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Which SCX10 ii? Raw Builders Kit, Cherokee Kit or RTR

Can make the RBK surpass the TK with SSDs own parts easily for cheaper then the TK itself though.

Hmm, care to elaborate? Just the front axle and transmission alone + RBK would make it more expensive than the TK and that’s excluding shocks, the scale motor/fuel cell, drive shafts, and superior links.

The 10.2 can definitely be made into a heck of a rig though. No arguing that, just saying there is good value in the TK assuming one wants the scale transmission.
 
Hmm, care to elaborate? Just the front axle and transmission alone + RBK would make it more expensive than the TK and that’s excluding shocks, the scale motor/fuel cell, drive shafts, and superior links.



The 10.2 can definitely be made into a heck of a rig though. No arguing that, just saying there is good value in the TK assuming one wants the scale transmission.

Buy the heavier axle housings, overdrive gears, brass knuckles, stainless lower links etc and you'd be better off with the RBK to start.

Not saying the TK is a bad value, I'm saying if your plan is to upgrade it, the RBK is a better base to begin with, throwing away less money. I run brass links and chubs also for example with the lower stainless links and adjustable shock mounts all around with big bores. My RBK is now built like an ultra TK, would have wasted a ton more money if I started with the TK.

I love the scale transmission, in fact it's practically required for my local comp, but I'm not convinced it's placement with the battery stuffed in the back performs better then the standard SCX10.2 setup.

I'd rather toss the crap Axial shocks in favor of TRX4 or even big bores over the SSD shocks, just my preference not to throw more money away then I need too.

I'll reiterate, the TK is a fantastic truck, unless you're upgrading beyond it and replacing all those expensive parts to begin with.
 
Buy the heavier axle housings, overdrive gears, brass knuckles, stainless lower links etc and you'd be better off with the RBK to start.

Not saying the TK is a bad value, I'm saying if your plan is to upgrade it, the RBK is a better base to begin with, throwing away less money. I run brass links and chubs also for example with the lower stainless links and adjustable shock mounts all around with big bores. My RBK is now built like an ultra TK, would have wasted a ton more money if I started with the TK.

I love the scale transmission, in fact it's practically required for my local comp, but I'm not convinced it's placement with the battery stuffed in the back performs better then the standard SCX10.2 setup.

I'd rather toss the crap Axial shocks in favor of TRX4 or even big bores over the SSD shocks, just my preference not to throw more money away then I need too.

I'll reiterate, the TK is a fantastic truck, unless you're upgrading beyond it and replacing all those expensive parts to begin with.

I appreciate you elaborating, and fair points. I agree that the TK transmission is arguably more for scale and not as much for performance almost strictly because of the battery placement. If one isn’t interested in the transmission then I agree the RBK is great option.

I left this out of my last post, but my 10.2 Cherokee kit build with the ssd goodies, samix battery tray, and a lot of what you mentioned in your post, climbs better than my trail king. The TK ain’t far behind but the 10.2 has the vertical advantage.

Case and point I haven’t hit this line in my TK yet, but have hit it in the 10.2 JK, a trx4 (heavily modified), and the trx10.2. Hoping to get the TK up this line some time this spring as I continue to tinker with it and try a lighter battery.

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I definitely don't detract from the TK in any way at all.

I think SSD has nailed the affordable aftermarket goodies, I'm pretty well addicted to their products and only look elsewhere when they don't have what I need.

Price vs performance can't be beat.

All I'm saying is that for MY needs, the TK didn't and won't really ever make sense, I WILL replace what it comes with, with SSD's own better performing parts, and what they don't offer, I get from another company.

It's a fantastic truck and a great value, if you leave it alone, something I'm incapable of doing.
 
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I get what you are saying but in my opinion the trans on the TK is part of the performance and balance of the rig. The quality of the parts is the other half. You can upgrade the TK further but it really isn't necessary. The SBK is terrible out of the box and requires upgrades to steering immediately. Shocks are typical Axial crap, and it flops at the slightest sidehill even in good tires and foams. If money is the issue a GS02 Komodo/BOM or TRX sport is far superior. Going to upgrade my 10.2 more for balance but only reason I have it is for Axialfest at this point. Another pro for the TK is the ability to have a full and deep interior. I like to be scale. I full expect a 10.3 soon.

Sent from my Moto G (5) Plus using Tapatalk
 
I get what you are saying but in my opinion the trans on the TK is part of the performance and balance of the rig. The quality of the parts is the other half. You can upgrade the TK further but it really isn't necessary. The SBK is terrible out of the box and requires upgrades to steering immediately. Shocks are typical Axial crap, and it flops at the slightest sidehill even in good tires and foams. If money is the issue a GS02 Komodo/BOM or TRX sport is far superior. Going to upgrade my 10.2 more for balance but only reason I have it is for Axialfest at this point. Another pro for the TK is the ability to have a full and deep interior. I like to be scale. I full expect a 10.3 soon.

Sent from my Moto G (5) Plus using Tapatalk
Agreed, as I said previously...

It's a fantastic truck and a great value, if you leave it alone, something I'm incapable of doing.
 
I was able to get the RBK driving under it's own power yesterday.

Shimming the drivelines .30mm helped the R&P's quite a bit. Other things that were changed right from the start was a metal servo horn and I flipped the 3 upper link ends at the skid plate to avoid interfering/binding with the lower links.

So far, I'm happy the way it operates and am looking forward to getting a body installed.

y4m9sStN_HoqVuqji8lb4TGwno8atr2fCfXKtGCubxxG6Iy-_5DzpJGEIal1mYYIgNyMWJH8pbouBWOIXnHgHUO8ZUDm4-tHYCJmOScGT0nc8dJL-sv4ctcSc51u3Qrt8uHFUrz-VN5l7QMBw1swmPRuoBDuv3lNIhPqnDtu67QYJHYCXYo35_psBDdIW9v77U-o8dUTDzlPlmarehuZzA3VA
 
Don't forget to enable freewheeling on your 1080. NOT the default setting.

What exactly does freewheeling do? I read about it but didn't quite understand.

Progress Update: I'm still continuing to fine tune the SCX10 ii and loving it. The Proline '85 Toyota SR5 Hilux body is now being fitted and painted. The body was listed as a 12.3" wheelbase. Using the recommended body mount hole locations and lining up the front axle to the fender arches, shortening the WB to 12" made it spot on. The tires on it right now are listed as 4.25" and those will be changed out for 4.19's to be compliant with Class 1. So far, I'm really happy with it.

12" wheelbase, 4.25" tires, 1.9 wheels
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Testing at Pacific RC Arts. Pictured with my son's ECX Barrage Sumo Samurai running RC4WD 1.55 Mud Thrashers.
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Lookin' good!

There are in-depth threads here on Freewheeling theory, but in a nutshell, what it has done for me is make my rig silky smooth to the trigger when inching down steep inclines slower than a snail, where there's lots of good traction. No herky-jerky.

Made the dragbrake adjustment and it does work well. Descending down grades was really smooth and steady.

My progress:

The Proline Toyota '85 SR5 Hilux body was painted and turned out ok. I'm still learning the paint process and would like to buy another body and try it again in drier, less humid weather.

For wheels and tires, I bought the wheels off of Amazon. They were cheap ($39.99) but are round, beadlocks and effective. I especially like that they are period correct of wheels that were available in the late '80's and early '90's. The tires are Proline BFG KM3 Class 1 4.19" in the K8 compound. With the weight of the metal wheels over plastic, added hardware and new tires, the net gain was 7.45 oz of unsprung weight to the truck. The truck now weighs 5.25 pounds and acts very predictable as I am learning to drive it.

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