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SCX6 CLOD - DUAL BRUSHLESS - 35lb MEGA RIG!!

doh! well egg on me -- sorry Neil! 😵‍💫😳 Not sure where or why I thought he had passed..... weird. What's that phenomenon called - - Mandela Effect ? lol I dunno

Anyways -- Clodbeatie still up and running like a CHAMP!! Full brushless -- I calculated the Wattage to horspower conversion --- each motor is up to 1500 Watts on 5s --- totaling 4 horspower output capability!!! A POWERFUL BEAST MACHINE!!!

I did finally break a TTR CVD at the output cup --- got wrapped around a sappling and just kept hitting it, (didnt' realize I was wrapped) tire couldn't spin but motor said GOOO!!!

I have 6 sets of spares of RC4WD XVD's for the Clodbuster -- I thought they were identical in design but there ARE slight differences. Still compatabile though. I was able to ONLY replace the drive cup and keep the axle shaft inside the axle tubes untouched. So it was a quick repair thankfully.

The cup is actualy slightly SMALLER in size, but actually stronger and a better design -- they shrank the cylinder that carries the cup holding pin and therefore the still ball that the cylinder slides into is THICKER beefier, and that's what failed on my TTR CVD -- the ball exploded inside the cup because its thin wall,, because the cylinder that holds the drive pin is thick, and the set screw is large. Now on the XCD the set screw is smaller and so the cycllinder can be smaller diameter, allowing the ball to be beefier (because the hole in the ball for the cylinder is narrower there's more metal even though the ball is overall smaller outside diameter than TTR CVD. I was worried when I first looked at it, "oh know why'd they SHRINK this stuff?". But after investigating closely I could see why --- only concern is that smaller set screw strips out on your smaller tool more easily --- be sure to use HEAT and release any loc-tite before pulling that set screw because if you strip it out, OH MAN I dunno where from there. Its the only drawback I can see honestly.... and its worth it to get stronger parts at function for sure.

Because the ball is beefier towards the inside (ie the hole in it for the cylinder/set-screw/pin is smaller maybe 2mm instead of 3mm) it can still be smaller from the outside diameter, the cup can also now be be smaller to fit the smaller ball inside it, and the ball can be smaller, increasing turning radious a wee bit. Also the pin on the drive cup is 1/2mm thicker, from 2mm to 2.5mm, and the pin on the wheel side that drives the 17mm wheel lug is also 1/2mm thicker, from 2.5mm to 3mm pin. VERY COOL IMPROVEMENTS thank you RC4WD!!!!

Its been holding up fine since repair. Been putting miles on and just tired of trying to make vids -- its been time to just enjoy. SNOW VIDS soon I hope!!

Started a new thread tonight in BIG RIGS ---- I want a proper looking big Ford rig long bed..... CEN BABY!!!!


I noticed the CEN F450 KG1 has a wheelbase that is only 9mm different than the 1/8th Cross RC EMO X4 Jeep Gladiator...... I don't like the CEN chassis and dually setup, but how bout as a dedicated ROCK CRAWLER / OFF ROADER instead? Because I LOVE LOVE LOVE the look of that F450 body --- thinking with some honcking 2.2 Rock Crushers!!!! Oh yeah!! 😜
 
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Many thanks!! Was a good time for sure!!!!

That's a MEGA look right there Ferp baby!! Love it. I bet it floated right across on top of the snow with those big bublblers lol!!

I need to make me a set of steel tire chains -- thinking of using beefie 2mm stock chain from Amazon for hanging light fixtures.... Just need a easier way taking them on/off. The cost of a back-up set of 40 series tires/wheels is dumb, but i'm considering it, then I can just always have a set chained and ready to go..... its go the torque to turn them -- i'm pretty sure of that. After doing the math I need something like 25ft worth of chain :eek:
 
That's a MEGA look right there Ferp baby!! Love it. I bet it floated right across on top of the snow with those big bublblers lol!!
its tiny compared to yours only 1/2" wheel spacers and 7.5" tall tires and about a 4" longer wheel base and tamiya juggernaut body
ya it floats on snow and it floats on water too lol
 
Got more snow today and had another EPIC run... this rig just puts a MASSIVE grin on my face --- hauls hauls hauls!!! Should have been videoing is all I can say -- EPIC and UNSTOPPABLE!!! Hopefully tomorrow i'll get it back out and vid. The snow underneath has hardened ALOT and so now its all choppy and bumpy and on top its getting POWERY DEEP again so the rig just articulates thru all this deep fluffy but hard underneath snow rarely getting stuck ---- LOVE it and LOOKS COOL. Chains would really up the game to next level I think...... so....

Chains on order!!! Nabbed 100 feet of 2mm bar-thickness criss-cross style chain --- i've previously used this hanging larges stained glass wall decor that were pretty heavy --- this should hold up and because its 90 degree cross angle it should have a bunch of BITE in the snow and dirt.

I worked out about 45-50 feet needed to make a set of 4 for 8.5 inch tall / 2.8inch wide Rock Crushers.... hoping to make 2 sets one for each of the big trucks.....

Will take a hot minute to make these as it doesn't bend/hook up nearly as easily as the smaller chains for the CEN F450.... I had those done in a single afternoon.

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Chains roll should get deliver tonight gonna work on this weekend.. . here's last snow vid without them!!!

Off course its supposed to warm up and stop snowing here in the next week.... :(

 
Oh yeah!!! These chains are complete BEEF!!! Got 4 sets made today and installed! Love 'em! I had messed around getting one of them all tied up in the centers with bungess/wire cords and ya know what ----- its ENTIRELY not even necessary from what I can tell.

No runs on them yet but they drive around the garage just fine!!! I'm leaving them loose --- they seem to stay on and in place with no issue and i'm thinking the grip with them loose and flopping slightly on top of the tire is going to creat ALOT more grip.

I LOVE LOVE how they are looking --- awesome sauce gnarly!!! Not that hard to make them either -- have over 60 feet left over so def making a set of the TRX4 Supersizer rig too!!

Pics below with one of the larger/wider standard 2.2 tire they make for comparison -- with its smaller chains as well for chain size comparison. The 2.2 is 150mm tall or about 5.75inches.

Each link is 2mm thick steel and about 1inch long x 5/16ths inch wide, with twin 90degree rotated loops -- making it really GNARLY for grip! I can't recall if it was galvanized or stainless, I think the galvanized was a few more $ so I skipped. Each round of the tire face is 18.25 inches and each over-tire strap is 5.25 inches for a total of about 70 inches of chain used per tire. I only did 6 straps over each tire --- could have gone 9 straps going every other link instead of every 3rd link - but the chains are getting heavy already which is a concern for an already 35lb rig believe it or not lol!

As is each finished chain weighs a little over 8oz so adding 1lb up front and 1lb out back total.

Hopefully can get a decent vid out tomorrow but some of the snow is melting today :(

PICS below are against an 8 INCH RULER hope it helps for scale!!! Also if you look at the copper chains around the back bumper for comparison sake those are 1/10 scale tire chains like you get when you buy the generic chain kit for a TRX4 on eBay/Ali etc.... These 1/5th scale chains are HUUUGGEE!!!

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Still tearin' up terrain while most peops are sitting inside tiwttling thumbs dreamin of transmissions that could have been lol.... jk!

Actually wore out a rear knuckle bearing today I noticed --- those are Hot Racing upgraded HD Aluminium knuckles that take larger than stock bearings to endure a little extra load.

I can't be mad at Fast Eddy, his bearing faired pretty well all things considered, plenty of miles, water, snow, bashing, weight, rescues, hauls, pulls, rock crawls, all with one of the HEAVIES and WIDEST RC CRAWLERS on the web..... 18 inch track width and a solid 55mm axle extension (lol that's per side!) --- just can't expect the bearing to last forever once the seal fails. Of course don't blame HR either -- their bearing would probably be fine at 15x6x5. I had swapped to 15x8x5 to get the larger RC4WD XVD 8mm shafts in there, otherwise axle GO SNAPPY!! Smaller bearing balls though can't take the side load. :(

Its a pretty quick fix (provided the bearing race comes out w/out a fight, taking odds lol?) and I have a few spare bearings still, guess I'll be nabbing a few more backups!

 
Well so, I got the SCX6 transmission and 8mm bore driveshafts --- holy BEEF batman. This stuff if MASSIVE, HEAVY, SOLID, BEEF.

Just pure BEEF. I'll get some pics up soon of the SCX6 trans next to the TRX4 trans. I'm a tad befuddled, I mean I new it would be HUGE (thank you Ferp420 for prepping me) but its HUUUUGGE.

Fitment, um, yeah. Not even too sure. Tricky to say the least. I thought I might just drop it in pretty & quick. Ah, No. No chance. I've stripped the entire center section, I may have to keep stripping down. Fitment is not clear at all, I think I need a straight piece of steel some kind of floating cross-member on top of the chassis rails. We'll see. I have a maybe idea right now.

As for the TRX4 trans... diagnosis,, you won't believe me if I told you. NOTHING is broken. NOTHING. It's perfectly in tact.

The only issue was the flat spot on my 5mm motor shaft --- its a DIY flat point for the M4 set-screw to grab a hold of -- and its not perfectly flat at all cuz how do you make a flat spot on hardened steel 5mm shaft w/out good tools!?! LOL iirc I think I used a basic metal file ---- it didn't turn out great. And the set screw came loose and the pinion began walking down shaft and as soon as a small enough amount of pinion gear was contacting the spur gear --- teeth slippage. Surprisingly both the pinion and spur gear teeth look REALLY good still as I think it just pushed the pinion so far down it was barely contacting when it slipped and started failing.

So, I could have cleaned up the motor shaft and put on a new flat spot, or started over with a new 5mm motor shaft and just made a good clean new one ---- and put it all back together and still been on TRX4 trans no problem.

But alas, this giant hunk of metal is sitting here staring at me...... also ordered a 5065 motor with 8mm shaft to go with.

So i'm retiring the TRX4 trans once and for all and committing to getting the 3lb SCX6 hunk of heap mounted in there. I also got the billet Clutch delete system for the SCX6 trans --- looking at the setup i'm glad I did that now -- can see this clutch system eventually slipping just like the TRX4.

In the meantime I took the foams out the tires -- holy cow each foam had SOOO much water in it --- 13.5ounces on average per foam. Each tire and wheel with tire, wheel, chain, and 13.5oz foam was weighing in at 49ounces!!! PER CORNER!!!! That's around 12lbs in wheels and tires!!! Too much after I pulled them and squeezed the water out they weighed half as much. I also sealed the holes in the wheels so no more sopping foams going forward!!!

Pics and a build vid soon....... Once I get the SCX6 trans in and running maybe I can THRASH it ALOT better without constantly waiting for the next failure point!
 
Blew out the knuckle bearings again in the front, other than that am about to try a THRASH on 6s with it....

I have an idea -- the bearings are 8x15x5's to accomodate the beefie 8mm RC4WD XVD's shafts.... and the area between those Hot Racing HD Knuckles is 18mm from the inner side of the inner bearing to the outer side of the outer bearing --- meaning there's 8mm between the bearings unused. The bore happens to be 13mm in there.

I"m going to start with two 8x13x4mm bearings in that middle section of the knuckle to give extra bearings for the shaft to ride and press on --- this should reduce the load a tad on the 15mm bearings already there. If I still get failures I plan to bore out the middles section and increase the bearing size maybe all the way up to 15mm as needed.

I actually think the 15's are very close to withstanding the weight --- only the fronts have failed so far --- and the truck is heavily weight to the front so that makes some sense, also the steering probably introduces additional strain that another 8mm of inner bearing width to ride on should actually help.

I was gonna bore out the knuckle to take 8x16x5mm bearings but also, I think the outer of the knuckle is too narrow and wont leave much material -- likely would just shear the bearing straight out at some point and take the small amount of aluminum ring that's left holding it along --- destroying the knuckle entirely.

Will do some pics if I can work it out!! I tore apart the front axle case while I was in there and upgraded to the RC4WD XVD's and finally retired my TTR CVD's --- those were extremely similar in design with just minor changes when RC4WD took it over --- I think both minor changes are improvements but remains to be seen -- I did notice a lot of play in for the ball in the cup, up/down, almost like the ball is now undersized but the cup didn't change in size, its just slightly more shallow to the smaller ball is all. I tried pairing an RC4WD Ball into the cup of a TTR and it goes in to far and while it works, it ate the inner collar of the RC4WD Ball and doesn't get full lock steering at two phases of the rotation. So no they are not compatible long term.

The RC4WD also moved away from the step down shaft section in the middle -- IE its FULL thickness all the way down the shaft to the cup -- no narrow section --- LIKE THAT alot! Never did understand the narrow section other than to save some metal, reduce weight? idk.

Anyways I think the smaller but more dense/robust ball for the RC4WD will be better than the bigger ball of the TTR because the bigger ball came with a larger inner pin-retaining cylinder, meaning the ball had a larger hole with it -- making it weaker.

In 15yrs of running the TTR's, my only failure finally happened at 35lbs ripping it hard in the woods and indeed a front ball exploded inside the cup..... sheared apart into several pieces.

Maybe the RC4WD Ball with smaller hole holds up better, I just don't like the play, it allows the pin to go up and down almost 1 full mm, that alot of play, hope it doesn't wear badly now that i'll have the proper depth RC4WD ball cups installed, steering should better, stop squeaking so much now too.

New vid soon once its fixed up --- looks like mudder vids are coming next as the snow is melting and warmer weather has been hitting! Keeping the chains goin for now, and got these rigs' chains fixed up like the other Big Rig, nine full chain strips/passes across the treads instead of just six!
 
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Changing routes here.... I think I can do a better solution -- rather than bearing-up the existing Hot Racing HD Knuckles - going to create a set of my own GIANT KNUCKLES.

Why not, right? It actually looks easy enough to be honest -- there's not much to C-hub based knuckles when you boil it down.

I bought Aluminum tube 6063 - 30mm O.D. x 20mm I.D. The Integy C-hub axle for the knuckle is 30mm top to bottom, i'll need to chamfer just a half mm if its to match the Hot Racing knuckles exactly -- that's easy enough.

I'll cut the tube to match the width of the Hot Racing knuckles, about 31mm, and I bought a 22mm steel drill bit ---- and found MASSIVE bearings that should really hold up nicely --- 8mm ID x 22mm OD x 7mm Width. I definitely can fit two in there and with about 5-7mm inbetween them i'll have the same axle riding width as the currently HR knuckles. I just need to bore out the 20mm ID of the tube for those bearings to fit.

Then I plan to use 1/16th inch steel tabs to mount the steering arms to the tubes --- and voila, a 4mm hole on top and bottom and I have a knuckle. If I can get the 22mm hole bored to a depth of 21mm in the 20mm tube ---- lol ---- that's a lot --- I can fit three of those bearings in there and that's a MASSIVE improvement in bearing carrying capacity from two x 8x15x5 as the current HR knuckle is.

This should settle the knuckle issue one and for all. If I trash one, rebuilding a new one should really be all that hard to do. I'll have plenty of tube stock I got 2 x 200mm and really only need 125mm to make a set of 4.

Will post some pics as they come along and once done!!! If all else fails, going back to just adding more bearings inside the middle section of the HR Knuckles so I can at least get some upgrade to how it is now. It held up all summer and most of winter before both front left and right eventually failed. I WAY overdrove the latest failure and began to eat into the knuckle a bit on the inside :( May as well replace with $30 in parts that I can make myself with a WAYYY bigger weight capacity than another $75 for a set of 4 more Hot Racing versions where I have to also buy the bearings separate because the HR's come with bearings for 6mm driveshafts, not 8mm driveshafts (eye roll! lol)

Thanks for listening!!!
 
Now that I have imgur pretty well figured, def will get progress pics!!

If I can get them done and working right (new knuckles), I might just haul both BIG rigs on down to BEAT THE CREEK this year in Maysville KY -- is about 4 1/2 hr drive --- could just put up in the back of the Subie for a few days, pitch a tent, etc. I've roughed it on the road snowboarding before (lol been a few years), no biggie.

But where the heck do you charge your lipos oh duh i'm so dumb... I have ASTRO FLIGHT Lithium charrer and power inverter source from 2005 days.... just banana clip to the car battery easy enough -- I forget these things at times lol. Golly I'm so tempted to bring the rigs down there!!! Also love that I barely have to leave the sanctity of OHIO (no offense rest of country, I just like it here)
 
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They sure don't look pretty!!! But they fit and they are going to work so far!!!

All that's left is figure out how to attached the steering arms/elbows to the knuckles -- for that I plan to use Alumi-Weld and then 16th inch steel strips on top and on bottom of the alum elbow with M4's holding it in place like a sandwich.

I wasted time gnarling out a bunch of material from one of the rear knuckles that I didn't need to -- since they don't have to steer/turn -- argh!!! LOL.

The bearings are HUGE and hold the axle completely straight once the knuckle is on -- NO PLAY whatsoever. There was A LOT of play in the old bearings I think they were just too small for the job at hand with a 35lb rig sitting on 'em....

22x8x7 bearings -- stepping up from 15x8x5......


Able to get about the same spread as when the 15mm bearings were in there -- these bearings are wider so space in the middle is smaller... I almost could fit three bearings inside the knuckle but alas 2mm shy!!!

Cut to 31mm wide, same as the Hot Racings...

Drill, drill, and more drill!! As cheap junk as a drill press gets!!!! Just barely works but got the job done!

Bearings fit..... sort of! LOL just kidding they fit real nice actually sans for the messy start at the mouth....

And the back side -- 10mm between bearing and tabs that will get mounting holes for fitting in the C-hubs. I didn't actually have to do more cutting for the rears since they don't steer/turn.

And four almost finished products, Hot Racing onces there for comparison!!! Rudimentary, but should be effective if I can get the steering arms mounting solid!!!
 
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