Why IFS Bomber and not heightened Yeti?

[Antsiranean]

Interesting video, now I know what torque twist is...

Bussen back to the original question: what is it that makes an IFS Bomber superior to the Yeti? svt923 claims it "jumps better, flies better, lands better, soaks up the terrain better" which is certainly true, but why? What is it in the geometry that accounts for all that? Even more nimble and quicker? I don't get it.

Thinking of buying a Yeti from scratch up (by a hundred mail orders), maybe I should do an IFS Bomber instead. Might not be that much more expensive than a upgraded Yetithat way. Which I by the way understand is an expensive way of building a car, but it would be a very long lasting and challenging project and therefore maybe worth the extra expense to Mr.

 

[DavidH]

Interesting video, now I know what torque twist is...

Torque twist can be tamed with sway bars and shock preloading, but can't be eliminated, unless you want to convert to IRS, such as with the Bomber B2B or my Yeti IRS project.

Bussen back to the original question: what is it that makes an IFS Bomber superior to the Yeti? svt923 claims it "jumps better, flies better, lands better, soaks up the terrain better" which is certainly true,

Certainly claimed to be true. 8)

but why? What is it in the geometry that accounts for all that? Even more nimble and quicker? I don't get it.

Neither do I, but then this is the internet where things are right or wrong, black or white, cut and dry, and completely self-evident to those making the claim. ;-)

But seriously, while I think of the stock bomber as a good choice for a crawler and trails truck, what is best for anyone depends on where and how they use it.

I do find it strange, in the case of the B1B, how the same parts forming the same suspension with the same geometry but with two different bodies/pans creates one truck that is derided - even hated - and another is somehow faster with the same drivetrain and more nimble with its higher CoG. I guess I’ll have to wait to see the video of this truck in action. :shrug:

Since my yeti is my only active rig at this time, I put a low-mass body on it, and went to the local crawling spot; 52.7 km/h on the GPS for a top speed, and it still crawls well enough without overheating the factory sensorless motor-esc combo. Other than the spur (and rusted slipper plates) and the rtr servo, I've not had any breakage, but then I don't drive it like it is an arrma stunt truck.

The suspension on these vehicles (like all vehicles) is about compromise. For example, if you watch my video, you can see where the truck lifts the inside wheels on deceleration into corners, due to the putty in the front diffs, a handling vs traction compromise.

Thinking of buying a Yeti from scratch up (by a hundred mail orders), maybe I should do an IFS Bomber instead. Might not be that much more expensive than a upgraded Yetithat way. Which I by the way understand is an expensive way of building a car, but it would be a very long lasting and challenging project and therefore maybe worth the extra expense to Mr.

I think your money could be better spent buying a bomber or a yeti, and getting an idea of what you want to do with it (speed/trails/crawling) and the build from there, but it depends on your situation. The kits are a better way to go cost wise, if you have all of your electronics already sorted out, which I did not. I’ve built many kits, but I went the RTR (yeti) route this time as it allowed me to get back into the hobby and take my time getting familiar with the new motor/esc/battery technologies on the market, while having a truck on the ground and getting outdoors with my son and his truck. YMMV.

Good luck with your search.

 

[slowmethinks]

slowmethinks, when you say Bomber, do you refer to a "plain" Bomber or a B1B? And why did you hate the Yeti?

I have both plain and B1B. I recommend the plain to start with. Incredibly capable.

The Yeti was too fast. It sucks at climbing. And it isn't as realistic. I enjoy the realism of the Bomber. I like watching it articulate. My two biggest gripes with the Bomber though are the servo/horn and the dog bone axles.

 

[CoolRunning]

I agree. My stuff has all been RTR apart from the second hand modded Yeti. I have had hardly any issues. I simply wanted to get going and enjoying the hobby with my 7yo and have fun. The learning came as I read and it quickly made sense. Building a truck is a great idea but contrary to many reports, it's probably not needed if you pick a good truck and have some mechanical sympathy ultimately. You can always mod as you go too.

My son was really hard on his SCX10 and I had to put in steel gearbox gears and homemade lower links and now MIPs but apart from minor things, all the trucks have been going like champs.

My Yeti has stock axle housings and my Bombers old servo and it's been underwater and bashed and crashed and runs great. It needs some expensive shocks to jump but I don't want my son jumping it anyway and the quickest way to stop him is have it land on its nose or roof after a jump which pulls him instantly up. Racing the Rock Rey, it's been drag raced ad nauseam and just laps it up.

It sounds like you want a Yeti so whack some 5.8" XL G8 Super Swampers and 2speed in a RTR Yeti kit, add some VP lower links and the cheaper VP branded links, plus alloy knuckles and carriers, plus HD gears front/back and you most likely have a great truck.

Otherwise, get the Yeti kit, put in a sensored brushless system, forget the 2 speed for the moment, add the alloy knuckles and carriers and the XL G8 Swampers and enjoy. Add the 2 speed when you want and you'll have a killer truck.

Get some thick kids bouncing putty ($7) and stuff it into the front diffcup. It'll lock it so it'll crawl well and it won't break the front end anywhere near as quickly as it'll allow a small amount of movement when it needs to move (a crash or roll etc).

I think your money could be better spent buying a bomber or a yeti, and getting an idea of what you want to do with it (speed/trails/crawling) and the build from there, but it depends on your situation. The kits are a better way to go cost wise, if you have all of your electronics already sorted out, which I did not. I’ve built many kits, but I went the RTR (yeti) route this time as it allowed me to get back into the hobby and take my time getting familiar with the new motor/esc/battery technologies on the market, while having a truck on the ground and getting outdoors with my son and his truck. YMMV.

Good luck with your search.

 

[Brake Weight]

This has me thinking about my neglected Yeti 380. I have a spare locked diff I can put in the front and some assorted shocks to raise the height. I just need some bigger tires and a smaller pinion to slow it down some or swap to a lower kV motor. Remove the rear sway bar and/or even four link the rear.

 

[Antsiranean]

I do find it strange, in the case of the B1B, how the same parts forming the same suspension with the same geometry but with two different bodies/pans creates one truck that is derided - even hated - and another is somehow faster with the same drivetrain and more nimble with its higher CoG. I guess I’ll have to wait to see the video of this truck in action. :shrug:

Thanks, I get why I don't get it...

I will go the Yeti route, once I have raised the money and convinced my wife. Looking at a bunch of videos of both trucks, I feel pretty confident the Yeti will do fine around where I live. I would like the kit, since I would enjoy building it, but that would mean paying for upgrades that I later would need to upgrade anyway, like the trailing arms. But that's really an economical question and not the topic at hand.

 

[Antsiranean]

It sounds like you want a Yeti so whack some 5.8" XL G8 Super Swampers and 2speed in a RTR Yeti kit, add some VP lower links and the cheaper VP branded links, plus alloy knuckles and carriers, plus HD gears front/back and you most likely have a great truck.

Otherwise, get the Yeti kit, put in a sensored brushless system, forget the 2 speed for the moment, add the alloy knuckles and carriers and the XL G8 Swampers and enjoy. Add the 2 speed when you want and you'll have a killer truck.

Get some thick kids bouncing putty ($7) and stuff it into the front diffcup. It'll lock it so it'll crawl well and it won't break the front end anywhere near as quickly as it'll allow a small amount of movement when it needs to move (a crash or roll etc).

You got me right. Thanks for the quick recipe, I will certainly count on it. And look into the Rock Rey, which looks like a serious contender to the Yeti. Yet another discussion...

 

[Brake Weight]

I'm going to give it a try with my Yeti 380 and a locked front diff. I pulled the trigger for stiffer springs and a set of Duratrax Deepwoods. I've got a 3670 2650kV I'll give a go with or with a 3650 2000kV to get it even slower if need be. The stock ESC has decent drag brake settings that should suffice...temps pending.

 

[turbodan13]

I'm going to give it a try with my Yeti 380 and a locked front diff. I pulled the trigger for stiffer springs and a set of Duratrax Deepwoods. I've got a 3670 2650kV I'll give a go with or with a 3650 2000kV to get it even slower if need be. The stock ESC has decent drag brake settings that should suffice...temps pending.

Before you rigidly lock the front diff, try the putty method or a high viscosity silicon diff oil. As you read through the Yeti board, you'll see a frequent occurrence of bent/broken dogbones with locked front diffs. Does one lead to the other? No one's proven or disproven it, but it seems to happen too frequently to not be possibly related. Also, locking the front diff makes the turning radius even worse than it already is.

I'm running an 11lb Yeti, Pro4 4000kv & MMP on 3S, with the 2spd, and an open diff w/ 1-million cst silicon oil (it's the consistency of E6000, just as sticky, but doesn't harden). It's "solid & locked" enough to give gobs of traction, but will break free & allow a wheel to spin at the absolute last limit & avoid damaging the driveline.

 

[Brake Weight]

Good to know. I just order d some CVDs for the front of my Exo and I may just put those on the Yeti instead then. But I'm hoping to slow it down tremendously and make it crawl.

 

[84yoda]

You got me right. Thanks for the quick recipe, I will certainly count on it. And look into the Rock Rey, which looks like a serious contender to the Yeti. Yet another discussion...

Go with the RR over the yeti. Such a better rig and platform.

Good to know. I just order d some CVDs for the front of my Exo and I may just put those on the Yeti instead then. But I'm hoping to slow it down tremendously and make it crawl.

I think if your going for a straight up 380 crawler, you should be fine locking the front. Its the speed and huge jumps with a locked front breaking shafts. Or try the racers edge diff lock, its putty that doesn't dry out, I really like it in my RR.

 

[Brake Weight]

I've got dedicated crawlers and my Exo for go fast. The Yeti never sees any action and it's mainly just a test to see for myself. I ordered Wraith 2.47# 14x70 springs for the front in hopes it'll provide some lift and travel vs the 4.something 14x54 stock springs. The rear should be fine cranked down with some preload and the sway bar disconnected. Then the 150mm tall tires for additional ground clearance.

 

[turbodan13]

I took the Yeti through all 10 trails/1500 gates at Axialfest, and it was perfectly capable of everything thrown at it. Well, everything except the slide! The Yeti does have a few shortcomings, but they can be handled with driving skill. Ultimately though, I saw where a solid axle rig had a distinct advantage. As much of a blast as it is to drive, I'm currently building a Bomber to add to the stable.

In the end we're still just playing with toy trucks, so run what makes your bunnies jump!

 

[Brake Weight]

I didn't realize this was in the Bomber section since it came across my Tapatalk feed.