• Welcome to RCCrawler Forums.

    It looks like you're enjoying RCCrawler's Forums but haven't created an account yet. Why not take a minute to register for your own free account now? As a member you get free access to all of our forums and posts plus the ability to post your own messages, communicate directly with other members, and much more. Register now!

    Already a member? Login at the top of this page to stop seeing this message.

Which is better CVD's or straight axle in rear?

Nova's Ark

Tire&Foam Extraordinaire
Subscribed Member
Joined
Jun 4, 2007
Messages
5,614
Location
C.I. Compound, Tyler, Texas
Which is better, CVD's or straight axles in the rear?
I have the Fat Rock axle C's, RCP TLT CVD's, and JP Customs aluminum Steering knuckles in the front. I have a second set of aluminum knuckles for the rear but don't want to use them unless I have to. I would like to go straight axle. I like the beefiness of the CVD's.

Does anybody know if you can run CVD's with the RC4WD Straight axle adapter for TLT?

Are the CVD's stronger then the straight axles?

Thank you for any help and input.
 
I don't know which ones are stonger, CVD's or straights, but the CVD's will work with the RC4WD Straight axle adapter.

With the straight axle adapter and stock axles, I'm currently not breaking them. I'm killin the fronts! 5 stubs in two days!! :x Just ordered CVD's for the front. We'll see how long the stockers hold up in the rear with the CVD's up front.
 
CVDs are the only way to go."thumbsup" If your using the offset CVD hexes there is no way you can get the back to match the front width with straight axles.
 
So CVD's will work with the straight axle aluminum mounts?
Is that correct?

I had not thought about the off set difference, Thanks for the heads up on that. So what do you recommend, build the rear tlt axle the same as the front?

Thanks for the input so far.
 
Last edited:
Yes, they are the same length, front and rear. Dosn't matter how its set up, knuckles or straight adapter, the axle shaft is still the same length.
Try shooting the seller of the straight axle a question about the link brackets.
 
Width is the problem with the RC4WD staight axle kit for the rear. You can't match it up!!

You can use the CVD's with the rear lockout, or just use the stock with the lockout. Unimoger has widners that will get you the same as the front width with the longer stub axles.

If you have the money. Go CVD's all the way. If not, then CVD's in the front for sure. Work on the rear later!!
 
Yeah before nationals ill be putting cvds in my 2.2 rig. Ive got rc4wd straight axles to fo in the rear. Ill have to find wideners thatll set it about the same width.
 
Width is the problem with the RC4WD staight axle kit for the rear. You can't match it up!!

You can use the CVD's with the rear lockout, or just use the stock with the lockout. Unimoger has widners that will get you the same as the front width with the longer stub axles.

If you have the money. Go CVD's all the way. If not, then CVD's in the front for sure. Work on the rear later!!

Thank you so much for the info and suggestions. I have learned that it is always better to be patient and build it right the first time and spend a little extra money up front. If you cheap out and don't spend the extra up front, the part will fail at the worst possible moment and end up costing more time, inconvenience and frustration in the long run.

With that said, I am definitely buying a second set of CVD's for the rear.

Now which straight axle ends should I buy, the ones linked to on ebay or the ones from RC4WD?
 
Ebay ones improve your ground clearance by a larger margin then the rc4wd ones. It's also been rumored that the rc4wd ones are not long enough causing the drive pins to bend when the wheel is over tightened. The quality on those ebay ones are amazing, very precise.
 
I too have the ebay versions and it is fair to say the pictures do not show the true quality of the items. He is also a great guy to deal with, mine came all the way to the UK without a hitch.

heavyD"thumbsup"
 
Heavy D and Mnster thank you for the advice. I will be buying the ebay ones today and ordering a second set of CVD's to use in the rear later in the week.
 
Mine are the RC4WD ones, and I've not had a bit of problems out of them. I didn't know about the ones on Ebay when I bought mine. The ones on Ebay do offer more ground clearance than the RC4WD units. I personally don't think you can go wrong with either.
 
just saw this after leaving the bay, sorry, I bought the last 2 sets:-(

Yeah I just saw that!!!!! I was waiting to get home from work to buy it now and now they are gone! :cry::cry::cry::cry:

Oh well, it's cool8). I will have to wait and get the next set."thumbsup"

Let me know how you like them once you receive them. They look really nice.
 
Yeah I just saw that!!!!! I was waiting to get home from work to buy it now and now they are gone! :cry::cry::cry::cry:

Oh well, it's cool8). I will have to wait and get the next set."thumbsup"

Let me know how you like them once you receive them. They look really nice.

sorry bout that, and will do, cant wait to get them, they will put the rear axle centered in the wheelhouse, it's a little forward right now
 
I have the RC4WD straight stubs on the rear with the G-Made 1" wideners and the TLT CVD's up front with the G-Made wideners. I just drilled out the front wideners to fit the CVD's shaft. Works so far. Have to use a longer screw with the MSD wheels. Using the screws from the clodbuster, top steering knuckle screws.
 
I'm running the RC4WD straight adapters on the rear axle, with CVD's. I run my front trackwidth 1/2" wider than the rear, helps the rear track correctly when turning, and helps to slide around those tight gates easier."thumbsup"8)
 
Back
Top