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1/6th Chevy Monster Truck

The X-axles arn't the weak link, thier prob the strongest axle out there. The reason why your breaking axle housing is because your center sections arn't supported in anyway. If ya use the x-factors stock servo mounts you prob wouldn't have the issues your having. The 1/6 SS I built has all stock X axles with diff lock in the axles with all the set screws red loctited haven't had any issues yet.. It looks like yours has had alot harder life than mine but if ya take the bracing into consideration it may help..
 
The X-axles arn't the weak link, thier prob the strongest axle out there. The reason why your breaking axle housing is because your center sections arn't supported in anyway. If ya use the x-factors stock servo mounts you prob wouldn't have the issues your having. The 1/6 SS I built has all stock X axles with diff lock in the axles with all the set screws red loctited haven't had any issues yet.. It looks like yours has had alot harder life than mine but if ya take the bracing into consideration it may help..

The center section still has the (4) through bolts that bolt it all together. For the front I have a custom servo mount that ties the (4) holes together around the outside of the center section. It could possibly be that the ring and pinions I've used have been worn and the weight and power from the truck just brought out how bad they were. The ring and pinion are my biggest issue. I just can't bring myself to spend the money on a new set to see if that's the issue or not.
 
Most x-factor axles need to have the ring and pinion shimmed tighter to eachother. when the x first was released, XTM released an axle shim kit a little while later. I was pretty much just brass washers, but a couple behind the pinion and 1 or 2 on the ring gear side, hold the gears tighter together so there is more contact and less slack. I shredded more than one set when I first bought my x, but have had no problems since the shim kit was installed.
 
I never knew XTM sent out shim kits for these axles. I did shim them with shims I had though to get the ring and pinion tight. I think some of it has to do with both gear sets I've used have been used parts. I've never dropped in a new ring and pinion, shimmed them and then ran them. I'm a little reluctant to do that since they are pretty pricey.
 
hey Nick nice rig. I saw these clod axials though you might be intrested in them"thumbsup"

http://www.jpspro.com/images/Dual Motor.jpg

I've seen those before. Kind of a waste if you ask me, not to mention they aren't realistic looking at all. The motors that are out now-a-days have PLENTY of power. I'm running two puller motors and I'm being easy on the throttle and they are still tearing up the axles while running 8" tires. No need for more power than that.
 
Hey, Nickrummy: What version of the diffs are you running? There are three versions, from what I've seen:

The earliest version uses a pretty thin ring gear that I figure flexes and causes lots of problems. This one uses a 2-piece differential case to hold the planetaries in place, and the ring gear bolts to it.

The second version came out with the Mammoth ST and I think the XT-2, and it has a thicker, beefier ring gear that is integrated with the bearing mount and the part that holds that end of the planetaries. The ST seemed to have far fewer diff problems, but mine still skipped until I installed the center diff. I didn't shim it as tight as some folks did, though the consensus was that the nitro truggy would still trash the diffs without the center diff.

The latest version comes in the MMT and XST, and it uses bevel gears inside the diff. Otherwise it's the same as the Mammoth ST and XT-2. Obviously locking the bevel diffs is much more difficult than doing the planetaries (install the planetaries "wrong" and you lock up the diff), and I'm not sure about the way the bevel diffs' drive cups are designed - they look like a weak point to me.

Then there's the aluminium diff carrier option, which my XF has. I'm guessing that this would make the diff itself much stronger, but I can't see how that would fix an early ring gear. The later ring gear would still work with this carrier, and this should be really quite strong.

Of course, on the XF / XF2 axles, the weakest point (IMO) is the pinion gear and the total lack of stiffness in that area. It walks away from the ring gear and slips. Supporting this area would be a good idea... maybe a delrin or aluminium collar that's bolted to the axles to brace the pinion housing?

Edit - early version: (notice the rectangular cutout in the ring gear)
149421.jpg


Later version: (ring gear cast one piece with the planetary pinholes and bearing mount)
149897.jpg


Oh shoot, something else I just noticed: the early version appears to be helical cut, and the later version comes either helical or straight cut. You've got to make sure you've got the right pinion for the job...
 
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Hmmmmm now that's interesting. I believe I have the earlier version diffs with that rectangle cut out. That looks REALLY familiar anyway. I used to have a Mammoth ST and I believe used one of the diffs from it, I'm pretty sure it had the rectangle cut out and NOT the newer solid ring gear because it did match what I had in the truck already.

Of course, on the XF / XF2 axles, the weakest point (IMO) is the pinion gear and the total lack of stiffness in that area. It walks away from the ring gear and slips. Supporting this area would be a good idea... maybe a delrin or aluminium collar that's bolted to the axles to brace the pinion housing?

I think you hit the nail on the head with this comment. I think this is EXACTLY where my issue is. The axle housing flexes enough to allow the gear mesh the get sloppy. Then with a little power applied at this moment the gears just start shredding and it's too late then.
 
I think I was wrong earlier: the earlier ST seems to have come with the early diff. I found some evidence to that while I was searching for those images (and went to my old standby). My ST came with the later style, and I've been buying up some of the newest style from the XST / MMT 'cause the bevel diff is more sensitive to diff oil.

I have a million projects on the go and in planning stages, but I should really look into building something to toughen up the XF axles. Mine hasn't had troubles, but my crawish is slow and my nitro barely gets used.

If you need some diff parts, let me know. I may be able to help you out.
 
Nope, nothing new. It's just been sitting in the RC garage. I have some things I'd like to change and I'd like to get it out in this 12"+ of snow we have but just zero time lately.
 
i just bought the body 2 days ago and ordered the front axle yesterday. It should be in in a few days. I cant afford everything at once, but will start a build thread when the parts start flowing in. Hopefully, they are as beefy as they look. As far as the width, the chevy body is 10 1/2 inches wide and the axles are 15 inches wide. I want my rig to sit low like a savage or something for better COG. I also plan on running a Summit transmission. Heard that they are pretty tough and it switches from low to high gear. Seems like you have been messing with yours for quite a while, so im sure i will be hitting you up for some advice!
 
As soon as you get the front axle in get some pics of it sitting under the body. What wheels and tires are you using? I think those axles should hold up to some punishment. They look pretty beefy.

As for the summit transmission, it's the way to go. I got the 3905 maxx trans which is the same thing then I put the wide range 1st gear in it. It has some insane reduction and torque.
 
Awesome truck, I am currently building a large tuber, and your electronics have me very interested. I watched your build awhile ago before I decided to build a large scale, I was just wondering how your esc motor combo has been for you. How are your temps and runtimes? It looks like my finished truck will be around the 30lbs. mark. Do you think the combo our running would handle the weight? Thanks, -Adam
 
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