on a new windshield. But there's still some trimming, fitting, and gasket making yet to do.



Gotta build windshield frame hinges and mirrors, maybe play with the paint some more. Who knows.
 
Here's a few pics, I think I might be done with this one....
for now.









Cheers.
(don't forget to drink your Ovaltine)
 
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I've been busy with work, and building other projects.
I kinda forgot where I left off.

I added some decals to the sides, and a few other things...
I worked on the Dudge a bit too, but that's another thread...











Who knows, I may go back and try to smooth out the seats, and get the floor pan up to my standards...
Cheers!!
 
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