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Which is better CVD's or straight axle in rear?
- Thread starter Nova's Ark
- Start date
Same here!! Works out really well. Basically the same set up on the 1:1; front is about 4" wider than the rear.
"thumbsup""thumbsup"
65BAJA
Quarry Creeper
What I gather from reading this thread is that the straight axle adapters make the rear axle stock width? So if I want to make the rear end the same width as the front with tg10 stubs then I need some kind of spacer? Or has something changed since this thread was started?
I haven't messed with my crawler since February so I'm a little behind the times.
I haven't messed with my crawler since February so I'm a little behind the times.
jhtoy
Quarry Creeper
I run the rc4wd straight axle adapters on the rear of my rig with the tg10 stub shafts.For spacers I use 4 of the little brass/bronze? bushings that come in the tlt kit.1 small,1 large one.Fills the gap perfectly.I would like to get a set of cvds for the front and the straight axle for the rear but didn't realize that the track width would be off.I see the cvds that rcp offers come with 2 sets of hexes to adjust track width but i guess without some sort of widener for the rear axle i would have to keep it narrow?Time to do a little searching........
Rockpiledriver
I wanna be Dave
You guys have a couple of options if you want the front and rear to be exactly the same width, and want the increased steering angle the cvd's offer. First is obvious, run CVD's front and rear. As far as I know they work with all of the straight axle adapters on the market right now.
The second option would be to order some G-made wideners for the rear, then with a lathe cut those and the barrel nut down to match the front. With the cost of the wideners, the stainless straight axle, combined the fact that you only need 2 wideners but have to order 4, and the difficulty in modifying the G-made wideners with simple tools, It may be cheaper (definately easier) to run CVD's on both axles.
Hope that helps.
The second option would be to order some G-made wideners for the rear, then with a lathe cut those and the barrel nut down to match the front. With the cost of the wideners, the stainless straight axle, combined the fact that you only need 2 wideners but have to order 4, and the difficulty in modifying the G-made wideners with simple tools, It may be cheaper (definately easier) to run CVD's on both axles.
Hope that helps.
