What the #$&@?! Flysky gt3c and ae-2 issue

[rustneversleeps]

End points (forward and reverse) are set at 100%. Ch2 is set to rev (I've tried it in normal with no better results). I have re-bind the rx to the tx and tried re calibration with the same result. To be clear when you say 3 beep method you are referring to the instructions for the ae2 you linked, right? Hold full forward when you turn on esc (green light flashes and it beeps), once red light starts flashing and it is beeping hold full reverse until you get a sequence of tones then let trigger return to neutral, it gives another sequence of tones and then it is done.

Yes the 3 beep method is for the AE-2 instructions here.If this doesn't work this way i don't know what else it could be.It worked for me

http://docs.axialracing.com/instruc...59-i001_-_AE-2_ESC_Instructions_and_Specs.pdf

 

[TacoCrawler]

I have 3 FS GT3-C TX's
Never had issue binding my ae2 or br/xl.

I did have to reverse the ch2 tho'

Could be defective...

But I'll put my money on an improper calibration set up of the ESC.

 

[rustneversleeps]

Ya maybe the motor wires are not jiving with reversing channel 2..

 

[jebster]

I have 3 FS GT3-C TX's
Never had issue binding my ae2 or br/xl.

I did have to reverse the ch2 tho'

Could be defective...

But I'll put my money on an improper calibration set up of the ESC.

I agree the esc isn't getting calibrated correctly but I think the root cause is a defective tx. that is why I'm hoping someone can do the experiment with their gt3c of hooking up a servo to ch2 and see how much rotation they get with the trigger. on mine the servo barely turns, which indicates I'm not getting full forward or reverse and that would hamper calibration.

I can go through the same calibration sequence with my traxxas system no issue.

 

[TacoCrawler]

One of my GT3-C TX's is set to...

--- Ch 2 ---

Reverse

DR 100%

End Points F/R = 110 / 85 % (my preference)

Expo 20% (my preference)

But I believe the Expo and EPA F/R need be set to their max when calibrating the ESC.

Then dial those settings back on the TX after set up for your particular likes.
But only after the ESC has been calibrated.

I think your problem may be in the fact that your Ch2 Expo is set to 0
and that is limiting the full potential of the ESC and possibly not allowing for its proper calibration.

If you do limit things on the TX... it should occur after initial ESC calibration.

I'm just guessing... 'cuz it's not in my hands.

Try that before assuming the TX is to blame.

The Traxxas radio is not the same as a FS GT3-C

 

[jebster]

One of my GT3-C TX's is set to...

--- Ch 2 ---

Reverse

DR 100%

End Points F/R = 110 / 85 % (my preference)

Expo 20% (my preference)

But I believe the Expo and EPA F/R need be set to their max when calibrating the ESC.

Then dial those settings back on the TX after set up for your particular likes.
But only after the ESC has been calibrated.

I think your problem may be in the fact that your Ch2 Expo is set to 0
and that is limiting the full potential of the ESC and possibly not allowing for its proper calibration.

If you do limit things on the TX... it should occur after initial ESC calibration.

I'm just guessing... 'cuz it's not in my hands.

Try that before assuming the TX is to blame.

The Traxxas radio is not the same as a FS GT3-C

I'll give the expo setting change a try. I will admit that would be the opposite setting for expo from what I'm use to. On my mt4 a zero setting gives a linear response while a positive or negative value increases or decreases the throttle response curve, respectively.
And I agree this is not the same as the traxxas radio, which is why I wanted to make the change.
I'll post up when I have a chance to try it with the adjusted setting.

 

[jebster]

Tried setting the expo to the max value and then doing the calibration. No joy. Same result.

So, unless someone can think of anything I'm doing wrong I believe I've narrowed this down to something with the tx itself.

I would like it if someone could do a test to confirm. If you plug a servo into ch2 and see how much rotation you get that would be the final answer for me

 

[TacoCrawler]

If it's still under warranty send it back, exchange - refund.

If it were new... the TX/RX should have come bound.

It's possible you got a dud... it does happen
but weirder yet that no one on that coast has offered their assistance.

Maybe post up in yer local area folder and see if someone steps forward with an assist ?

If you were on my coast I'd wish to rule out some e components
and swap some of my e components to be able to ascertain if in fact it were the fault of the TX or something else.

I'll put my servo in ch2 shortly
but I'm purdy sure the servo's EPA will be what my Tx adjusts the servo's EPA's to.
^ too much effort because I'd have reprogram my BEC voltage or come up with an external voltage source.
call me lazy... but if I did... bet my TX works as I say it would.

Are you're sure you are saving your TX programming changes after selecting them ?

You have to push down on the wheel to input the program settings selected.
If the END button were pushed instead... the settings are not saved.

Just saying 'cuz I know those GT3-C user instructions aren't the best and can be confusing in some cases.

 

[jebster]

If it's still under warranty send it back, exchange - refund.

If it were new... the TX/RX should have come bound.

It's possible you got a dud... it does happen
but weirder yet that no one on that coast has offered their assistance.

Maybe post up in yer local area folder and see if someone steps forward with an assist ?

If you were on my coast I'd wish to rule out some e components
and swap some of my e components to be able to ascertain if in fact it were the fault of the TX or something else.

I'll put my servo in ch2 shortly
but I'm purdy sure the servo's EPA will be what my Tx adjusts the servo's EPA's to.
^ too much effort because I'd have reprogram my BEC voltage or come up with an external voltage source.
call me lazy... but if I did... bet my TX works as I say it would.

Are you're sure you are saving your TX programming changes after selecting them ?

You have to push down on the wheel to input the program settings selected.
If the END button were pushed instead... the settings are not saved.

Just saying 'cuz I know those GT3-C user instructions aren't the best and can be confusing in some cases.

thanks for the response. I did run into the issue of not saving the settings when I first got the gt3c (it is not intuitive) but learned my lesson and know how to get things set up now.
I got this radio in trade so no warrantee or return options for me. previous owner didn't mention an issue, although they didn't mention the momentary switch issue on the wheel either so I'm not sure they would have disclosed a problem with the trigger if they had known about it.

I think I just have a bum tx, or at least the ch2 trigger has an issue (since the other channels appear to be working fine). may just have to bite the bullet and buy a new system and take my chances. I already invested in a lot of rx's.

 

[TacoCrawler]

quite possible your ch2 is faulty.
Tho it could be a faulty RX as well.

On two out of three of mine...
it's the input wheel pressure switch is what failed.

LosiKidd sells a replacement pressure switch for that.

I changed both of mine that failed.
One I manged to correctly install... the other was a failed attempt/repair.

Seems easy to do using LosiKidd's instructional video...
But wasn't as simple as he made that look.
tho' I managed to repair one TX the other is useless except for spare parts.

When the GT3-C works... it's a decent radio for its cost...
But when failure occurs... it is disappointing no doubt.

Granted... a new GT3-C can be purchased for less then $ 50.00 new.
So tho' I purchased used once...
I will only purchase a new GT3-C from this day forward.
'cuz ya never know what you're getting or how it was used-abused by the PO

There are more reliable TX's to be obtained...
but not at the equivalent low buck cost of the GT3-C.

So if money spent is of no concern... buy a higher quality system.

ie: Sanwa/Airtronics - Futaba etc.

That said...

I like my GT3-C's when they work.

 

[jebster]

quite possible your ch2 is faulty.
Tho it could be a faulty RX as well.

On two out of three of mine...
it's the input wheel pressure switch is what failed.

LosiKidd sells a replacement pressure switch for that.

I changed both of mine that failed.
One I manged to correctly install... the other was a failed attempt/repair.

Seems easy to do using LosiKidd's instructional video...
But wasn't as simple as he made that look.
tho' I managed to repair one TX the other is useless except for spare parts.

When the GT3-C works... it's a decent radio for its cost...
But when failure occurs... it is disappointing no doubt.

Granted... a new GT3-C can be purchased for less then $ 50.00 new.
So tho' I purchased used once...
I will only purchase a new GT3-C from this day forward.
'cuz ya never know what you're getting or how it was used-abused by the PO

There are more reliable TX's to be obtained...
but not at the equivalent low buck cost of the GT3-C.

So if money spent is of no concern... buy a higher quality system.

ie: Sanwa/Airtronics - Futaba etc.

That said...

I like my GT3-C's when they work.

Given I'm getting the same result with different rx's I've come to terms with the fact something is wrong with ch2 on the tx. Hate to buy another system but as long as that works it will still be cheaper than going over to sanwa. I do have an mt4 system I use with my comp rigs and anything needing 3 or 4 channels that have to be tuned. I wanted the flysky system for my other rigs. Plus it has more programming options than the traxxas tq system and the rx's for flysky are smaller and cheaper. Hell, I'll have invested less in the flysky system and 5 rx's, including a new tx, than a single mt4 4ch rx (ok, I am accounting for the fact I got the gt3c in a trade).

Hope I have better luck with the new tx. At least I'll have spares (screen, battery, etc) "thumbsup"

 

[Hydrocarbon92]

It sounds like the pot in the trigger is shorting to ground. This would create a voltage divider, meaning full throttle is read as half or less the voltage it should read and therefor barely turns a servo. If not a short, it's likely a problem with the pot or internal electronics with the same end result. My own GT3C works as expected when I change dual rates or expo, I actually run my Wraith at 65% because it has so much steering.