rmdesignworks
I wanna be Dave
or make a bent body brace for the rear between the tails of the chassis so that the brace makes up for the cut off length...I wish I had known you were having this bad of an issue...I would have helped you fix it...
-
Welcome to RCCrawler Forums.
It looks like you're enjoying RCCrawler's Forums but haven't created an account yet. Why not take a minute to register for your own free account now? As a member you get free access to all of our forums and posts plus the ability to post your own messages, communicate directly with other members, and much more. Register now!
Already a member? Login at the top of this page to stop seeing this message.
28's Creeper
- Thread starter 28offroader
- Start date
or make a bent body brace for the rear between the tails of the chassis so that the brace makes up for the cut off length...I wish I had known you were having this bad of an issue...I would have helped you fix it...
28offroader
Quarry Creeper
Well that's a relief then. Would've been a bummer to have to cover up the chassis. I'll work on getting something fabbed up for the rear.
I looked to late but checked out venomcrawlerdudes pics and seen how his was mounted. From what I'm seeing the axle is rolled forward more... raising the servo and clearing the front of the chassis. Can't say for sure if that's what my issue was or not. When setting the front axle up I was thinking keeping the axle level as possible would be best for steering and the pinion angle.
Could be link lengths, but I'm still just a tad over 12.5" axle stub to axle stub at it's longest length so I'm not thinking the fronts need to be any longer....just the rears needing to be shorter.
So without much more thinking I just chopped it off, lol. Guess I'll have to learn the hard way.
Hav'nt seen this posted anywhere and I'm now curious to know....what are you guys running for lower link lengths from centered mounting points on rigs running the xrv-2....straight line not including any bends?
I looked to late but checked out venomcrawlerdudes pics and seen how his was mounted. From what I'm seeing the axle is rolled forward more... raising the servo and clearing the front of the chassis. Can't say for sure if that's what my issue was or not. When setting the front axle up I was thinking keeping the axle level as possible would be best for steering and the pinion angle.
Could be link lengths, but I'm still just a tad over 12.5" axle stub to axle stub at it's longest length so I'm not thinking the fronts need to be any longer....just the rears needing to be shorter.
So without much more thinking I just chopped it off, lol. Guess I'll have to learn the hard way.
Hav'nt seen this posted anywhere and I'm now curious to know....what are you guys running for lower link lengths from centered mounting points on rigs running the xrv-2....straight line not including any bends?
rmdesignworks
I wanna be Dave
I use stock lowers up front....look close at my pics and youll see the lowers are mounted to the outside of the front stays and uppers are mounted to the inside and some crazy bends to them.
My rears are straightened stock lowers with the short bend still there...then cut down 1.125"...uppers are actually stock uppers now...Ill be testing out the latest set up tonight at the local sporty comp.
My rears are straightened stock lowers with the short bend still there...then cut down 1.125"...uppers are actually stock uppers now...Ill be testing out the latest set up tonight at the local sporty comp.
28offroader
Quarry Creeper
I run stock lowers up front also and do have the rear lowers cut but not as much as needed. With are different bends on the links it's hard to tell by pics what the actuall length is..., that's why I was wanting to get actuall measurement for comparison. I'll measure mine tonight and see where it's at. Just trying to figure out where I went wrong with it.
28offroader
Quarry Creeper
Had a pin snap on the rear 3-racing driveshaft yoke. Picked up a set of Traxxas hardened yokes and driveline, I'll give these a go and see how they hold up. The plastic driveshaft were always a weak link in every other r/c I've had that has had them.....but if everyone says they work on the crawlers so I'll try em out before spending big bucks on the heavy jun-fac, punisher or mip's.
Also, does anyone know where to buy the flm diff locker? Can't seem to find them f/s anywhere.
Also, does anyone know where to buy the flm diff locker? Can't seem to find them f/s anywhere.
winnerone23
I wanna be Dave
Why the flm diff lockers? A diff rig other then the creeper? Rmdw has Lincoln lockers for the diffs, best for ur buck..
Anyways, the traxxas shafts are awesome! You should like them.. I do..
Anyways, the traxxas shafts are awesome! You should like them.. I do..
28offroader
Quarry Creeper
FLM makes a locker for the Creeper. I want the flm's because it'll be lighter than rmdw's. I've read that rotational mass is one culprit for torque twist. Now the weight difference between the 2 may not even make a difference but if I have an option of a lighter or heavier alternative I'm going with the lighter one. (that's another reason for going with the Traxxas driveline over the heavier alternatives). If my rig did'nt have this nasty tt then I'd buy rmdw's lockers.
But so far I've done just about everything recommended for a tt cure and nothings seems to be helping.
Just installed some Losi silver springs in the rear and that seemed to help much more with the tt then anything else I've done so far.
winnerone23
I wanna be Dave
Can you take a pic or two of ur link setup an post them as they are now? All I did was a 15mm spacer between the rear link tab an added ball ends on the outside of the tabs then screwed my rear links into it all, helped a lot! Rovers, lipo, losi white springs.. barely any tt. Some chassis roll but don't find my front right wheel lifting for much of any reason other then binding my tires up once in a while.. my front links just have a 15mm spacer between the tabs. 6oz up front 3 in the rear wheels. An for The last week two oz on each side of the front axle
28offroader
Quarry Creeper
I'll get some pics up tomorrow.
You're running the stock chassis right? When I had the losi shocks on the stock chassis the tt was less, but that's because of the suspension limiting of the shocks being shorter than the stock venoms. If I lower my rig, limit the suspension or run a droop suspension then the tt is lessened. None of which I want to do though. If I have to run the rig with only around 2" of ground clearance at the chassis to rid of the tt I'll just buy a different crawler...but I'm willing to try several options before it comes to that point.
You're running the stock chassis right? When I had the losi shocks on the stock chassis the tt was less, but that's because of the suspension limiting of the shocks being shorter than the stock venoms. If I lower my rig, limit the suspension or run a droop suspension then the tt is lessened. None of which I want to do though. If I have to run the rig with only around 2" of ground clearance at the chassis to rid of the tt I'll just buy a different crawler...but I'm willing to try several options before it comes to that point.
rmdesignworks
I wanna be Dave
Can you take the wheels off and get some pics of it from the sides front and rear...then form above front and rear? Id like to help you get this thing better set up.
28offroader
Quarry Creeper
Will do, I'll have the pics up sometime tonight...
28offroader
Quarry Creeper
Found out the problem with the btl plate. Did'nt realize the c-hubs had a left and right...(found that out in a different thread..)...and of course they're on backwards, causing the axle to be rolled back. Going to fix it after this post..
Got the pics...lmk if you guys want anything else specific...thanks in advance for the help..
Got the pics...lmk if you guys want anything else specific...thanks in advance for the help..
Last edited:
winnerone23
I wanna be Dave
Nice pics, great lookin rig! I want my chassis so bad.. goin to start my truss soon, just got a tap today so I could make links to length.. I like ur all raw aluminum look.
28offroader
Quarry Creeper
Thanks man. I'm going to stay with the raw aluminum look.
Picked some tin sheets up for the panels. Have one side done but 3 more to go....
winnerone23
I wanna be Dave
Nice!
28offroader
Quarry Creeper
Just about, only items I don't have are his lockers and foams.
28offroader
Quarry Creeper
Got a lot of work done to the creeper today....it's getting close to being finished..
First up was re-mounting the losi shocks. Using the suplied mounts or doing the fuel tube mod I could'nt get the mounts as solid as I'd like so I stole an idea from my Dark Soul shock shafts on my 5T. I picked up a set of Hillman rubber grommets from Lowes. They're 7/16 od and 3/16 id, a tight fit into the eyelet but they do fit.
I also bought the Losi titanium mounts thinking they would be direct fit but sadly they're not....I had to slightly enlarge the hole on the chassis but not by much. I also checked the grommets with just a spacer and 3mm screws and I was able to get the mount tight and still have play for shock movement. These grommets are a much better option than fuel tubing imo...and cheap at only $1.27 each.
I shortened my rear lower links to maintain the 12-1/2" wheelbase per comp rules. Re-adusted my front upper links for better ackerman after fixing the c-hub oops..
Next was finishing the panels. The tin was really easy to work with and was able to get the roof and hood mounted just by rolling the tin around the chassis brace.
Not sure though if I'll leave it just how it is or maybe throw some stickers or a design on it. Whatcha guys think?
First up was re-mounting the losi shocks. Using the suplied mounts or doing the fuel tube mod I could'nt get the mounts as solid as I'd like so I stole an idea from my Dark Soul shock shafts on my 5T. I picked up a set of Hillman rubber grommets from Lowes. They're 7/16 od and 3/16 id, a tight fit into the eyelet but they do fit.
I also bought the Losi titanium mounts thinking they would be direct fit but sadly they're not....I had to slightly enlarge the hole on the chassis but not by much. I also checked the grommets with just a spacer and 3mm screws and I was able to get the mount tight and still have play for shock movement. These grommets are a much better option than fuel tubing imo...and cheap at only $1.27 each.
I shortened my rear lower links to maintain the 12-1/2" wheelbase per comp rules. Re-adusted my front upper links for better ackerman after fixing the c-hub oops..
Next was finishing the panels. The tin was really easy to work with and was able to get the roof and hood mounted just by rolling the tin around the chassis brace.
Not sure though if I'll leave it just how it is or maybe throw some stickers or a design on it. Whatcha guys think?
rmdesignworks
I wanna be Dave
The rig look really good bro...kudos!
winnerone23
I wanna be Dave
Good chit! Looks awesome all raw aluminum! Great idea on shock mounts.. how much were the posts you mounted the shocks too?
