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yeti wheels
- Thread starter bonosxr
- Start date
BobTeagle
Quarry Creeper
That would be awesome! If no trouble..
BobTeagle
Quarry Creeper
I rcvd my Thunder Tiger MT4 G3 wheels and Axial Krawlers today. They work amazingly like they were made for the tire. perfect fit on the bead.
They also have a perfect offset. looks to be 1 to 2mm wider than stock which will help the stability w/o affecting the look.
The BF Krawler and mt4 wheel on right, and Yeti XL raceline wheels and Falken tire on left
They also have a perfect offset. looks to be 1 to 2mm wider than stock which will help the stability w/o affecting the look.
The BF Krawler and mt4 wheel on right, and Yeti XL raceline wheels and Falken tire on left
Priv Joker
Rock Stacker
So i am waiting for my kit to arrive and am wondering should i order the thunder tiger wheels or use the kit wheels. I think they both look fine. I just would like to start out with the better wheel for now.
BobTeagle
Quarry Creeper
Hard to give advice here. Time will tell if the MT4 wheels hold up on this rig.. It is heavy at 20lb! But my team associated rival has the same wheels and it weighs 18lb.. I have been running 6s on the Rival for over a year and no issues with the wheels.
My Yeti XL kit wheel stripped out on 4s with very light driving..
I like the looks of the stock kit wheels better, but a little RIT dye would black out the MT4 wheel rings nicely..
Priv Joker
Rock Stacker
Well it will probably be a few weeks till i need the wheels while i build the kit so i am looking forward to your experience with them[emoji2]
I'm looking for a new set of wheels for my Yeti XL and I noticed you mentioned that the Proline F-11 wheels and the RC4wd mudslingers fit well, is that right? WIth the F-11 wheels, you don't have any problems with the front wheels scraping the body at full turn?
Thanks!
I put through about 20 mins on my MT4 wheels and the rear is already starting to warp where the hex sits in the hub.. Plastic still isn't strong enough.
I've pretty much driven mine around the yard babying it and it keeps breaking something. This was the most hyped/exciting RC purchase I made and waited for, but it literally sits in the garage broken because I can't be bothered.
I've stopped posting on the forums due to no interest, but I thought I'd chime in on the wheels since I received an email notification of the thread being revived.
I've pretty much driven mine around the yard babying it and it keeps breaking something. This was the most hyped/exciting RC purchase I made and waited for, but it literally sits in the garage broken because I can't be bothered.
I've stopped posting on the forums due to no interest, but I thought I'd chime in on the wheels since I received an email notification of the thread being revived.
Hot racing is coming out with a hub to fix that for the kit version just like the make for the rtr. I personally don't have that problem I use a socket and ratchet to tighten the bolts then put a second bolt on and also loc tight
Sent from a galaxy far far away
Sent from a galaxy far far away
Fordfreak95
Rock Crawler
The Proline F-11 wheels are top notch and you will NOT strip a hex. I ran them with my +6mm hexes that I bored to fit the 8mm hexes. I don't know what they are like with stock hexes. The mud slingers have no business on a yeti xl...WAY too heavy!! Now I run MT-4 wheels and RC4wd Mickey Thompson tires. Much lighter I like them a lot. I've had zero hex issues with my MT-4 wheels and I'm on 6s and she's heavy. I run zero drag brakes, and 80% punch control.
I hear ya. I've had some of the same feelings about this one. Don't want to turn this into a rant but I will mention that I was surprised how many/how easily things break for a $500 kit (I only do 4s and don't abuse it).
But now that I have a new slipper, new front body mount, aluminum steering linkage, and a new set of wheels, I;m ready to actually run this thing!
That's a good idea - a second bolt and even a bit of threadlock. I'll give it a shot!
Good to know that the mudslingers are too heavy. I'd heard that before, but thought I might get away with it with lightweight wheels since I don't do 6s and run a small-ish pinion for trailing.
You mentioned that you like the RC4wd Mickey Thompsons - do you have any first hand/confirmed knowledge that they fit on Proline F-11's?
Here's a quick weight comparison:
RC4WD Mickey Thompson - 12.6oz (360g) per tire
RC4WD Mud Slingers - 16oz (453g) each tire
RC4WD Rok Lox - 15.5 oz (439 g) per tire
Axial 3.8 Falken Wildpeak - ?????? couldn't find it but I'd love to know!!!
I see that the Mickey Thompson's are about 14.5 mm taller and 15.5 mm wider than stock. Do you notice a pretty significant difference in handling or ground clearance?
At the moment I'm sold on the wheels but not sure about the tires.
Do you know if the Rok Lox will fit? Seems like I read that someone said they rubbed at full steer? For trailing, I'd love to have the extra ground clearance if I could make it work!
Thanks a lot for the ips and info :mrgreen:
Just for fun, here's trailer for my YouTube channel, which has my Yeti XL at a few points....look at 1:35...I do have my tires taped, but that front wheel is pancaking because it was coming unglued!
https://youtu.be/-IzsdgxyaQY
Last edited:
Trifish
Pebble Pounder
Here are the weights I got with the Mickey Thompson- MTZ on a MT-4 wheel and the Stock RTR tire set up. I assume the Wildpeaks are close in wt to the RTR. Not sure how well the MTZ's will fit the F-11's. There is a significant ground clearance difference with no sacrifice in handling. IMO.
View attachment 328808
Trifish
Pebble Pounder
Fordfreak95
Rock Crawler
I wouldn't mount these to F-11 wheels. Side wall is real thin on these and the F-11 doesn't have a lip to hold the bead while gluing.
Thes tires are just great all around in my opinion. I haven't read one bad review on them.
thisispaul
Newbie
Try proline desperado 3.8" wheels, cut the inner side a bit and it fits fine, the quality are much better than stock wheels. I've stripped three stock wheels, had lots fun with desperado fitted. Remember use thread lock as wheels hex design problem, fall off too often
iPhone Tapatalk
iPhone Tapatalk
Fordfreak95
Rock Crawler
Try proline desperado 3.8" wheels, cut the inner side a bit and it fits fine, the quality are much better than stock wheels. I've stripped three stock wheels, had lots fun with desperado fitted. Remember use thread lock as wheels hex design problem, fall off too often
iPhone Tapatalk
This is a VERY good idea for stock tires. You should make a thread showing this so others can do the same. I never even thought of doing that!!
.........but still, the RC4WD Mickeys may not like this..they need that extra lip that the stock Axial wheels have and the TT MT-4 wheels have. The side walls are real thin so the tire can "flex" going over stuff.
Hey guys, I’m coming back to this thread after baking the tires off the stock wheels and reglueing them onto the Team Associated Rival Monster Truck Wheels (Part #: 25767) as suggested in this forum by BobTeagle and others.
I made a video of my Yeti XL Wheel upgrade for my Youtube channel, please check it out and feel free to sub while you’re there "thumbsup"
https://youtu.be/MRY4tMf0kFM
In the video I mention that everything I know about the ins and outs of Yeti XL wheels came from the knowledgeable folks in this forum, so thanks to everyone who gave me pointers in this and other Yeti XL threads!
I also mention the flaw in Axial’s design where the wheel nut comes loose, causing the hex to round out the inside of the wheel, and that this can be prevented this by using a “real” wrench to torque down the wheel nut, doubling up the wheel nuts, and even using a drop of threadlock. It’s been my experience that as long as those wheel nuts stay tight, the stock wheels will last, but for those that round out the stock wheels like I did before I found this thread, these Team Associated Rival Wheels aren’t a bad option!
I made a video of my Yeti XL Wheel upgrade for my Youtube channel, please check it out and feel free to sub while you’re there "thumbsup"
https://youtu.be/MRY4tMf0kFM
In the video I mention that everything I know about the ins and outs of Yeti XL wheels came from the knowledgeable folks in this forum, so thanks to everyone who gave me pointers in this and other Yeti XL threads!
I also mention the flaw in Axial’s design where the wheel nut comes loose, causing the hex to round out the inside of the wheel, and that this can be prevented this by using a “real” wrench to torque down the wheel nut, doubling up the wheel nuts, and even using a drop of threadlock. It’s been my experience that as long as those wheel nuts stay tight, the stock wheels will last, but for those that round out the stock wheels like I did before I found this thread, these Team Associated Rival Wheels aren’t a bad option!
