3D hard body CJ-5 custom build

[HANgOVER Airbrush RC]

(Mods help me out, But I think this is where this goes?)

So I bought this box. It was big. Inside, was another box, but plastic, and has other cool stuff inside. It says "3D PRINTER" on the front. Weird. I thought all printers occupied three dimensions, but I plugged it in anyway.



Getting this thing to talk politely to Windows was a chore, but after a few Coors Lights I got them to put away their differences and shake hands.

After a few minutes of tinkering around, the 3D printer started making some noises that sounded like a cross between "techno" and Kerry King shredding some chromatic scale...

I made a front motor mount for my SCX. Cool.

I've always wanted a hard body, and I've always wanted a CJ. My Dad has an 80 CJ-5, so I'm thinking why not, right?

So after some quality time with Blender 3D, and a few more beers, I export a few parts to the slicer software that's bundled with the printer.

I adjust a few settings, and more "techno"



Cool. I like where this is going.
Now let's make something for the windshield frame to sit upon...




Awesome. Now we're getting somewhere...

Next, some fenders...



...I have no idea yet how I'm gonna mount all this to the SCX chassis, and what mods will be made to accommodate such a short wheelbase. Time will tell.
No doubt custom links, maybe a custom transmission mount too...
Well, the cowl is done. Time to work...

 

[HANgOVER Airbrush RC]

Well it was bound to happen...I had "issues" with a print.
Not necessarily with the print itself, but trying to remove it from the bed.
It was really stuck. I've been reading on the internet that so many people have issues with the prints not sticking... And I'm the one who has to search the opposite.
Go figure.

Anyway, I think I can just make up the part that broke off with a little styrene, sanding, and some magic. As for the crack, I just squeezed a bit of acetone in there, and held pressure on it for a bit...seems to be good as new.

(Dog hair NOT to scale)


Here's what I got so far.


Printing a fender right now. I had intended to print both at the same time, but for some reason the slicer software wouldn't allow it.

 

[Noll11]

Very nice! good to see more people printing bodies .

 

[BrazinScaleRC]

i've got the same printer, been running it for a year now. finally flashed it to repetier and love it even more than i did before. body is looking good!

 

[HANgOVER Airbrush RC]

seems like the obvious thing, right?
I've been playing around with Blender 3D for years, and I never thought I would ever get to touch something I created in only 3D space.

There is a bit of a learning curve, as with everything of course, for examples: Make the parts thicker than what you think they should be.
Non-Manifold??? 3D-ers care not about "manifold..."
Always print at the highest setting(?)
Where to chop the parts so they fit the print bed...
the last is maybe the hardest. Some places are obvious. Split the fenders where the fenders should split...but others need more attention/imagination.

There's more, but I just make it up as I go...

Now I gotta go stare at this chassis, and imagine it shorter...

 

[fr8cture]

So awesome....I've wanted a scale CJ5 for a long time now.

 

[HANgOVER Airbrush RC]

Last night, I printed the forward right half of the floorpan. It didn't come out well at all...There is a spot that was too thin to print, I guess.
Oh well, I'll prolly just use it anyway, and make a band-aid with more styrene.

Today I fixed the issue with the floorpan, and printed the left side. Came out much better. I started "gluing" pieces together. Simple process, acetone just melts the parts together. Some might call this a chemical weld?
I have two glass jars, one straight acetone, the other has a mix of ABS and acetone. The mix I use to fill gaps when bonding two parts.




Half a floorpan installed...




The cocktail gives a few seconds of "set-up" time. It's not like super glue. But not enough time where I can screw around with taking pics.

The process is done one of two ways...
Either position the parts how they will fit, and then use the brush to add the acetone mix; or, paint the edges to be bonded, and then hold the parts together.
I've found (so far) that both methods have their own advantages.

After the parts have been positioned and bonded, it's best to let them "heal" for a while. The acetone takes a little time to fully evaporate, meanwhile the joint will be soft and pliable.

Almost out of the demo filament that came with the printer. I ordered some black, but I think I'll try to print a few more small things before I swap cartridges...

Meanwhile, I gotta figure out how to shave 4" off the SCX's wheelbase...
A 1/10 scale CJ-5 should be right around 8.3 inches...

...open to ideas...

 

[fr8cture]

that wheelbase doesnt sound possible at all. Maybe with a losi mini.

 

[HANgOVER Airbrush RC]

Losi Mini? Where's the fun in that? lol

Progress,
well, I don't know if it's progress or not. I'm left with more questions than answers.

I realize this "aint no HeadQuake" build...but I'm sure I can figure something out.


I'm not opposed to leafs, but I already have a "spare" SCX.

Custom frame might be the answer...but I have another idea I might try first.

 

[TacoCrawler]

cool project

but the smallish cj body looks more like it's 1/18 scale
and needs a similar chassis/drive train under that ?

btw the 1/10 scale axles look too large under that wee body.
Well if scale realism means anything.


solutions...

purchase a low buck Exceed or Redcat 1/16 chassis $ 100. rtr
or something similar 1/16 - 1/18

or

re-print that cj body so it's 1/10 scale ;-)

~ wish I had me one of those printers...
I'd print out an 1/6 scale Toyota Tacoma body assembly ~

 

[HANgOVER Airbrush RC]

the body is 1/10 scale. That was/is the point of making it myself.

Did you mean "print it at whatever scale fits the SCX?"
...but then it won't be 1/10...

I might look into that 16th RedCat...
Might even look up the specs on the Mini Losi...
Thanks for your help...

 

[fr8cture]

Most bodies that fit a scx are 1/8th

 

[HANgOVER Airbrush RC]

that wheelbase doesnt sound possible at all. Maybe with a losi mini.

I just did some research. My buddy has one. Says the wheelbase is 8.5. Too close not to try, but it's a TVP.
I wonder how much I'll have to change so I can get it to class 1 spec...

Geez...

Might do a custom frame...
I remember seeing narrowed SCX axles on shapeways, anyone know the assembled width?
Or un-assembled width?

Thanks for all the help guys...

 

[TacoCrawler]

Most bodies that fit a scx are 1/8th

my Honcho body's wb is 12.3"

and a 1:1 extended cab Tacoma wb measures 121.9"

I'd doubt that margin of difference would evolve this particular body
into becoming 1/8 scale.
but hey... I'm no math genius

The cj doesn't look to be 1/10 scale to me.
but hey... maybe that's just my perception.

 

[HANgOVER Airbrush RC]

Taco,
According to the Internet, which is never wrong, a CJ-5's wheelbase circa 1980 should be 83".
That's what I based my model upon. I believe manufacturers arbitrarily scale bodies to fit the factory SCX wheelbase so that end users need not adjust our trucks. I really wish someone out there would make "true" 1/10 scale bodies.
But then this build wouldn't have happened...

 

[TacoCrawler]

83.5" ;-) :mrgreen:

^ according to wiki


Wheelbase

• 81 in (2,057 mm) (1954-1971)
• 83.5 in (2,121 mm) (1972-1983)

Over-all dimensions

• Length 138.2 in (3,510 mm)
• Width 68.5 in (1,740 mm)
• Height 67.7 in (1,720 mm)

I thought that maybe my honcho body was not proportioned correctly
but I measured the width at the rocker's at 6.6"
That closely replicates the 1:1 1st gen Tacoma's width of 66.5" - 66.54"

The 1:1 cj5 seemingly specs to be wider then my Tacoma ? :shock:
or possibly that width measurement includes the external dvr. mirror
and the spare tire out back !?

beats me... it's probably a jeep thing and I'm not privy !? :roll: Lol

The scx-10 chassis/drive train is likely what's not true to 1/10 scale...
as the axle housing(s) look too large to be 1/10 scale.
But they're close enough to make work if the body fits near correct.

did you input the cj's over-all body dimensions into the printer ?
Can't solely be determined by the WB alone I'd think ?

^ maybe the axial jeep bodies aren't a true 1/10 scale size as was stated prior !?

must be that !? :dunno:

For your evaluation
measurements of my Redcat Everest16

WB = 9"
over-all L = 12.5"
over-all tire W = 7"
the axle wms is nearer 5" (wheel offset could be varied)
tires are 1.5" wide X 3 3/4" tall

bad: all the smaller crawlers kits
cannot fit a 540 sized motor generally speaking.
My everest16 has a wee 260 can.
And while possibly a 280 can would fit, speed it up a little.
It's probably better to go brush-less if speed were a goal.

Another cool thing to note...
the hubs are the standard 12mm hex
so any 1.9 could be fitted.

 

[Dready]

Cant you adjust your figures and print a bigger one? Im sure someone would buy this smaller one off you in the bst.

 

[fr8cture]

Yeah I'd readjust to print in 1/8th scale then your wb would be 10.4" and you could use a STRC SWB chassis or stock scx with quite a bit of work.

 

[HANgOVER Airbrush RC]

So apparently [F12], [F12], [backspace] is the same as [alt] + [left arrow] and if you accidentally press those keys in that order, you lose everything you just typed in your browser....

The 07 JK four door has a wheelbase of 116, according to FourWheeler magazine.
The Pro-Line JK 4 door fits 12.3 Dingo. 116/12.3=9.43. So that's a 1/9.5-ish scale.

The XJ measures in at 101.4 (Wiki)
In order to fit that onto a 12.3 wheelbase, the lid has been scaled to 8.24.

That's why my "true" 1/10 scale looks so small.
In order to fit a CJ to the SCX, I'd have to print it at 1/6.7.

Taco, those dimensions are way too close to ignore...
how's that little motor do on the rocks?
One of the things that (kinda) concerns me, is the Everest is a TVP design. Those are "illegal" in all 3 classes...
Not that I compete on a regular basis, but...one day...

 

[hotwheels000]

L trail chassis from TCS crawlers and a losi mini will get you right where you want to be. I believe the other 1/18 rigs will work with that chassis but I have zero experience with those rigs. Parts and after market support is great for the Losi MRC... L trail is a legal chassis also"thumbsup"Try and find a MRC Pro, they have locked diffs and trans along with better shocks to start with. It will save you almost 100.000 bucks in the long run.